I am thinking of a 6.5hp rear drive.

[Steve Best]

Ok, so if you bought the 48cc (or the "80"cc) China Girl, you would have had it installed already (generally less than 3 hrs) with a pretty much assured 30mph top speed, which is about as fast as anyone should go on bicycle rims, tires and brakes. A few simple free engine mods and I was doing 40mph. A $15 sprocket change and I broke 50mph which is WAAAYYY TOOOO FAST ON A BICYCLE.

Man, I'm looking at that 1/2" plate and I'm thinking "WOW, what does THAT weigh?" Hope you don't have to stop on a down hill.

So trying to be helpful, The connecting rod will likely part company if you go much over 5500 rpm on the 212. Floating valves are indeed an effective governor. Good advice from Mark up above.

The China Girl does 6-7000 rpm stock and can be made to run up to 10,000. Mine was able to run at 40mph for a couple hours with no problems other than my nerves and my butt. Too late for that, you have a 212.

Typically we adjust gearing to get cruise speed at max torque and top speed at max revs. This is so you can get up hills. Going down will be easy with that iron plate.

This was a lot less conspicuous and and handles a lot better than being pushed by a wagon. Jus'sayin'.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

What Steve said ^^^

Or make it a powered sidecar leaning side car search FFV8

 

[Deleted member 26224]

He isn't getting anywhere near 55mph with a stock 212 with a $50 tq converter

Lol neither are you

 

[JerboaJohn]

it's a theoretical discussion right now. nobody get their hackles up,,
mounting the engine to cart and frame is the hard part. so much stuff before testing.
he'll find out with the initial gearing where it even starts to get going, then revise the mounting bcs it'll get squirrelly long before the engine revs out.
lay out a plan to motorize the cart and attach cables n cart to frame. get couple sprockets on top of what you have now for when you're ready to start tuning

 

[FNTPuck]

Lol neither are you

Nobody is - thats the point. (??)

 

[bike4life]

Nobody is - thats the point. (??)

Yeah ok so i went above removing the oil sensory check and i have tried to remove the governor. There is that pesky little c clip thing that is holding the gear in place. Ive tried for like 30min trying to remove it and i cant. I hit it with a hammer and screwdriver and the thing just embeds itself deeper into the gear Ive bent the clip thing but it still holds on. I am gonna go back to the grind with that c clamp now. I am also not the strongest person lol.

On a side note. I just finished removing it after i posted it within minutes. Amazing. I was a little dissapointed that when i removed the gear, the c clip thing fell out and disappeared on my shop floor. I KINDA WANTED TO TORTURE THE C CLAMP THING for revenge by either hitting it with my propane torch or melting it with my welder or bringing it to my "guillitine" . Watch the "gullitine" cut a quater in half. In the video it bent it b/c i didnt want to waste a quater. As longs as its somwhat in tact its still legal tender.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

Nobody is - thats the point. (??)

Actually I did. Take your own advice: “Keep your armchair engineering to yourself. Once [your] build is done you are more than welcome to prove yourself in a race - any start speed to any finish speed you want... ...If you are brave enough for a dig run I'll even spot you a few bike lengths to make it fair. If you are not willing to compete and back up your claimed massive wealth of knowledge, then you are nothing more than a keyboard warrior and should just stfu.”-FNTPuck


Shift during torque max then rev out... 18# springs are safe with stock fw/rod. Best to make it a part of the bike. Run only small wheels with the .9 od cvt.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

Yeah ok so i went above removing the oil sensory check and i have tried to remove the governor. There is that pesky little c clip thing that is holding the gear in place. Ive tried for like 30min trying to remove it and i cant. I hit it with a hammer and screwdriver and the thing just embeds itself deeper into the gear Ive bent the clip thing but it still holds on. I am gonna go back to the grind with that c clamp now. I am also not the strongest person lol.

On a side note. I just finished removing it after i posted it within minutes. Amazing. I was a little dissapointed that when i removed the gear, the c clip thing fell out and disappeared on my shop floor. I KINDA WANTED TO TORTURE THE C CLAMP THING for revenge by either hitting it with my propane torch or melting it with my welder or bringing it to my "guillitine" . Watch the "gullitine" cut a quater in half. In the video it bent it b/c i didnt want to waste a quater. As longs as its somwhat in tact its still legal tender.

Did you get the washer out from under the governor gear? Really skinny super thin and fairly precision washer that sticks by hydrolock to the bottom.

 

[FNTPuck]

Actually I did. Take your own advice: “Keep your armchair engineering to yourself. Once [your] build is done you are more than welcome to prove yourself in a race - any start speed to any finish speed you want... ...If you are brave enough for a dig run I'll even spot you a few bike lengths to make it fair. If you are not willing to compete and back up your claimed massive wealth of knowledge, then you are nothing more than a keyboard warrior and should just stfu.”-FNTPuck


Shift during torque max then rev out... 18# springs are safe with stock fw/rod. Best to make it a part of the bike. Run only small wheels with the .9 od cvt.

Do you even read before posting and criticizing???

He wanted to run it STOCK GOVERNOR and with a 13" tire and a $50 30 series clone!!! You are on a much bigger tire, with HD valvesprings, no governor, and still slow LOL. You don't even want to race my chinagirl, let alone my 4stroke.

 

[Deleted member 26224]

Do you even read before posting and criticizing???

He wanted to run it STOCK GOVERNOR and with a 13" tire and a $50 30 series clone!!! You are on a much bigger tire, with HD valvesprings, no governor, and still slow LOL. You don't even want to race my chinagirl, let alone my 4stroke.

Yeah, a stock 212 is a turd that won’t exceed 65 on level ground with me on it. But I’ve actually built 212 bikes, and I speak from my own experience of commuting on them. I don’t get snippets of info from others then pass it off as fact. I’m still waiting for you to show us your 212 builds, or other custom builds NOT from a kit, with or without a cvt.

Have you seen OPs Instagram? He’s a teenager and already on his way to being an excellent fabricator. Instead of getting your panties in a bunch all you had to do was say something like “I don’t even run a new predator without opening it up and taking out the governor it’s that easy” and “but in my opinion making it a pusher is unwise.”

That’s it. It’s obvious that if op doesn’t listen, he will soon learn that 50mph won’t happen.

The 30 series CVTs were designed for minibikes and go karts which typically have small tires in the same range as 10” or 13”. So OP is doing fine so far.