Mr. Herron
Well-Known Member
Very nice man, I really want that one but afraid of the issues I've been hearing about.
I have a serious question
- Thread starter Mr. Herron
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Mr. Herron
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info
Mr. Herron
Well-Known Member
Is it true that their engines are balanced? I watched a you tube video a easy way to. A half inch drill bit 15mm deep in-between the stock holes of crank. Ok both sides. Don't know how accurate that is but I've heard it works better than nothing
This is the key for reliability with the P-85, I followed the proper breakin precisely as written for it and got great results.
Mine was balanced beautifully right out of the box, even at 51 MPH which I did only once and still had more throttle left over, had no real vibration to deal with...And mine is the V-2, the V-3 cured the previously mentioned problems your referring to.
Mr. Herron
Well-Known Member
Can you possibly share that info with me please, the break in process?
Mr. Herron
Well-Known Member
Oh ok it comes with the engine then, how to break it in
cloakedvillain
Well-Known Member
V3 solved the ring snagging and bearing issues. Surprised they even shipped the v1 and 2, R and D probably just saw it run for 20 minutes and sent the files to the factory.
Breakin duration is 310 miles.
Use 6.4 ounces of Valvoline 2 cycle multipurpose ash free oil that you can get from Autozone quite readily, and mix that with one gallon of Ethanol-Free gasoline, you will have to check out what gas stations in your area carries it...This is a 20:1 mix.
It must be mixed in a gasoline jug so you can shake it vigorously everytime before pouring into the gas tank, NEVER try mixing in the tank because it will not mix in a uniform fashion that way.
Ride it gently during that breakin period with only brief periods of high throttle so as not to overheat it during this time of breakin when they tend to run hotter than normal anyways.
After every heat cycle, once it is cooled down totally, you must retorque the cylinder jug bolts on top, There is no separate head, (this is a one piece cylinder, cloned from an MS-460 chainsaw cylinder with a ceramic coating lining), This will need to be done for at least the first 200 miles or so.
Once this breakin duration is done and over with, you can then change to a full synthetic oil like I did...I use full synthetic, Amsoil Dominator 2 cycle racing oil, mixed at 5.12 ounces of oil to one gallon of gasoline which is a 25:1 mix.
NEVER think you can ever use less oil with a P-85 motor, you will doom it to failure as it needs its oil not only for lubrication, but it is also integral to keep it running at its coolest temperatures.
NO, it doesn't, you have to get those instructions online...lol...Or download the PDF like I did...lol.
Here it is down below to download to your computer downloads.
If any info in this slightly older PDF reads any different than what I told you, (I dont know if its been updated yet), be sure to follow the instructions I gave you, I got them directly from bicycle-engines.com from Molly, their customer service manager and she got them direct from the manufacturer, ZTMoto, (Zeda Technology Co., LTD).
