redneckracing674
Well-Known Member
the size of the cam that goes into the fixed bearing. the precision ground shaft. it may be different, if it is a different/aftermarket cam.
wrong journal size. ill bet, if its a new cam
give it a good wiggle. my 3.5hp was a little tight, but tipping it cylender head down, and wiggling it, it went in.
Risk Man is using an original Whizzer NE-5 camthe size of the cam that goes into the fixed bearing. the precision ground shaft. it may be different, if it is a different/aftermarket cam.
Fifteen minutes tonight starting with TDC, I got it in with one tooth counterclockwise. Case side back on. Thanks for the tips and dialogue.
Trying to remove the flywheel next. I understand it is a clockwise remove, not reverse thread, but how do you hold it from turning without a special spanner tool to engage the three triangular holes on the face? knew I shouldn't but I did put rod into one of the three balancing holes on the rim and sure enough at the point of max torque, i chipped a small piece out of the balance holes. don't think it was enough to throw it off, but that is where my makeshift attempts stopped and back to the forums .......?
Live interact is better than idle talk.I tried it but I put it back in the original position. Bike runs fine with the strike plate in the original position, @17*
Some people think advancing the strike plate to 23* is gonna make a world of difference but it don't on these bikes
Maybe if ya got a engine that will go 60+ mph it will help but it's not necessary on an almost stock engine
My engine is basically almost stock and goes 50mph with the strike plate @ 17* and moving it to 23* didn't make a diff
It's an issue some will argue about