Installation, gaps, other problems

Joined
Jul 18, 2018
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#1
chain with engine in the most rightside position almost touches seatstay and chainstay (3 mm off). im using a special hub and 56t sprocket, the distance of sprocket is about 30 mm from the left, i think bigger than if i placed it directly on the spokes (in that case chain woud rub the frame). actually i made wheel (chose spoke length and spacers on hub's axle) based on the condition that the sprocket's edge would be 7 mm off chainstay (i thought only about gap between sprocket and chainstay, assuming that for chain any position of sprocket is suitable).. i can redo hub and rebuild wheel again, moving hub, sprocket even further another 6 mm to the right (max distance, so i would have L21:34R on center, compared to current L27:28R), but thats a lot of work. on the right side i have a single speed freewheel, but if there was a 6-7 freewheel i doubt there would be any space for moving. i wonder how it is supposed to work for people who use stock wheels? my bike is mtb 21.5". what should i do, how do you manage with it on your bikes?

another question is about sprockets. if i wrap chain around this 56t sprocket, near the end of the circle teeth get in the middle of the links; evidently it is made for a chain with slightly bigger pitch (or teeth are more thick, i dont know) why is it, is it a random error or it was made intentionally this way to account for chain stretch? could i ride it without chain jumping and wait until it stretches?

chain tensioner: a very dangerous device and doesnt fit my frame. what is max allowable slack in chain? max slack could be 1 link, is it acceptable? on a single speed there's a special dropout, where you can tension chain by moving hub's axle, here everything's fixed.

on the transmission, how tight should t belt be, should i tighten it to max or allow some slack?
 
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junglepig

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Oct 30, 2018
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#2
For your chain, you can use an offset link. That way you can get within 1/2 link if a full link is too much. I can't help with your other questions.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
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#3
it is strange no one has the chain rubbing problem. i thought my bike is big, distances between seatstays, chainstays are big. for comparison i have another bike with more classic/road frame, and now i see there would be no way to put motor on it, because there frame in seatstays, chainstays is even narrower.
 

FNTPuck

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Jul 2, 2018
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#4
First off, do NOT run the chain like that. Your sprocket is made for a different pitch chain and it will be ruined if you try to run it. I had two kits come with incorrect sprockets before as well. They line up perfectly till about halfway around the sprocket before the links start hitting the teeth and not meshing up. You need to measure and change either the chain or the sprocket.

Do you have a picture of exactly where it is hitting on the frame? The bigger the sprocket the less chainstay clearance you may have since they are tapered on most frames and the larger sprocket moves the chain to a narrower part of the frame.

Are you running a direct drive setup off a clutch, which is why you chose that massive 54t sprocket? Most people run a max of 44-46t off a transmission (I like the belt drive one) so do not get into that issue. Maybe you can add a link and move the tire backwards so the chain crosses on a wider part of the stay, and slide the sprocket adapter over for the rest of the room? Hard to say without a picture.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
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#5
First off, do NOT run the chain like that.
but this is 415 sprocket! i waited for it several months, i have no other option. i encoutered something similar on a regular bike when i got a new cassette and the biggest sprocket was for a bigger pitch; a new chain was jumping, but then i took an old stretched chain and it doesnt jump (only occasionally under much load). these things are made on high precision equipment. they cannot enter number correctly or why are they doing it?
Hard to say without a picture.
it is the narrowest place of the seatstay, around the breaklever, and on the chainstay gap is even smaller. ive decided rebuilding the wheel, so on top i would have ~6mm clearance from frame and ~5mm to tire, and on bottom ~5mm from frame.
 
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