Is my engine too rich or too lean? (pics + vid)

I am assuming of course that you have adjusted the throttle cable at both ends of it to take all the "Free Play" out of it too???
 
Yup... how it "feels" to me is that when the actual jet kicks in... BRRRRRR....

Hence the reason I suspect it may be an oversized jet in there.

I have an NT jet set. I should pull the BoFeng jet and compare the size of the hole to the sizes of the jet set I have.
 
I have an NT jet set. I should pull the BoFeng jet and compare the size of the hole to the sizes of the jet set I have.
Don't bother, the NT is not in the same league as the Bofeng is a larger MM size as regards it's threads as well as overall physical size and the NT is smaller thread size, it will never look the same size just by eye balling it because of the physical size of the outer portion.

Ps...I would just call Helio and ask them what is the actual jet size of the NT carby they sent you...If they tell you its #70, then its a stock jet, not the "larger jet" they claim in their adds.
 
looks a little heavy on oil ,, but i Just Do 40 to 1 Cradle to Grave ... (to much oil in brake-in time,,, can Give the Rings too much oil and Doesn't let them wear right ,, but You don't want it to dry , cuz then you get heat and A Heat Welding effect .. so its just Best to Go 40 to 1.. )
 
The BoFengs come stock with the #70 jet...I am assuming your at a 3000 ft altitude thereabouts and that your needle valve C clip is at the second notch to the TOP of the needle??? If so, Move it up to the very top notch and see what happens.
One thing I have different on my BoFeng than you do is a much better, non restrictive airfilter that is a no fuss direct replacement for those stock ones...Less restriction, more air, is much better to run at altitude.


You can see it on my motor here below, I'm at 4500 ft.

Gasoline makes all the difference in the world too...I use Ethanol-Free gas which burns and powers much better than the regular gas that now has 15% ethanol.

View attachment 178010
Hello again Sir, how you doing? I have the same frame as you and I have a question! Can you please send me a link to the disc brakes you have? Have a good one and thank you for your time Sir!!
 
Hello again Sir, how you doing? I have the same frame as you and I have a question! Can you please send me a link to the disc brakes you have? Have a good one and thank you for your time Sir!!
I'll do you better than that...Here is the tutorial I wrote sometime back that has links to most everything I used on my bike including the mags and disk brakes that actually came with the mags since you need the 160mm disk rotor for the front and the 203mm rotor for the rear so it can clear the 36 tooth sprocket that also comes with the mag wheels...If your gonna use a bigger sprocket you gonna have major problems trying to fit a disk caliper onto the rotor because the chain and sprocket will be in the way.

With "New Or-lins" being at sea level and sometimes below, the 36 tooth will be ideal since everything is pretty much all flatland there and you will have some good top end speed and better fuel mileage as well.

The disk brake set up as well as the 36 tooth sprocket actually comes with the mag rims as you will see in the link I have provided below.

Everything I did, they way I did it was all measured out in advance before I even built it...You may not have satisfactory results unless you duplicate everything I did and the way I had to put it all together so everything would fit and actually work...Especially pay apt attention to just how I had to "stretch" the rear frame area to accomodate the wheel with the sprocket and rotor on it as it is the only way its gonna fit...lol...Enjoy.


My own personal bike building motto:

"It is one thing to just strap a motor on a bicycle and expect it to work, It is quite another thing to carefully and methodically and mathematically build a motorised bicycle that actually DOES work"...DAMIEN
 
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