Inexpensive Power Mod

boneswood

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May 27, 2015
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Kamloops, BC
11233169_10153581057140883_1048152610270488835_o (1).jpg2 3/16'' of pipe was added from a shower head plumbing tube. Just sand the threads off of the straight end and it fits in your stock carb. Add to a cheap offset intake and you have 7.5'' from the piston to the carb, which helps these engine run efficiently and negates the need for a bottle booster. 11951510_10153581060800883_1513958954703538761_o.jpg
 
the further out you stick the weight of the carb the more force it puts on the joints. it acts like a lever. it's best to mechanically isolate the carb from the engine using rubber hose
 
the further out you stick the weight of the carb the more force it puts on the joints. it acts like a lever. it's best to mechanically isolate the carb from the engine using rubber hose

This actually gave me an idea for my carb. I'm working on a predator build with an aftermarket carb, and the angle of my intake manifold makes the carb stick out to where my legs will hit when I pedal. I was going to try cutting the manifold and sticking some pipe over or in it. But I like the hose idea better. Any particular type of hose I should look for (temperature resistant?) The manifold is separated from the engine already by a thermal baffle, if that makes any difference.
 
intakes stay relatively cold, the only requirement is that it has to be fuel resistant.
 
longer intake tracts benefit low rpm power more. a small engine needs all the help it can get with low rpm power. rubber hose is best. any hose will do. I used hose that wasn't gasoline resistant and it held up just fine.
also add in 6" of pipe in the header before the muffler. that also helps.
 
I've used rubber hose that wasn't gasoline resistant and ended up with a squishy gross mess
 
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