Hallenbeckxody
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I'd like to know ways to increase power and speed on my engine?
- Thread starter Hallenbeckxody
- Start date
Ill bet you even have a "boost bottle" in that mess...lol...DAMIEN
Cisco
Well-Known Member
I was considering it at one time. I do have one of those stubby intakes. I'm using the stock intake because I think it holds part of the fuel load for the next cycle (not sure of that). The stock intake holds the carb more level than the stubby, and it keeps the carb out of the way of the clutch cam lever and cable.
Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
Yeah, another thing about reed valves is, expect to see a reduction in gas efficiency, my MPGs dropped 20%- 25% after I put a reed valve on.
Chop-chop
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Here's one for ya.....
Installing a thicker base gasket down between the jug and the crankcase will rise the port position to alter the exhaust port timing to promote more bottom-end torque, some people will go as far as using a billet spacer along with liquid gasket to seal. Either way the downside by doing this, is the cylinder volume will increase and reduce compression, so to compensate for the reduction in compression, a thinner head gasket OR milling the mating surface of the head will be required in order to restore OR even better, increase compression for even more ooomph... just BECAREFUL to check your squish band regularly to make sure you haven't overdone it and caused the piston to smack the head ! Turn the whole shooting match over by hand to make sure the piston isn't hitting before actually cranking the engine over....
You can get rolls of gasket paper in various thickness at the local autostore for making your own base gasket. As for the head gasket - go to your local hobby store and find copper sheets in different thickness, use the dremel to make up your own head gasket in copper, just make sure your heat it up on the stove to soften it before fitting to help it seal.
Whilst the engine is apart, tidy up the inlet and exhaust ports by removing all casting dags, even widening the ports to aid flow, just becareful to match the ports to the manifolds to eliminate turbulence. Do the same for the transfer ports between the jug and the crankcase by using the base gasket as the guide (Refer to photo - sitting the jug on top of the crankcase without the piston to port match the transfer ports). Dremel has special tungsten carbide cutting tips that are perfect for doing ports - they aren't cheap at $20 - $30+ each but they last forever when used with aluminium these jugs and cases are made of. (Refer to photo - Dremel part numbers 9901, 9903, 9904, 9906, 9931 are the ones I stock up on.)
Experiment with different thickness gaskets to achieve the desired performance and power output. I do everything listed here before installing and running in each new engine. You'd be amazed at the difference compared to just wacking on an untouched unit and just running it.
Installing a thicker base gasket down between the jug and the crankcase will rise the port position to alter the exhaust port timing to promote more bottom-end torque, some people will go as far as using a billet spacer along with liquid gasket to seal. Either way the downside by doing this, is the cylinder volume will increase and reduce compression, so to compensate for the reduction in compression, a thinner head gasket OR milling the mating surface of the head will be required in order to restore OR even better, increase compression for even more ooomph... just BECAREFUL to check your squish band regularly to make sure you haven't overdone it and caused the piston to smack the head ! Turn the whole shooting match over by hand to make sure the piston isn't hitting before actually cranking the engine over....
You can get rolls of gasket paper in various thickness at the local autostore for making your own base gasket. As for the head gasket - go to your local hobby store and find copper sheets in different thickness, use the dremel to make up your own head gasket in copper, just make sure your heat it up on the stove to soften it before fitting to help it seal.
Whilst the engine is apart, tidy up the inlet and exhaust ports by removing all casting dags, even widening the ports to aid flow, just becareful to match the ports to the manifolds to eliminate turbulence. Do the same for the transfer ports between the jug and the crankcase by using the base gasket as the guide (Refer to photo - sitting the jug on top of the crankcase without the piston to port match the transfer ports). Dremel has special tungsten carbide cutting tips that are perfect for doing ports - they aren't cheap at $20 - $30+ each but they last forever when used with aluminium these jugs and cases are made of. (Refer to photo - Dremel part numbers 9901, 9903, 9904, 9906, 9931 are the ones I stock up on.)
Experiment with different thickness gaskets to achieve the desired performance and power output. I do everything listed here before installing and running in each new engine. You'd be amazed at the difference compared to just wacking on an untouched unit and just running it.
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Karl Snarl
Well-Known Member
Think of your engine as a drinking straw. fatter the better, but there are limits. Read about that here with simple searches on porting, and squish. Just a bigger crab will do nothing. NT carb is fine. NT carb is easy, but messy. Lots of things you can do. Research, this forums is full of stuff.
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