I do a springer

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by williamsk1936@yahoo.com, Nov 27, 2008.

  1. This is stuff from another motorbike site I wanted to share since you are interested in forkin' around. I thought I was going to use my Schwinn clone springer on the Schwinn cruiser with the Gru Bee, but the head tube is too long. I am stubborn and considered doing a leaf spring thing like a 1930's Indian, but decided to cheap off and build probably a better fork with a little engineering and imagination (FUN) Anyhow, here's the artical. I will answer any questions.

    HEY, I think I'm on a roll: I finally found my tiddler shock arms. I suspect they are early Honda or Yamaha 50 units out of a tin fork housing.
    The spring/shock units are 8-1/2" eye-to-eye, 1" dia., and the links are 2-3/4" from anchor point to spring connection and then 2" more to front axle hole. If I turn just about any fork backward and attach the link, it protrudes enough in front of the fork to just about maintain the rake angle perfectly. Since it has a rather thick hole for the axle (1/2") I selected a heavy front axle that had Huffey front axle pegs on it. That makes it long enough to get nuts fully on.
    The fork slot can be drilled to receive the pivot point bolts, that are 3/8", and that means they won't escape the fork slot. Additionally, I can add the washers with dogs to secure to the holes for them above. The top spring eye will bolt to a blade bracket welded to the front of the fork. It can be as long as I want it to be for security. A failure wouldn't be catastrophic, It would just cause tire drag on one leg. .................... (LATER)
    I just ran out of steam in the shop but have almost completed the easiest spring fork you can imagine. The spacing on the leading links couldn't have been better. I welded plates on the outside of the hollow fork legs with 3 holes to anchor the links to give me some tuning adjustment and add security to the welded area. The fork I selected is one of those with 3 plates at the top with a chrome cover to keep rain out of the legs. It was on a balloon tired bike apparently, although it has a horizontal bolt hole for a caliper. I gas welded the plates on and got to use my newly built Scotch Brite 2" belt buffer to round off and smooth the weld beads Went to the wire wheel and stripped everything and primed and painted it. Tomorrow it will be dry so I can assemble it and try it out. I think, since the hole is there in the fork neck for a caliper I can't use on a rim that goes up and down, I will slide a plate in there with a 1/4" bolt welded to it to go forward 2" to mount the fender on so it is centered on the wheel. I can wing it with some tubular struts of 1/4" stainless to get back to the fork. This has been a fun project to keep me alert. God knows the country needs more lerts:clap::hang:
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2008

  2. The fork works great

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------This is a transfer of a post I did on the other motorbike website. I am passing it on for anyone interested in making a good safe cushy fork cheaply and easily-----

    I did a good thingy. Test rode the reversed fork with the Honda 50 spring links and couldn't have asked for a smoother ride :tt2:I went down a rough asphalt street that formerly made my eyeballs jiggle and it was really smooth.
    I get ~2" of deflection when romping on the bars. It is rock-stable as regards side-slop like I was afraid of. I strongly recommend my design to be safe,quick,cheap,and aesthetically pleasing as well as the bottom line--a good ride. All that is necessary is any balloon fork, I suspect mine is Flying O, JC Higgins, Hawthorne, or maybe even Schwinn after they cheaped off and dropped the solid blade fork, a pair of Honda 50 front shock links and two pieces of 1/8" steel, rectangular, corners rounded, 2"X2-1/2"and (3)5/16"
    holes (for adjustment ) evenly spaced on the long dimension. They weld to the outside of the fork legs about half-way up facing frontwards. The position is determined by the link being horizontal with the fork at the head angle of ~20deg. with the top of the strut in the middle hole. Put 2 washers behind the strut eye to clear the springs. the front axle needs to be 3/8" and long like a trick bike footpeg axle so it will extend through the 1/2" axle boss and take a full nut. If the fork slot won't accept 3/8" drill it out but use security washers anyway. If the security washers won't accept 3/8" as mine didn't, DONT drill them, drive a tapered punch or likesuch in to expand the hole. The fender mount could be difficult. My fork has a 1/4" horizontal hole for a caliper so I will weld a bolt to a piece of 1/8" X 3/4" steel and take it foreward and down to bolt the fender to 2" in front of the fork. The reason being the fork legs are 2" behind where they would nomally be. The leading links preserve the rake angle. The struts will probably be 1/4" stainless tubing bent in a long "O" shape with straight sides mounted ~horizontally to the welded on tabs with perhaps silver-soldered ears replacing one of the washers and laying on top of the fender with
    brackets_,_/\_,_holding it to the fender. A stainless wall switch plate is a lovely source of stock. That's about all the news from Lake Woebegone
  3. another transplant from Motorized Bicycle Engine Kir Forum

