Important clutch adjustment required for maximum grip.

[RB55]

After 300 miles, my clutch pads started to wear down to the point where the bike became difficult to start because the clutch kept slipping and wouldn't crank the engine properly. I got new clutch pads and followed the flower nut tightening procedure, which helped a little but the bike was soon back to being difficult to start and clutch was slipping like crazy. I could have adjusted spring tension but that's a pain and I didn't want to take apart the engine.

I saw in a forum post from 2008 that sanding down the clutch pads so they fit loosely into the clutch wheel will increase clutch grip since they can grip the back flywheel as well, which makes sense. I removed all pads from my clutch and sanded them down so they fit loosely into their rectangular spots and WOW! I can now start the bike in a few feet instead of halfway down the road. The clutch grips amazingly well with the sanding. Before, I was really worried about not being able to pedal start from a cold engine, but now it's no problem.

This may have been mentioned before here but I think it's good to mention it again since most posts here on clutch adjustment only mention tightening the flower nut.

Happy Riding!

 

[Karl Snarl]

you dont have to disassemble the engine to set the preload. all you have to do is take the clutch guide bolt under the carb off, slip a flat head in the hole and spin the back tire a little bit ( when i say a little bit, i really mean a little bit, to much and the preload is so tight there is no clutch movement). sounds really like you need to tighten the preload. to me it seems they are dragging and not fully connecting with the friction plate. i've had clucth pads on one of my bikes for over 5000 miles, still look good and they are factory pads.

 

[RB55]

you dont have to disassemble the engine to set the preload. all you have to do is take the clutch guide bolt under the carb off, slip a flat head in the hole and spin the back tire a little bit ( when i say a little bit, i really mean a little bit, to much and the preload is so tight there is no clutch movement). sounds really like you need to tighten the preload. to me it seems they are dragging and not fully connecting with the friction plate. i've had clucth pads on one of my bikes for over 5000 miles, still look good and they are factory pads.

Sounds good, i'm gonna try it tonight...

 

[RB55]

you dont have to disassemble the engine to set the preload. all you have to do is take the clutch guide bolt under the carb off, slip a flat head in the hole and spin the back tire a little bit ( when i say a little bit, i really mean a little bit, to much and the preload is so tight there is no clutch movement). sounds really like you need to tighten the preload. to me it seems they are dragging and not fully connecting with the friction plate. i've had clucth pads on one of my bikes for over 5000 miles, still look good and they are factory pads.

Sorry if this might sound kinda dumb, but I assume that I spin the wheel forward? And how much is a little bit for the tire? 1/8 turn? 1/2 turn? Thanks!

 

[Karl Snarl]

Sorry if this might sound kinda dumb, but I assume that I spin the wheel forward? And how much is a little bit for the tire? 1/8 turn? 1/2 turn? Thanks!

backwards. spin it back wards about a 1/4 turn to start. you'll know if you go to far, the tire will stop moving and you wont get any movement from the clutch handle when you squeeze it after putting it back together. i have my 5hp bike set pretty tight. just make sure when setting it, you get about an 1/8 inch of pressure plate arm movement and you should be good.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Sorry if this might sound kinda dumb, but I assume that I spin the wheel forward? And how much is a little bit for the tire? 1/8 turn? 1/2 turn? Thanks!

just make sure you do small turns, so you don't set the preload to high and the arm movement ceases.

oh an hey, there is no such thing as a dumb question when you are trying to learn.

 

[RB55]

just make sure you do small turns, so you don't set the preload to high and the arm movement ceases.

oh an hey, there is no such thing as a dumb question when you are trying to learn.

Thanks, it was super easy and definitely at least doubled clutch grip! Everyone should do this if their clutch is slipping as well...

 

[Marmalade1]

My clutch is unable to fully engage too; I've only managed to get it started once and I've had a lot of adjustments and frustration since then.

I'm happy to have potentially found a solution. I've removed the clutch guide bolt as you suggested. However, when I can see past the grease, it's completely round in there. I turned the rear wheel slowly backwards as you suggested and my flat-head screwdriver didn't engage anywhere. Should it be inserted lengthwise or left to right? What am I doing wrong?

I appreciate your help.

 

[darwin]

Yeppers, no such thing as a dumb ?.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]