Hydraulic Clutch in a Factory Engine...It's Here !!

Street Ryderz

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Heat and the two dissimilar metals rate of expansion may be an issue but not sure, I wouldn't want to experience a brake fade situation with the clutch, I'm thinking that the bucking bar spinning in the piston's bore will add some heat/friction and that's why Ryan's modified clutch setup has a bearing there, that little ball doesn't do much!
 

Karl Snarl

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It seems the cover is the actual housing incorporating the slave cylinder along with the piston which pushes the clutch shaft directly like the bucking bar normally would. So by rights, the conversion is a simple 'bolt-on' type and if I'm correct, bleeding would be done at the top, where the clutch arm would normally be....
Being a bolt-on conversion, nothing else on the engine is touched, just bolt it up and off you go.....
Looking at it....I like it - the whole concept follows the 'K.I.S.S' approach as there is very little that can go wrong.
The only thing that I can see potentially going wrong is the seal of the slave cylinder failing AND that is a common weak link in almost any hydraulic setup anyways, so as long as the entire system is sealed correctly with good quality parts, then it should be a fool-proof conversion from the traditional cable actuated setup.
You can tell it's not a normal made cover, the channels are offset and part of the hydro-cylinder. The cover is the cylinder. Looks like they just threaded the passages and added a piston with a seal.
 

ratchet.wrench

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Most modern big M/C with Hydraulic clutches use 80 lb clutch springs and over
Hydraulic clutch make it easy to hold the clutch lever with smooth engagement

IMO a hydraulic clutch really isn't necessary on a Cheep CG engine.
I gotta feeling that this Hydraulic Clutch will fail often, now ya gotta spend more money to fix it :LOL:$$

Manual clutch cable can be adjusted. but with hydraulic ya hope it's working right.

I guess that's why they still have the clutch cable adjustment barrel still mounted on the engine (I see it in the pic)

When the Hydraulic clutch don't work right you can buy the manual clutch assembly to fix your clutch :ROFLMAO: $$
Wrench-I bought mine within the first week it was available. Mid March I believe and since then it has taken me to and from work 6 days a week, about a 5 mile round trip. Without fail, let alone adjustment. Maybe I'm just lucky, or maybe those feelings you got are for a different forum idk 🤣
 

ratchet.wrench

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It seems the cover is the actual housing incorporating the slave cylinder along with the piston which pushes the clutch shaft directly like the bucking bar normally would. So by rights, the conversion is a simple 'bolt-on' type and if I'm correct, bleeding would be done at the top, where the clutch arm would normally be....
Being a bolt-on conversion, nothing else on the engine is touched, just bolt it up and off you go.....
Looking at it....I like it - the whole concept follows the 'K.I.S.S' approach as there is very little that can go wrong.
The only thing that I can see potentially going wrong is the seal of the slave cylinder failing AND that is a common weak link in almost any hydraulic setup anyways, so as long as the entire system is sealed correctly with good quality parts, then it should be a fool-proof conversion from the traditional cable actuated setup.
My conversion consist of taking off my hydraulic cover and bolting on the antique one lol then hooking up cable . Same bucking bar . I love it bled it once and that's all. And I'm a fabricator by trade
 

Wrench

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Wrench-I bought mine within the first week it was available. Mid March I believe and since then it has taken me to and from work 6 days a week, about a 5 mile round trip. Without fail, let alone adjustment. Maybe I'm just lucky, or maybe those feelings you got are for a different forum idk 🤣
I'm glad it's working for you.
I guess motorbike parts from China that last for 5 month is quite the accomplishment and something to celebrate

Keep us informed if ya have any problems in the future
 
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