Info On Different Types Of Motors...

the cyclops

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Hello guys,
My 1st post and I am happy to be here.I am a runner,vegetarian,cyclist and healthnut.I am also into motorcycles,scooters and alternative/minimal/green living.
I am thinking of doing a project bike and am around 160lbs.I personally am more interested in the most "pop"from my bike,as well as dependability because I live in NC with lots of hills and cant afford to be going 15mph uphill.I will also be using this bike for commuting.Sooooo here are my questions......(And I know you will surely get a chuckle from my ignorance)

1-The original plan was to buy a "fixie" and get it running,but is a fixed speed the way to go,or do I need a 21 speed,etc?

2-I just seen an add on craigslist for a beach cruiser w/a STATION FRICTION DRIVE and a HONDA GXH50 for fairly cheap,but I was thinking on the the GRUBEE SKYHAWK setup (Seen them for around $150-$200)....what exactly are the differences/advantages/disadvantages of these two?

3-Of the two setups I named above,is there possibly a better alternative?Or a more durable/dependable brand that I am not aware of?

4-Are the differances between a 49cc/66cc/80cc exermaly noticeable? And what do the "boost bottles" do to these bikes? Are all street legal/no tag required? In NC a scooter over 49CC must be tagged.

5-In a nutshell I want to do this project 1 time and do it right,and this is why I came here for hopefully some educated opinions and direction.

Well,thanks for the info...P.S. Do these engines have a governer as to not over rev or blow?:unsure:
 
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Wow, you got questions. Welcome to Motored bikes though!
These engines do not have governors. My Harbor fright 2.5 used to have one.

The HT engines you are wondering about (the 49 & 66 cc in frame) kits are the least reliable but look the best.

The beach cruiser you mentioned has quality engine and drive system on it. However, it is reported that friction can slip in the rain unless treated very gingerly.

If your hills are steep you are not likely to exceed 15 mph unless you assist the engine by pedaling. Unless you spring for an Italian Morini engine.

Hills mean gears! Hey - I only have a few overpasses and city streets and I would not do without gears.
 
Wow, you got questions. Welcome to Motored bikes though!
These engines do not have governors. My Harbor fright 2.5 used to have one.

The HT engines you are wondering about (the 49 & 66 cc in frame) kits are the least reliable but look the best.

The beach cruiser you mentioned has quality engine and drive system on it. However, it is reported that friction can slip in the rain unless treated very gingerly.

If your hills are steep you are not likely to exceed 15 mph unless you assist the engine by pedaling. Unless you spring for an Italian Morini engine.

Hills mean gears! Hey - I only have a few overpasses and city streets and I would not do without gears.

Thanks for the info_OK.Well as soon as I posted this question I actually got a hold of the guy w/the craigslist posting
http://hickory.craigslist.org/mcy/2149774209.html

Turns out he actually makes and sells them which is crazy that he is in my hometown,and I live in a fairly small city...ANYWHO he said he normally uses a robin/mitisubishi clone engine (no clue exactly what that is) But says the in frame engines were garbage,etc and that he would install a robin/mitsu clone on my bike for 225,which seems reasonable...

So thanks for the info but I still have a few more questions :geek:

Anybody know what this clone motor is? Legal issues like a tailight? (I have a NASTY headlight so not worried bout that) Being dependable is an issue,how far,realistically,can you drive these types of bikes w/out giving the engine some rest? The guy I just talked to seem to think that as long as I am moving (air cool) that its all good to run all day long,and he seemed to be an upfront/knowledgable guy.
 
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The engines as used on the rear mount setups are all forced air cooling. They have a built in fan and shrouding to direct the air flow where it needs to go. You can run them 24/7 at a dead standstill and they will not overheat. I recently learned of the BMP belt/ chain drive system and it has really grown on me. The all weather reliability of a chain to the rear wheel and a belt transmission for reduced maintenance as well as easier maintenance whenever required. The only thing I do not like about it is the "spoke sandwich" rear wheel sprocket mounting. I recommend using a rear wheel with a hub that is set up for a disc brake and use one of the adapters to mount a chain sprocket to the wheel hub's disc mounting flange.
http://www.bikemotorparts.com/kit.html

Another excellent drive system that I have been seriously looking at is the GEBE system.
It too is an all weather system and uses the same style of engines as previously discussed. In my opinion it is more reliable than the BMP system due to less parts to wear out and maintain It also comes with everything necessary to ride it the same day you get it. No special sprockets or adapters needed for a reliable drive on the rear wheel. You also need not worry about having someone else install it either. You can do it yourself in a few hours if you work slowly, less than that if you are an experienced basic mechanic.
http://www.bikeengines.com/

As for the legal lighting, registration, ect. that you may need, that is dependent on where you live.
 
