Is chain upgrade a "standard"?

[mbmystery]

Getting my bike going, and like most, having issues with chain slack, tension, tensioner etc... Alignment is pretty good, just getting the right amount of tension/slack is a little tricky. Haven't fiddled with it too much since reading about chain tensioner/ issues & upgrading to 415 chain etc.

The question is, is it best to just go ahead and upgrade the chain to size 415 before proceeding? Is there a certain brand and/or model# anyone can recommend? (Lots of other things with the engine kit were faulty or substandard, needed replacement).
I have the hub adapter sprocket, skyhawk gt2 frame, ghost racer engine.

I also bought the chain "tuggers" similar to what my real motorcycles all had for chain tension adjustment. Anyone else using them rather than the idler type tensioners?

So far, just tried the kit supplied idler/tensioner. I can see why it's tricky and critical to have it perfect. (but it's not the easiest thing in the world, -what works for some doesn't work for others & vice versa)

Thanks

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Mods please move this to Drivetrain section

I don't know why you are not getting lots of replies. Drivetrains are good tinkering fun.

I think the chain that came with the kit is awful, and I will not fit it. But then, I will be taking my time getting my bike built.
"Everyone" says the kit chain stretches. Literally stretches. I am sure that the change in pitch can't be good.

I am going to have to grind the drive sprocket to fit a 1/8" bmx chain, since at the speed it runs it can't possibly need the strength of the heavy 415 kit chain. I thought Sick Bike Parts were going to start selling a quality 410 replacement for the eccentric 415 kit drive sprocket but it hasn't happened yet.

Anyway I'm going with the Sick Bike Parts shift kit and one product that stands out is their right hand side chain tensioner. It has two pulleys connected by a spring and the whole thing pivots freely so it can function perfectly when the chain is being driven by the lower sprocket (in the usual use this would be the chainring while pedal starting).

I believe it is a good design for use on the left side of direct drive bikes that have the chainstay clearance for the lower return side of the chain to be in a straight line. I don't know why no one is trying it. But I'm not building a direct drive so this is just a suggestion for your consideration and for discussion purposes.

It would be a lot like having no tensioner pulley thing, but easier to set up alongside a single speed pedal chain, it would deal with the eccentric drive sprocket, and it self adjusts for wear on the engine chain. Your axle tugger jobbies will deal with the pedal side if you are doing a single speed pedal drive.

It keeps tension on the return side of the chain, no matter which side is currently the return side. Other spring tensioned idlers that have only one pulley wheel cannot do that.
Because of the ability to freely swing when the chain function is reversed during startup and engine braking, the side of the chain under tension pulls straight, like it should. Therefore the bike will(?) be easier to pedal when the engine is not running, and it will(?) be easier to start, and it will never drag the tensioner into the tyre or rim.

Try it or discuss it further or whatever you like.

 

[panmines]

If you do decide to go with a 415 chain, you will have to grind away/cut a portion of the clutch arm cover. Since the chain is bigger, it hits the back wall of the cover. It is not too much of a hassle to do this and you won't be compromising anything by doing so.