I'm shopping for a new rear wheel.

artmaker

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So after hundreds (possibly thousands) of miles, my rear hub is shot. Took it to a bike shop, who said it would be cheaper and easier to just buy a new wheel rather than rebuild one.
BUT they are having a hard time finding one.

So it's worth a shot to post here.

I need…
26" steel or alloy, 14 gauge spokes (or better.)
Mine is a free wheel (5 speed bike)

Now they tell me a seal bearing hub would be better than what I had but might not come in a free wheel version. So I would have to buy gears in that case. I'm fine with that. Since it's the hub that failed, stronger would be better. I barely use the gears. They can put on what ever they have in stock for me.

Since I use standard caliper brakes, there isn't much wiggle room in rim width. Mine measures 31 mm.
I did find wheels that are wider, but again, brakes. I really don't have much adjustment space there at all.

TIre size is 2.125

I am also not opposed to colored wheels. (Black would be nice.) In which case I'll get the matching front as well.

The best stuff I found yet is here, not sure the wider rims most of these seem to be will work though.
http://custommotoredbicycles.com/he...edanodized_colored_rims_alloyfreewheel_wheels

However, this is their old site. I have ordered from Lynn before but when I asked about this she said they are rebuilding a new site which won't be done till end of Oct. (not that far off.) Never answered my size questions. Probably too busy with inventory and what not.

Meanwhile if you all know of anything I can get ordered now, I would love to get a few more rides in before the snow.


So… got links to sites with this particular item? Post away.

OH… one last thought. I'm not at all opposed to buying a new gear for the 4 stroke, one of those ones that mount with three bolts to the hub and not the rubber things that smoosh around the spokes. OR if there is a wheel with the gear already built in, all the better.
 
What exactly is the problem with hub you have? There's not many problems with screw fit freewheel hubs that can't be fixed.

The wider spaced (and higher number of) bearings on freehub are certainly the superior system for most bicycles, but I think the freewheel hubs are quite good for left side single speed bikes if you're not going to pedal much.. There's no point wearing out an expensive high quality freehub. A freewheel cluster is inexpensive to replace when the ratchet mechanism wears out.
I'm sure there are sealed and unsealed bearing versions of both the freehub and the screw on freewheel types of hub.

I only buy complete wheels on fleaBay auctions now. Always google for reviews of any wheels/parts you aren't already familiar with. ;)
Being patient and watching for the rare bargains makes the freehub wheels very affordable. :)
It is nice having the 11t or 12t smallest sprocket too for a higher top gear, if you do like to pedal along with the engine. :)

Oh one last thought if you can get a wheel that is disc and rim brake compatible it should be easy to bolt on a top hat adapter and sprocket. :)
 
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Problem is the oh, cup… thing where the bearings roll around in is just plain warn out. You can see where a whole extra track has been carved in. I thought at first my wheel got warped when I tipped the bike until I had it up on a stand and went to fill the tire noticed the wobble. Bought tools needed and took it apart. Sure enough. Hub is shot. The wheel itself is perfectly true though. Amazing considering the miles. I wish I could just find a bike shop willing to rebuild it and replace the hub. Might keep looking, nothing is close though.

I really don't want to switch to disk brakes. Not in the rear at least. Just got done redoing the brakes, they work fine.
As for my gears, (pedaling that is) I'm not real picky. I do need the five speeds though. There are times when I have to help my bike up hills and already moving along. Other times (say I break down) and have to pedal home. Between my weight and the bike, bike without a motor alone is over 75lbs, the thing is a tank. Low gears and slow going. Only way. (Actually the last time I broke down I walked. Easier than trying to pedal that thing.)
 
Is the hub made from steel with the cups built in or is it alloy with the steel cups pressed in?
If the hub is definitely done for, and you don't have to keep using it while you find the replacement, then I'm wondering whether the bearing cup can actually be knocked out of the hub shell and replaced.
I think it was @zippinaround who replaced his cups and everything with sealed cartridge bearings just directly into the hub shell.

Well anyway if you don't fancy that or if it's not possible to with your hub then I'll just clarify what I was saying about the disc and rim brake compatible wheel..
I'm not suggesting that you switch to disc brakes. A wheel which is suitable for either type means you can keep using your rim brakes and you have the bonus of the disc rotor mount which you can use to mount the (top hat adapter, and to that the) sprocket very easily and effectively.
That's what I did on my own build, except that I had to make my own top hat adapter because it's expensive to ship to Europe. The top hat adapter is IMO superior to the clamshell adapter and the pineapple adapter.
 
Is the hub made from steel with the cups built in or is it alloy with the steel cups pressed in?
If the hub is definitely done for, and you don't have to keep using it while you find the replacement, then I'm wondering whether the bearing cup can actually be knocked out of the hub shell and replaced.
I think it was @zippinaround who replaced his cups and everything with sealed cartridge bearings just directly into the hub shell.

Well anyway if you don't fancy that or if it's not possible to with your hub then I'll just clarify what I was saying about the disc and rim brake compatible wheel..
I'm not suggesting that you switch to disc brakes. A wheel which is suitable for either type means you can keep using your rim brakes and you have the bonus of the disc rotor mount which you can use to mount the (top hat adapter, and to that the) sprocket very easily and effectively.
That's what I did on my own build, except that I had to make my own top hat adapter because it's expensive to ship to Europe. The top hat adapter is IMO superior to the clamshell adapter and the pineapple adapter.
yes sir I did knock out my destroyed cups and just got sealed bearings to fit , however I did very little testing on it as its just a backup wheel. the cups are easy enough to remove if the hub is alloy at least just spray penetrating spray into the backs of the cups and leave overnight then tap out the following day.
 
Well hi zippinaround. I think I need to go retrieve my wheel from the bike shop. If THEY don't know enough about changing the cups, why pay them huh? Weeks they had this thing.
So maybe once I get it back home, (gotta see if they are even open today, doubtful.) I'll get a picture of it up. See if this is "fixable" or if I really do need a full rebuild or new wheel.
Safe to say my riding season for this year is over. So no rush now. :(
 
I am not sure where you are from but if you need a replacement wheel until you fix your wheel or buy a premium one. You can always look on Craiglist for a cheap bike (<$30) and salvage the wheel off of that bike. Just make sure the rear wheel is in true and in good order and tire is not excessively degraded.
 
Well hi zippinaround. I think I need to go retrieve my wheel from the bike shop. If THEY don't know enough about changing the cups, why pay them huh? Weeks they had this thing.
So maybe once I get it back home, (gotta see if they are even open today, doubtful.) I'll get a picture of it up. See if this is "fixable" or if I really do need a full rebuild or new wheel.
Safe to say my riding season for this year is over. So no rush now. :(
could be a steelhub where the cups are not removable but worth a shot anyway if they don't come out then so be it but if you get em out just measure for the best fitting sealed bearings . pop em in and try not gonna cost very much to try
 
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