The engines as used on the rear mount setups are all forced air cooling. They have a built in fan and shrouding to direct the air flow where it needs to go. You can run them 24/7 at a dead standstill and they will not overheat. I recently learned of the BMP belt/ chain drive system and it has really grown on me. The all weather reliability of a chain to the rear wheel and a belt transmission for reduced maintenance as well as easier maintenance whenever required. The only thing I do not like about it is the "spoke sandwich" rear wheel sprocket mounting. I recommend using a rear wheel with a hub that is set up for a disc brake and use one of the adapters to mount a chain sprocket to the wheel hub's disc mounting flange.
http://www.bikemotorparts.com/kit.html

Another excellent drive system that I have been seriously looking at is the GEBE system.
It too is an all weather system and uses the same style of engines as previously discussed. In my opinion it is more reliable than the BMP system due to less parts to wear out and maintain It also comes with everything necessary to ride it the same day you get it. No special sprockets or adapters needed for a reliable drive on the rear wheel. You also need not worry about having someone else install it either. You can do it yourself in a few hours if you work slowly, less than that if you are an experienced basic mechanic.
http://www.bikeengines.com/

As for the legal lighting, registration, ect. that you may need, that is dependent on where you live.

OK,I think I am slowly figuring it out,lol.Thanks for the info from both of you guys.Now here is just one more question.Most of the friction drive engines are more or less the same thing (but either a honda,mitsubishi,robin,chinese,etc) except for this one http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4506/.f
Do you know too much about this?It was from one of the links you sent me.
And should the brakes,tires or wheels need to be upgraded if I went with a 4hp engine? How typically fast is safe on a bicycle? I have a jamis allegro 1 that it will be mounted on.
 
That's a chinese clone of the venerable Zenoah engine. It is pretty darn good for a chinese engine too.
I always recommend upgrading the brakes. A bicycle typically travels at 10 to 15 mph, unless it is a racing bicycle. An engine can double that speed. Stock brakes are not up to the task of quickly and safely stopping something that is traveling twice the speed that they were designed to operate at and be expected to do it reliably over and over again.
I googled your bike and some KoolStop Salmon brake pads would most likely get you in a safer braking situation. They are highly revered by alot of MB riders and I will be getting some myself soon. I cannot personally comment on them though.
Still, if you like going 40+ MPH, think about some quality disc brakes instead.

The fastest safe speed on a bicycle depends on the bicycle and your riding skills.
I cannot answer that question with a number. The generally agreed number on most of the MB forums is 35-40 MPH though.
 
That's a chinese clone of the venerable Zenoah engine. It is pretty darn good for a chinese engine too.
I always recommend upgrading the brakes. A bicycle typically travels at 10 to 15 mph, unless it is a racing bicycle. An engine can double that speed. Stock brakes are not up to the task of quickly and safely stopping something that is traveling twice the speed that they were designed to operate at and be expected to do it reliably over and over again.
I googled your bike and some KoolStop Salmon brake pads would most likely get you in a safer braking situation. They are highly revered by alot of MB riders and I will be getting some myself soon. I cannot personally comment on them though.
Still, if you like going 40+ MPH, think about some quality disc brakes instead.

The fastest safe speed on a bicycle depends on the bicycle and your riding skills.
I cannot answer that question with a number. The generally agreed number on most of the MB forums is 35-40 MPH though.

Awesome,I appreciate the info.I think Im just gonna get the davis motorsports engine,when I asked the "builder" he replied with a very reasonable qoute and was excited to say the least,said he can make my bike fly,we will see...
Anywho I cant actually believe Im getting ready to build this thing,HAHAHA!! I was riding a cbr900RR this time last year,and I think I am more excited to get this lil project done than the cbr!!!
As far as the brakes,I agree 100% with you,but when I asked the guy building the bike he said I will be fine.Im gonna google some disk brakes and see how much they are.What about different tires?
So you told me how fast safely to go,but how fast could a 4hp davis motor pull a 160lb man on a 25lb bike :giggle:?Well I will post pics as soon as I get it all finished done and keep the advice coming!
 
For tires I run the best smooth tread street tires I can afford. Right now they are $13.00 a piece Chen Shin's. Bottom of the barrel at my LBS. Still way better than the tires sold by Wal Mart, ect.
Your top speed will be determined by the gearing, state of tune of the engine, tail wind, down hill, and possibly your courage. Just remember that the typical top speed allowed by law is 30MPH. Check your local regulations for that though. Some areas are 20 MPH.
 
For tires I run the best smooth tread street tires I can afford. Right now they are $13.00 a piece Chen Shin's. Bottom of the barrel at my LBS. Still way better than the tires sold by Wal Mart, ect.
Your top speed will be determined by the gearing, state of tune of the engine, tail wind, down hill, and possibly your courage. Just remember that the typical top speed allowed by law is 30MPH. Check your local regulations for that though. Some areas are 20 MPH.

Thanks GearNut.I have been reading more on that motor and some people have said unreliable/bad clutch...The more and more I read about this I just wanna get a Honda or Robin and be done with it.Dependable trumps speed in my book anyway.And what of the Mitsubishi engines,are they comparable with hondas?
 
Judging by the praisers and hecklers comments I have read on the forums, Mitsu. engines are one of the best available.
Honda, Mistubishi, Tanaka, Subaru, are all excellent.
All of the Chinese clone engines have their unique achillie's heels. They are in no way as good as the Japanese engines.
 
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