is the rear wheel supposed to move with good force when clutch is engaged

[Glenng]

Is the rear wheel supposed to move with good force when clutch is not pressed?
when i push the bike with good force without pressing the clutch it moves forward an inch or two and makes a burping noise.
Is this normal i think i remember the rear wheel being totally locked and unable to spin at all when not pressing on the clutch.
The rear wheel had locked up due to the chain being stretched too long right before. didn't shorten the chain yet but it is still on the wheel sprocket.

 

[crassius]

if I'm understanding what you're saying, that sounds like the chain is turning the motor properly - does it roll freely when clutch is pulled?

 

[Frankenstein]

Well, start with the clutch cable and the lever on the motor, if you are using that dumb spring that pre-tensions it (between clutch cable housing block and lever with the screw in it) remove that, just pull the lever tought on the cable and try to make it parallel to the engine casing.

Once you have little play in the clutch cable move to the flower nut in the clutch housing and adjust if the clutch still has unusually high resistance on the wheel. It's normal for a small amount of extra resistance from the chain with the clutch off, but it shouldn't be much at all. If the motor is out of alignment that adds to the chain drag, as well as a too tight chain or a tensioner out of skew.

I'd start by making that cable snug without a spring over it, if it's tight before becoming parallel then you may have to press the lever in and tighten the flower nut to get the rod and bearing inside to move in a bit, gives a bit more pressure on the clutch too when dumping it.

 

[Glenng]

The flower nut was a little loose. It started and ran. But after the straight pipe you need to give it gas to start the engine. Not sure if it has too much 2 cycle fluid or the flower nut needs more tightening. But it really really runs beautifully. Faster than it has ever been

 

[Frankenstein]

Opening the throttle helps it start since you let the main jet feed the fuel rather than the idle circuit jet which provides too little fuel. When you remove the muffler innards you have less backpressure to help keep that chamber full of rich mixture when starting, some carbs use a separate circuit when the choke is engaged which overcomes the need for holding the throttle open a bit.

Your motor isn't going to last as long since now you are running leaner than normal, which is why it feels like it's running so good, it's just doing what is normal for a 2s. If you want to leave it I'd stick to 25:1 mix or even a tad heavier, the oil will help keep the motor from frying.

 

[Glenng]

thank god i got alot of oil. i might remove the heat wrap on the bottom end and just wrap the exhaust pipe. is there any carbs that can output more fuel

 

[Frankenstein]

thank god i got alot of oil. i might remove the heat wrap on the bottom end and just wrap the exhaust pipe. is there any carbs that can output more fuel

Just get a larger jet, you'll be hard pressed to get something higher than an 85 to run in one of these, and that requires some heavy fine tuning and modifications.

If you up it until the fuel ratio is correct again you'll basically be riding what you were riding before removing parts of the muffler, just using more fuel to do so.

 

[Glenng]

what jet would you recommend

 

[CrazyDan]

I'm a fan of drilling out my jet with micro drill bits instead of waiting for a jet set. Step up slowly and run it around the block on a cheap new plug and kill it while wide open throttle. You could eyeball the plug and know roughly where you are at or hacksaw it to do a proper plug chop.

 

[Glenng]

the bike will start poping and backfiring alot more with the more fuel when i hit the button. thought i blew up my engine the other day but in reality my rear wheels bearings got damaged. going to fix and i also removed all the heat wrap from the engine block and the exhaust. will probably wrap the exhaust again