    I am trying to share with as many other nuts as possible to get ideas

    I just completed the fork I turned backward and put the Honda 50 spring links on, but it doesn't look old enough. My thinking now is to copy the Pierce fork. It was on a four about 1910. All it takes is 2 balloon forks with a coil spring on the front stem working against a top stem plate on the rear fork similiar to a Schwinn springer. A heavy bolt working up and down through the plate with a bushing with a head on it and a rubber cookie to rebound against. A domed cap on top would keep fingers out of trouble. So far I know my Norton outer valve springs are a force fit on the 1" stem. I will have to get the spring and do some calculations as to where to put the axle and front fork so the action is right. Stay tuned. Trackfodder:bike2:

    Re: Another new fork in the works
    Today I begged a couple of valve springs from a friend with an automotivemachine shop. With the snubbers removed they are a nice free fit on the fork stem and the length is perfect. I stepped on one on the bathroom beam scales and it deflects about 1/4" at 100 lbs. and maybe an inch at 200 lbs. I think its' ballpark to what I need. I will have to calculate further to decide where to put the axle(fulcrum) to get the best action--soft ride but not over compressing. The links will be 1/4" plate with threaded 7/8" rounds screwed in and silver soldered in place and drilled 1/2 and be 1/2" thick to receive 1/2X1/2" shoulder bolts with 3/8" thread for pivots. The axle could be foreward of the spring legs if I need to for action. I will make a 1/4" thick plate to go over the main fork with a key to register with the fork notch and another 1" hole for the front fork to travel in with the race nut and top nut with a rubber cookie to snub rebound shock. I can put a cap on top with a bolt extending into the moving tube immersed in STP or something thinner for a shock. Here's where I could use advice. Would it give me quick plunge and slow rebound if I make the bottom of the plunger pointed and the backside flat? Visualize an inverted candy kiss on a pencil. I don't want to get into checkballs etc. I could maybe go with a sliding sleeve behind a vented plunger??? Your opinions, kind sirs. Keith (trackfodder) Williams (Go google 1910 Pierce motorcycycle and fourth picture down on "how stuff works" to get an idea what I am up to):jester:
  4. The 1910 Pierce-inspired fork is taking shape

    Tonight I made and profiled the link plates and top plate. I still need to get shoulder bolts. At this time it is held together with 3/8 and locknuts. I found it would work with the Schwinn drum brake and I think if I don't bolt the arm down like on the yellow bike and allow it to centrilize, it might be good. I will fill in the slots so the bolts can't escape , or just use safety lug washers. The big suprise came when I realized I can suspend a damper plunger from the gooseneck and put an oil seal under the top nut on the fork.:idea: A 1" o.d. x 1/4 id seal will be a snap to find. I can put a vented head on the end of the plunger with a floating sleeve to shut off the reverse flow on the rebound. I really don't think I will ever appreciate the damper, but I gotta plug the hole with SOMETHING An O-ring is my rebound cushion at present. It will take some contriving to put a fender on it. I don't like the short fork steering tube, but I will probably just recover it and do a whole frame from scratch as soon as I decide on a motor. The rear fork is a 24" and I don't have any others, so I'm stuck with it. The fork is copied from a PIERCE, not a Pearce Cheers to all,
  5. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Keith,pics please man if possible. :whistling:
  6. Some pix (maybe)

    Here are some jpg's from Picassa 3. I don't know if they will work for you. I told Snapfish to go away. I can't put this in the appropriate post because this forum doesn't have edit like Motorized Bicycles kit forum.
    Anyhow FWIW
    email.jpg (4KB), picasaweblogo-en_US.gif (3KB), picasaweblogo-en_US.gif (3KB), email.jpg (4KB)
  7. Just go to riquimbili and go to photos. Dee Jasn put them there for me. Click to enlarge. It has the goofy fork and other foolishness Also I just posted an update on general forum if interested. KW
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2009