Installing generator to a predator motor to power lights

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It should equally fit according to the video, I'm just giving you the parts.

A 160cc flywheel and charger coil fit a 200cc as well. He pulled it and swapped it.

I really can't explain what the video is, but perhaps there's something we aren't seeing?

He left it all rusty too I don't know what to say.

Either the extra 11/16" on the outer diameter is OK, or it isn't.

That shaft diameter? Well a pto is the power take-off, that is what is commonly known as the "drive shaft" or output shaft on these motors. Then a transmission and clutch (reduction gear, transfer case, manual/auto clutch) are added after the pto.

The flywheel is on the other side, often becoming whatever the manufacturer wants it to be. On our 66cc 2 strokes it's a magnet on a thin shaft inside the coil arms. That magnet and magneto will probably never fit in any engine except the classic happy time motor. Even several grubee varieties are different and can't fit that set up.

Anyway, the point is that on a 4 stroke that flywheel is basically up to the manufacturer. If they cloned that side of the engine 3 or 4 times on several different cc sized motors then so what? They did it probably to save money making them.

Not saying that it's definitely true. It's probably just that on this motor it is rare to see a need for alternate lighting, it is very small as is and so the applications are limited. Most of them do not need lighting from the engine. It's up to you to figure it out perhaps. Now would be a good time to measure your engine up if you have it. Get the clearances you do and don't have.

If a flywheel only 11/16" larger outer diameter then only 11/32 of clearance around the freewheel will be taken up. About 8.7mm, it might get pretty tight. Then again it might not.
 
Friction generator that monkey....does it matter where the power comes from?
 
I've googled.

It's been almost 4 years since the OP.

I didn't find any kits for starter kit.

Unsure if there's even bosses to install the charging coil.

That, and the special flywheel are the keys.
 
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Yep, its dearer. Depends on perceived benefits.

spoking aside and just guesses at prices and doability of 22v on a 24v bike, but maybe:

$65 for a 350w DD (geared dont do regen) hub w/ regen, $25 for a controller, $20 for a cheap display & throttle & ~$30 for a 22v ~4ah lipo hobby pak. Even a 10ah pouch cell lifepo4 24v pak should be cheap - only 8 cells, or seven LiMn pouches..

maybe find a 2nd hand 24v front hub & wheel?
Cool.
I think the OP over estimates the cost of ebike bits from china - as cheap as - & the thing is all the nerdy electric stuff is done for you professionally in massive factories.

just find a way of spinning the wheel or the hub, plug in the modules like throttle, controller w/ regen, informative lcd display, battery - & viola - 12 - 48v power & charging circuitry.

there is a use case where one simply uses ones ebike as EITHER a bike or genny. If the grids out - my ebike can be an emergency generator - or - i can commute by day and generate by night.
 
While that is true, it may well be a bit of overkill just to run some lights and keep the battery charged. As stated above, I would like for the thing to be inexpensive and easy to install. A charging coil circuit for a 212cc Predator is around $50. A new flywheel is a bit more. An e-bike setup, on the other hand, could cost a small pile of dough. Besides, adding more complexity invites more potential problems and more maintenance issues.

I like the idea of a hybrid, but not for my current bike.
Its a great post

what about gearing - matching rpm/torque ~optimally to the generator?

what do u propose as a drive mechanism to the front hub wheel?
 
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