In box GT5 66cc slant

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by geebt48cc, Nov 26, 2010.

  1. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member


    I'm very pleased with my GT2 48cc, so got a GT5 66cc kit. What is thought, or said, about me modifing this kit before I even put it on the bike to start breaking in? Uno,/plug/plug wire/port matching/ JB weld just on head studs/etc.

    Question is, should I go ahead and mount as is, or go ahead and do all I can before mounting on bike before first start?:eek:



  2. Pablo

    Pablo Motored Bikes Sponsor

    I would run it first. Make sure it starts and goes.

    Think of your 100,000 mile warranty man!!:jester::ack2:
  3. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    Usually, if there is a warantee, it will be voided as soon as you modify something.
    I would put it on the bike and get it running first to make sure everything is ok.
    If you modify anything before you get it running, and it doesn't run by no fault of yours, then you are stuck with the engine.
  4. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member


    Very true there!~ I don't want to kill my what warantee it's got.

  5. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    If and when you JB weld your not JB weld the stock studs. You'll need to use some good quality non-China ones. I've been doing this for years and never have to worry about my studs backing out or stripping out.
  6. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member

    True, but I figured as long as I get the china studs set in a good foundation of JB, then as long as I keep a eye on them always/ torqued at 12lbs, I'll be ok?

    I know it's scary being from china metal, but.................?
  7. Hammond Egger

    Hammond Egger Member

    I say tear it down and rip it up, it's not like the warranty is going to amount to anything anyway.
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    JB Weld is junk on these engines...If you want to lock the studs as I do then go with locktite. I use RED and should I ever need to remove any, heating is not a problem. I make ALL my own studs out of all thread metric grade 8.8, anything greater is a waste. Waiting for my 6th engine to arrive. I have NEVER had to re torque a stud. To each his own.

    I change studs to 8.8 out of the box. 8mm studs are torqued from between 150 - 200 INCH pounds and 6mm 50-75 INCH pounds. I use 150 and 50 INCH pounds.
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2010
  9. handyandy91

    handyandy91 New Member

    Is 150 INCH pounds the same as 15 foot pounds??
  10. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    handyandy91, 150 inch-pounds = 12.5 foot-pounds.
    (Divide inch-pounds by 12.)

    Glen, I'd get it running first, if I were you. As pointed out by Pablo and motorpsycho, if anything is amiss you won't have any come-back with the dealer if you've modified anything.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2010
  11. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member

    Yes Steve,
    You as well as everyone here, you are right. Sorry guys, guess I was having a senior moment huh. Steve, I'm very pleased with this 48, but just after reading so much, I do believe that I can get just a bit more torque out of the 66.

    Steve, I bet you get a kick out of a large person like me trying to get these little bikes reliable. Well, it is, what it is I guess? It's fun just to see if you can get them true blue. (Uno, being where they are made to begin with)

    See, when I bought this 48 a year ago, I was going to start it out using Synthetic Amsoil. After reading much on here, I got the impression, that I need to use regular 2/stroke oil for first few hundred miles before I go with a true synthetic?

    Is that True/False?

    Hey, appreciate
  12. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Nothing wrong with trying to improve these things and make them more reliable etc.
    That adds to the fun of creating your own bike, with your own fingerprint on it.
    Considering that you're a little heavier than my 110 lbs, I'm surprised that you didn't start with a 66cc instead of a 48. (I would have bought a 100 or 250 if they made them.)

    I've read a lot of posts regarding starting out with normal 2-stroke before switching to synthetic, so that's what I did when I started out. It's done close to 1000 miles now without engine problems. Don't know if the oil made a difference, though. Probably more important is the amount of oil rather than the type -> as much as possible. I still run 20:1 in mine. (Haven't ridden for a while, though.)
  13. geebt48cc

    geebt48cc Member

    Yeah Steve, guess I'm just alittle paranoid of going over 50cc due to police. You're right though..............I need more, but this little engine does pretty well considering its only a bicycle!!~ I'm just still worried about the inside of the jug having that scratch, and missing place of chrome sleeve on bottom. Bike runs great, idles well, great compression, smooth in every other place on sleeve, and once again, burn is chocolate brown. I just would hate for it to be running so well, and be out a good ways, and then she self destructs.

    I sit around and think of all kinds of issues? Wrist Pin? Oil Ratio? Did I run to lean, to long? .....................or is everything going to be ok. Only total 350 miles sense new.
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2010
  14. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    My engine doesn't have any markings to say what size it is. It's a 66cc, but if pulled over I'll say it's a 48cc. (Either way, here, if it's over 200W it's illegal.)

    The scratch shouldn't cause any problems. The peeling chrome might, though. Mine is doing the same and has had no problems, but I guess that if too much peeled off it might seize more easily. It's time I pulled mine down and checked it out.

    Regarding reliability, I doubt if you can ever really rely on a HT engine. For good, reliable service, I doubt if you could go past a Honda, despite the relatively high price. (If only they made a frame-mount 70cc Honda.)