Huffy Nel Lusso Safe?

[CrazyDan]

Or just buy a better bike to start with.

Much cheaper to start on a bike that already has good parts. Don't build on a big chain store bike, it'll initially cost less but you'll be swapping out parts and it'll eventually cost more.

 

[Navrothian]

Fender victim here - please don't add them to your build.

 

[CrazyDan]

Downhill fenders are good.

 

[Javohn Dyer]

I've got the bike all put together finally, but I have tons of problems. The back wheel is locking along with the engine, the throttle doesn't turn all the way and moves as well, and the fuel line (the thing that goes into the fuel filter) leaks constantly. I have no idea what to do, and feel this has become a massive waste of money. Do motor cycle/ motor shops know how to fix these kinds of things?

 

[Javohn Dyer]

So comming back to this bike with a bit of precautionary info, a friend has this Nel lusso that was motorized and so far the rear wheel has failed twice. The bearings I think he said failed the first time, and now again. This bike uses a coaster brake but that is being removed entirely for starters because the hub has failed again and I don't trust it, and it's kinda pointless once you have front and rear v brakes.. Here's a shot of the bearing failure on the coaster brake arm side.
View attachment 77097 View attachment 77096
Don't mind the fact that the sprocket isn't centered, the chain broke shortly beforehand, being that the bearings were out of whack and the wheel was litteraly jiggling in the dropout so that will screw stuff up.

Second part I would say is a safety concern is the major one which I discovered while working on rebuilding the wheel with a new hub, apparently the flanges on these hubs aren't part of the hub, but are a ring that's pressed in place on the outside of each end of the tube that makes the guff of the hub. View attachment 77098 View attachment 77099

While I was removing spokes, which isn't a hard thing to do, requiring little muscle, the flange litteraly just lopped off!!

I sure that is the side that held the large drive sprocket, so I guess with all the extra force on the spokes (good thing they used 12 gauge spokes for stock I might add) must have pulled outward on the flange enough to make/stretch it slightly larger so it could simply come off.

Now I kind of have a problem with the fact that flange, which holds the wheel f***ing together, can be simply disconnected from the hub just by introducing a rag joint to the wheel...

As a standard, for now on when it comes to me personally building a bike, I would replace the rear wheel on this bike immediately before going further into motorizing it, and I'll also check other bike's hubs as well, if it looks like they are using a pressed on flange then it gets chucked if it's aluminum, and welded if it's steel, even then it's still probably best to chuck it regardless. That's a design that doesn't even require a motor to cause destruction, simply time can do that by putting tension on the flange.

She's together, but she's a dead bike. I hope maybe I can sell it, nothings going right on it. Unless perhaps you guys could help me get her fixed?

 

[Frankenstein]

I've got the bike all put together finally, but I have tons of problems. The back wheel is locking along with the engine, the throttle doesn't turn all the way and moves as well, and the fuel line (the thing that goes into the fuel filter) leaks constantly. I have no idea what to do, and feel this has become a massive waste of money. Do motor cycle/ motor shops know how to fix these kinds of things?

Locking wheel is either a failing coaster brake (expect this to happen with these huffys apparently) or your chain is too loose and you're getting it bound up in the clutch arm/drive gear cover.

You need you check your throttle linkage carefully, if you are pinching the throttle cable housing or have the carb barrel installed wrong it can make it have a short pull. Just check everything closely and find out what part is preventing full movement.

The fuel line is found online or at some auto stores, pretty sure I saw autozone or the other one have 3/16 inch silicone tubing for stuff like lawnmowers. That silicone type won't leak and lasts almost forever.

If you wanted to build on a better bike that might be ideal if you don't want to invest in a new rear wheel. As kc tries to say "it's easier to build on a higher quality right off the bat." I probably paraphrased that.

If you're lucky the motorcycle shop guy will touch it, I wouldn't bet on it though unless he's really interested in that stuff.

If you aren't willing to set time aside for repairing these things on your own you might be better off not owning one unless you're willing to pay somebody to maintain it, which will occur often enough that it will feel like a waste of money.

 

[Javohn Dyer]

Locking wheel is either a failing coaster brake (expect this to happen with these huffys apparently) or your chain is too loose and you're getting it bound up in the clutch arm/drive gear cover.

You need you check your throttle linkage carefully, if you are pinching the throttle cable housing or have the carb barrel installed wrong it can make it have a short pull. Just check everything closely and find out what part is preventing full movement.

The fuel line is found online or at some auto stores, pretty sure I saw autozone or the other one have 3/16 inch silicone tubing for stuff like lawnmowers. That silicone type won't leak and lasts almost forever.

If you wanted to build on a better bike that might be ideal if you don't want to invest in a new rear wheel. As kc tries to say "it's easier to build on a higher quality right off the bat." I probably paraphrased that.

If you're lucky the motorcycle shop guy will touch it, I wouldn't bet on it though unless he's really interested in that stuff.

If you aren't willing to set time aside for repairing these things on your own you might be better off not owning one unless you're willing to pay somebody to maintain it, which will occur often enough that it will feel like a waste of money.

I'm just super frustrated, have been working on the bike for 3 months now and been unable to ride it. Is there a way to post video and picture to make help from you guys easier?

 

[Baconator101]

I'm just super frustrated, have been working on the bike for 3 months now and been unable to ride it. Is there a way to post video and picture to make help from you guys easier?

Like Frankenstein says, these things take up time, more time for beginners. If you can't spare time, then it's probably gonna spend alot of time collecting dust. I consider myself a seasoned newbie.

 

[Javohn Dyer]

Alright, I've got the engine mounted and the chain for the engine is tightened perfectly the engine starts as well . I still haven't found a solution for the throttle cord only turning so far nor a sufficient way to mount the throttle mounts to prevent them from sliding. Could any one provide some pictures or video as aid?

Oh, btw, the original bicycle chain is popping and a tad loose, are there anyways to remedy this? I can likely provide further explanation that will benefit the problem solving process if I can get some feed back on possible fixes or problems.

@Frankenstein, @Baconator101, @Photojunky; I noticed you built a nel lusso motorized bike as well, and tips?

 

[Baconator101]

Alright well first of all. If I had those problems I would take care of the most difficult first which is the chain issue. You might need another person to help. Or if you have a center bike stand, that thing is indispensable, pays for itself immediately. The way I adjust the rear chains is this. (I do have a rear coaster brake, and I leave the coaster brake attached for this process, unless I need the rear wheel to come off)
1-Center Stand down
2-Loosen up the chain tensioner
3-Loosen up the TWO axle Nuts
4-Standing behind the bike with the rear wheel loose I grab it and pull on it, one hand on the wheel, one hand on the seat. Or anywhere to keep the whole bike from shifting back from me pulling back on the wheel. Do this and you will get proper tension on your bikes original chain. Once the proper tension is reached, I tighten up only that side of the bike first, not too tight, but just tight enough so it won't slide forward on its own.
5-Now with your pedal chain tightened properly, flip over to your motor chain side. Here your wheel will have a little bit of play because you only tightened one side, your pedal side. Now scoot the left side of your wheel as far back as you can WITHOUT the left side of your tire rubbing the motors chain. For this I suggest keeping your clutch locked so you can rotate the wheel to make sure it is in fact not going to rub on the motor drive chain. Once you've reached as close as you can WITHOUT the chain touching your wheel. Tighten up the left side.
6-Tighten up both Nuts Properly
7-Use motors chain tensioner to reach proper motor chain tension once again. Tighten chain tensioner.