Huffy beach cruiser needs front shocks

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by djtucker06, Sep 3, 2016.

  1. djtucker06

    djtucker06 New Member

    I just bought a 26" Mens Huffy Santa fe beach cruiser, I would like to put a new front fork on the front, one that will provide some shock abortion on the bike. I'am brand new at this kind of thing, so I do not know, which one out of many that will work. My budget is about $100

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  2. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    You need to know which steerer diameter (goggle it) you have, which headset type you have or want to get, and the length of your head tube (or head tube and headset if you are keeping it).

    Later you need to choose a stem that will fit if you cannot use the present one.

    I recommend watching a lot of items on an auction site and being prepared to let a lot of items go until you get the uncommonly good deal, because good reliable suspension fork technology is expensive.
    But if you have a 1" steerer diameter which it looks like in the pictire, then you can only use the extremely basic forks and only a very few with reasonable stiffness* and damping. These will just take more time to find.

    *For goodness sake don't get an old set of yellow Rockshox EDIT : Indy SL! :eek:
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2016
  3. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

  4. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    Id like to find a decent set of suspension forks.... I had a suspension fork off a huffy that worked but not well....

    Probably something under 50$ since I've overspent on everything else:)

    I don't cares about looks just something that should take a 50mph beating:p

    It would be for a 50's jc Higgins
    I think it's a 1 1/8 steerer tube.... I'll need to double check on measurements
  5. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    A 1950's frame is not going to be made for a 1&1/8' steerer fork BUT the Retro Ryder converter that is discussed in the forum I linked could be the solution! Then you won't be limited to really old Marzocchi MX etc and can use slightly newer old Marzocchi Bombers instead! :)
    Marzocchi Bombers were and are considered too heavy by a lot of people so if you are prepared to take your time you could "snipe" a good deal and get basically a motorcycle fork that's made to fit a bicycle, for peanuts. :)
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2016
  6. Frankfort MB's

    Frankfort MB's Well-Known Member

    It takes a 1in fork just checked.... Thanks for your help!
  7. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    You got me checking for forks on fleabay now danmit. I don't need any more ©£%& forks!
    I'm meant to be looking for rim tape. :rolleyes:

    These are nice! 1" steerer and a half decent fork. :) An air sprung model but soo much stiffer than most of the older 1" stuff that you can find now.
    162190286447 but that's UK fleabay so just an example.

    I would rather get a headest converter and have the dirt jumper 3 fork 222238611471
    or this Z1 dropoff instead 222238619361 which probably just needs some new seals and oil. I have the QR version of those. :D

    Oh yeah rim tape.. I am thinking about velocity veloplugs instead. Haven't tried them yet.
  8. JunkyardDog

    JunkyardDog Active Member

    I had a set of Rockshox Judy TT on a Specialized hardtail and loved them. The problem you are going to run into is the difference between a real bike (from a bike shop) and a toy bike (Walmart) The components are not compatible. The steering heads are different, the bearings are different, and the stems are different. Cheap bikes like Huffy use a "quill" stem which is not compatible with the aheadset design on a real bike. You might be able to use front forks from a Huffy mountain bike.
  9. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Good points!

    I will have to edit my post: It was a yellow Rockshox Indy SL that my brother had on his Spesh' Rockhopper hardtail, used to flex sideways in corners so badly that the rim would rub one or other of the pads and the brakes could be seen bending over to the side following the rim. Judy might be what he upgraded it to.

    I agree a nice new aheadset is required to switch from threaded headset to threadless aheadset, including removing the old cups and pressing the new cups into the frame's head tube.
    That Retro Ryder (and scroll down)
    aheadset looks like the best option though, since so many more and better used forks are available in 1&1/8" steerer diameter. :)
    A new clamp-on aheadset stem is also required, to tension the threadless aheadset; but those don't have to be expensive (fleabay etc).

    I think it's worth it to be getting a stem that has no welds, since the welds on a Walmart bike stem might not be the best thing to bet your face/life on. Clamp on mtb stems are usually without welds now though some light ones are still welded. I haven't specifically been looking for 1" ones.
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2016
  10. Jonj57

    Jonj57 Active Member

    Currently in the same boat and trying to fit a shock into the tube, after a bit of research I found that old bmx bikes had 1 in races that fit the 1 1/8th tubes and am waiting on a taiga bmx headset to come in now, if this works should be 15 bucks for a working adapter instead of 45+shipping
  11. FurryOnTheInside

    FurryOnTheInside Well-Known Member

    Got a link?? ;) ;)

    Also remember that there are two 1" head tube standards. Japanese and old cruiser. Japanese has so little room it is unlikely to have an adapter headset. Check your frame against the measurements listed on atomiccycles
  12. Jonj57

    Jonj57 Active Member

    japanese is like 27mm or something like that, cruisers are 32 and a half I believe... waiting for a caliper in the mail to get some real hands on info.