ignition mods

Ladies and Gentlemen please dont try this at home and Im serious.

When I have a drivers license I drive on one wheel thats why Im here.
 
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DT I agree completely. To me a two stroke is somewhat of a harmonic resonance machine. Even little changes that enhance the resonance (of intake and exhaust) make a helpful difference. A little bit off can hurt the output a lot. That's why modifying an engine should be done intelligently and correctly.
 
The plug is supposed to be either higher or lower then B6HS. You can read about it below.


http://www.survivalblog.com/2010/05/motorized_survival_bikes_by_ji.html

Get an aftermarket spark plug. In fact, get a couple so you have spares. They are cheap. These bikes use a cheap Chinese plug and get a little better performance with a name-brand part. Spark gap is not critical. Gap your plug anywhere between .025"-.035 and it will work fine.

NGK B5HS or B7HS
 
wtf?

is this guy serious?

closed combustion chamber? modified camshaft? drill a hole in your head then you can add a dual exhaust. then run twin carbs? seriously?

though, better listen to him. he rides on one wheel when he has a license. meaning hes such a good rider that the cops caught him :)

im gunna go drill a hole in my head now! it makes me smart like that guy!

ngk spark plugs increase power by 43.27% over cheap chinese junk. its a namebrand part :D

listen to jaguar... i dont agree with everything he says but at the moment, i do :) a 2stroke is a resonant system. everything must be in harmony. waffling on about how a b5hs or b7hs is better than a b6hs shows a complete lack of understanding of the most basic concepts.
 
and just for the record...that site, the survival blog...

while it mentions b5hs and b7hs, it doesnt elaborate on the whys or "whereforartthou's" of requiring them rather than a b6..or bp6hs if it where...

plois explain? :D

emp? lol...i think i better go and insulate one of my cdi units in an aluminium can because it might get EMP'd even though it produces its own EMP about 100 times a second at 6grand...
 
You can't be serious. All the same problems which are 4 currently have the same problems. So you have no solution but you try to give your EZ dumptruck friend credit for knowing nothing and solving nothing unless you prestage a thread like I see so many times.
You aint helping nobody.
Changing the CDI wire is as smart as drilling a hole in the head.
 
Changed out old chinese plug, plug boot and wire.

Now running NGK B6HS (.032 Gap), MSD 8.5mm lead & Boots. Threaded onto old standard CDI via exposed screw and hot glued. 20:1. Runs really well.

I agree with jag about the CDI needing to retard/advance as you can hear the pitch change just after it reaches its optimum rev range then every now and again flutters a little, bugger all, but you can tell it would probably help.
 
RIGHT! I DEMAND ANSWERS!

WHO STARTED THIS THREAD?

oh. blue 48.....

i hold you ENTIRELY responsible for jinxing my cdi unit today!

(yes its the cdi cus the magnetos generating something whilst the coil just aint biting like it should...)

lol. lucky i got some spares... :D and a few schematics of various options INCLUDING a pic-chip based(thats a microprocessor folks) cdi so as to program any freakin curve one can desire :)

but the death of the cdi explains why it stopped idling nicely when warm... sometimes.

taking me back to long long ago to when i wanted to modify the rotor and coil anyway, make something adjustable, or use a brushcutter coil or something... now im thinking again!

i need more money :'(
 
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@headsmess sorry mate:whistle:.@ EVERYONEelse it seems like i started some kind of :poop: fight that wasnt expected :-/ im not having any issues at all with my ingition i was just doing some thinking is all:confused: but i did get some info off u guys so thanks and once again i didnt mean to start anything :(
 
I know on older vintage engines, timing was advanced and retarded mechanically, the point lobes rotated on a shaft based on centrifugal force. How would that work on a CDI, is it electronic? One of my MBs has a Homelite CDI chainsaw motor on it and it stays in its power band up to the maximum rpm. Is that because the CDI advances and retards electroncally?
 
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