Hyper Crusier/ Zeda case reed build

This build is kinda odd for me. I typically don't start any project with all new parts. Most of my stuff is but with old junk and some new stuff. That's how I picked the screen name.

My last bike (first MB) was fun but had all kinds of problems with the Seeutek. Bearings went, then it broke a ring, next was wrist pin bearing failure that cracked the piston dome and then the final catastrophic lean the took out the entire top end which was caused by a broken carb. The bike itself also had issues with the derailleurs and brakes due to riding in the winter. Needed a repaint as well. Fvck that. This time I'm starting new.

So....
I decided this bike was going to be a single speed cruiser with disc brakes to solve my biggest issues with the bike itself. Hard combo to find. Found the Hyper at Wallmart by chance and it was cheap, real cheap. Comes with coaster brakes. No big deal, I like building rims and this way I can have exactly what I want. Besides the rims The only other things that needed to be changed are the pedals and handle bars. The bars are like 3' wide WTF. With my BMX background platform pedals is all I'll ride. Both of those issues have been taken care of.

For the engine I picked Zeda because a lot of people seem happy with them. Knew I wanted a reed for the power curve and I ended up going overboard and ordering the Zeda 80 case reed and a MZ65 pipe at the same time. Ship date is between 3/14 and 3/21.

Parts acquired so far:

• Single speed disc hubs
• Disc rotors and calipers
• KMC Z510 chain
• ODI grips
• Dual brake lever
• Matching clutch lever
• Narrow 10 sprocket from BMW
  
• CNC throttle

Parts to be ordered:

• Huffy Davidson Lightning Strike CDI
• Disc Drive sprocket adapter and 410 36t sprocket from MBRebel
  
• OZ super magneto
• 12g spokes and nipples
• Double wall rims
• Lighting

Hyper cruiser

• Spare_Parts
• Mar 11, 2018

Start of my new bike build.

New parts

• Spare_Parts
• Mar 11, 2018

 

[Spare_Parts]

I used muggyweld super alloy 5 to "weld" it. It's just solder and flux.

I'll give more info later. Here's a video showing the process.

 

[Spare_Parts]

So the tank is made from aluminum street signs. Not sure what gauge it is but I will check. It's pretty thick which IMO made it easier to work with. The filler neck and cap are for a motorcycle and that came from Amazon but eBay has them. Problem is that it is non vented. I could vent the cab dirt bike style but think I'll vent the tank. The fuel shutoff is 90°, 1/4" npt on tank side and barbs for 1/4" line engine side. I hate the shuoffs with the rubber gasket.

This is how I made the tank.

1. Slid some paperboard down into the frame. It was outside the top and bottom tubes and inside the arched bars. Trased the shape than cut that out. Trimmed until it fit.
2. Marked the outside edge 1/4" smaller than trimmed it again.
   
3. Cut out top, bottom and front pieces the approximate shape wanted. *note* if your tank has pointed sides like mine then your head tube angle dictates the angle between the top and bottom points if you want the side pieces flat. Since the arch and down tube determine the lower points you only have to figure out the top point. Don't worry about the sides yet.
   
4. Once everything fit right transfer the main template to metal. Tape the other paperboard pieces to it and check fit. Once it fits how you like cut the other pieces from metal. I didn't anneal anything.
   
5. Slowly bend your pieces checking fit as you go. The reason to not anneal is if you bend too far you can bend it back some without much if any distortion.
   
6. Tape it together and check fit again.

Now what I did was use the template in the center of the tank. Cut some holes in the top and bottom for even filling. Don't forget to bevel the edges, clean everything with a stainless steel wire brush and get creative with your clamping. Now for the mounts and shutoff I soldered in chunks of 1" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock to have some meat to thread into. After all that I cut the sides.

Sure I'm forgetting something so any questions ask away.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Some more parts came in. 18 tooth freewheel, another 510 chain for the pedal side/ emergency spare, shutoff valve and tap as well as some snap rings for the piston. I want to see how well the snap rings fit. Not a fan of wire circlips.

More parts

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 8, 2018

Ordered Sun MTX39 rims but they won't be here until next week. Ordering DT Swiss spokes and brass nipples soon.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Some more parts came in. 18 tooth freewheel, another 510 chain for the pedal side/ emergency spare, shutoff valve and tap as well as some snap rings for the piston. I want to see how well the snap rings fit. Not a fan of wire circlips.

More parts

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 8, 2018

Ordered Sun MTX39 rims but they won't be here until next week. Ordering DT Swiss spokes and brass nipples soon.

I'm using circlips with the two little holes too, but I had to do a bit of modification to make them able to close enough to fit into the piston.
I have the Z510HX chain too, very nice chain indeed, but I had to do a bit of modification to the front sprocket to get it to fit on. Luckily that also meant that I could choose which side of the sprocket to grind back, and in so doing I could fine tune the alignment with the rear sprocket.
I just removed the Z510HX (1/8") and I'm switching to the X9-93 (11/124") so I'll have to grind the sprocket even narrower. It's all fun though.

 

[Spare_Parts]

I got lucky, the chain fit the drive sprocket. Have to measure the snap rings but they were listed as 0.5mm thick.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I got lucky, the chain fit the drive sprocket. Have to measure the snap rings but they were listed as 0.5mm thick.

Really? Mine are 1mm x 11mm, the same as the stock wire circlips. I had to open up the gap as much as possible to be able to get them in, in fact I had to take a tiny bit off the outside too. Now that they can be put in they're slightly easier to rotate than I wanted (but haven't failed yet). I still think they're better than the wire ones because those were a bit of a struggle to get in and out of the piston. Your tapered holes probably help!

 

[Spare_Parts]

These are 11mm od x 9mm id x 0.5 thick. After work I'll check them and see how they fit a stock piston with the wrist pin. I read how you had to modify yours and i expect to do the same.
I have a deep hatred for the stock clips. Lol.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Ordered the spokes last night. I used this calculator. https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator
Also ordered some axle spacers because all the junk on the rear hub rubs the frame. Just have to decide on nipples now and make the caliper adapters.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Rims came in today and I am more than happy with them. Also set up my chain lines. Came out good but only have 1.5mm clearance between the rotor and the frame.

Ordered a bunch of random parts including the nipples Friday. Bike is getting reallyclose to ride ready.

MTX39

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 16, 2018

MTX39

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 16, 2018
• 1

Rear rotor clearance

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 16, 2018
• 1

With the MB Rebel sprocket adapter I ended up with only 1.5mm clearance!

 

[Spare_Parts]

Well today I worked on the rear caliper mount. It was supposed to be one piece but I screwed up on a cut so it's two pieces..LOL I have to say it pissed me off a few times but that's because it is made of all scrap pieces that were laying around. Was going to work on the front mount but the fender support is in the way and it's too hot to deal with it.

Rear caliper mount

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 17, 2018

Still have to drill and tap the dropouts for a couple of bolts for a more secure mount.

Also got some more stuff in the mail. Headlights came and I think they are a killer deal at $19 from Amazon. Hollow stem bolt and tank vent line also came. Kinda hard to find the bolt since new (as in past 25 years new ) bmx bikes use clamp on.

Headlights

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 17, 2018

Not sure if I'll use both or just one.

Hollow stem bolt and tank vent line

• Spare_Parts
• Jun 17, 2018