is there a Beach Cruiser style frame that's specifically made for Motorized bikes?

Yeah, I'll be honest i'm not familiar with bike history/models.

Basically I mean does anyone create a motorized-ready frame that resembles this style of cruisers. View attachment 229521

like I planned to buy 2-3 of the OCC-Style Stingray frames to save as back ups incase my current one ever breaks since I know they don't make them anymore. I was just wondering if there was a cruiser style frame that's already good for a long-lasting motorized bike set up. I only ride on the street, so it doesn't need to withstand large abuse, but my goal was to try and get something that can last for several years if not my lifetime.
Not to add for too much info, but there's a chance you could find a more modern version of the old Schwinn Electro-Forged frames or complete bikes from the early to mid 1980's. Certainly the old Schwinn Heavy-Duti worksman type industrial bikes, and the later 26" cruiser wheel sized Schwinn Sidewinder MTB's They all have rather smaller diameter main frame tubes than the engine frame mountings were made for.

The best bikes for convertng over would be early to mid 1980's, steel framed mountain bikes. And since some of these bikes have achieved collector status, at least in the high end categories, it would be better concentrating on the older Ross, Mogoose, BCA, Fuji, Norco, Miyata, Centurion, etc, Japanese and Taiwan made mid to entry level MTB bikes is where I'd start looking. These bikes having one or more main frame tubes of Chrome Moly tubing is a plus if you can find them. As a general rule these bikes have the "V" styled frame that these bike engine kit makers are calling for and they should drop in without much adapting. You'll want to concentrate on bikes with 18" frames and bigger.
Nishiki-grey-cascade..jpg


Mongoose84.jpg

vintage-1984-schwinn-sierra-mountain_1_4a7f93affb14256c8e3a9c91c22ea12d.jpg
vintage-1984-schwinn-sierra-mountain_1_4a7f93affb14256c8e3a9c91c22ea12d.jpg
 
Found one on one of the online marketplaces for $150. He said he would take $100.
That's a very good deal. Around my area everyone is too broke to buy ine it the first place, so I have to drive at least 4 hours to get one on top of paying alot for it
 
Not to add for too much info, but there's a chance you could find a more modern version of the old Schwinn Electro-Forged frames or complete bikes from the early to mid 1980's. Certainly the old Schwinn Heavy-Duti worksman type industrial bikes, and the later 26" cruiser wheel sized Schwinn Sidewinder MTB's They all have rather smaller diameter main frame tubes than the engine frame mountings were made for.

The best bikes for convertng over would be early to mid 1980's, steel framed mountain bikes. And since some of these bikes have achieved collector status, at least in the high end categories, it would be better concentrating on the older Ross, Mogoose, BCA, Fuji, Norco, Miyata, Centurion, etc, Japanese and Taiwan made mid to entry level MTB bikes is where I'd start looking. These bikes having one or more main frame tubes of Chrome Moly tubing is a plus if you can find them. As a general rule these bikes have the "V" styled frame that these bike engine kit makers are calling for and they should drop in without much adapting. You'll want to concentrate on bikes with 18" frames and bigger.

vintage-1984-schwinn-sierra-mountain_1_4a7f93affb14256c8e3a9c91c22ea12d.jpg
The small tube isn't am issue if you make your own front mout like I did. I plan to get real good pictures of my bike tomorrow. I'll get some good pictures of the parts I've made too
 
The small tube isn't am issue if you make your own front mout like I did. I plan to get real good pictures of my bike tomorrow. I'll get some good pictures of the parts I've made too
I'm using an old J.C. Higgins 3 speed made by Steyr from 1957. In this picture I'm using 1" PVC irrigation pipe pieces to fit the engine to the frame it's great, tight lashup. This bike is typical for most European bikes from 1950 and 1960, English threaded ( not Whitworth...) headset and bottom bracket means an easy conversion from it's cottered cranks to an alloy crankset and better headset. The Austrian steel it's built with has always felt to me like their bikes were kinda livlier and a bit faster and handled well, also lighter than your typical 1950's Nottingham made Raleigh/Hercules 3 speed frame. Mine has been previously modded for my father who wanted a bike he could ride downtown.
JC-Higgins-2.JPG
 
I ended up buying a Hyper Cruiser, but I ran into an issue with the rear part of the frame. I can't install the rim brake because there isn't a whole. Given it's such a small area though, and I know there is already a hole for the fender. Idk if I want to actually drill into it, so I can install the rear brake. I'm gonna try to install disc brakes I guess. but this thing 100% looks beefier then my previous firmstrong frame.
 
but this thing 100% looks beefier then my previous firmstrong frame.
In most cases so far, that is the same thing most people have to say. It IS beefier, that was my first reaction when I had it side by side with my broken frame Huffy just before sending that broken POS to the landfill 5 years ago...lol...lol.

Be sure to read my tutorial for instructions on mounting rear disk on the Hyper...Also be aware that the 203mm disk rotor is the standard size to use and be sure that the sprocket is a 36 tooth sprocket or you won't make the clearance needed.

I have instructions for doing this if you need them, just ask unless you have already discovered them.
 
In most cases so far, that is the same thing most people have to say. It IS beefier, that was my first reaction when I had it side by side with my broken frame Huffy just before sending that broken POS to the landfill 5 years ago...lol...lol.

Be sure to read my tutorial for instructions on mounting rear disk on the Hyper...Also be aware that the 203mm disk rotor is the standard size to use and be sure that the sprocket is a 36 tooth sprocket or you won't make the clearance needed.

I have instructions for doing this if you need them, just ask unless you have already discovered them.
Can you share them with me please, I haven't finished putting it back together yet, so I wanted to look into all this before I purchase/buy anything.
 
Can you share them with me please, I haven't finished putting it back together yet, so I wanted to look into all this before I purchase/buy anything.

I don't recommend this method on an aluminum frame because it would probably crack and break, but this is what i did on my Steel Frame Hyper Beach Cruiser to accomodate the rear sprocket and disk to fit within the dropouts and frame as well as the chain staying clear of the chain stays.

On my bike, (steel frame ONLY), i had to "stretch" the rear forks apart by hand, about 1/2 an inch to put the rear wheel with sprocket/rotor attached, and then use a spare 15MM axle nut on the sprocket/rotor inside of the drop down, threaded to the axle with blue locktite, to maintain that amount of "stretch" to accommodate the amount of of clearance space the rotor needs so as not to be pressed against the frame.

It helps to have a buddy with a strong pair of hands to help in this proceedure like I did...lol.


EDIT Monday, July 10th, 2023:
This link below will show you how to make a frame stretcher tool for spreading the rear of the frame if your going to use mag rims with disk brakes on your bike.....
Beware, do NOT attempt stretching aluminum frames as they will crack and break.


And this link showing pics of how it is used to stretch the frame.

A pair of these adaptors (2), one for the front, one for the rear, will also be necessary, or something like them since you may or may not be able to make your own frame to disk caliper adaptors as i have done.


And a dual brake lever for the disk brakes since you already have the clutch lever taking up real estate on the left side of the handle bars...lol...You will need brake cables from your local bicycle shop as well to connect the brakes.


This is the actual main tutorial below that has not only these instructions but many others that can be found for other things you may need to know to build a solid motorised bike.

 
I haven't finished putting it back together yet, so I wanted to look into all this before I purchase/buy anything.
Very good as there is always more to learn and thus minimise the mistakes most folks make when building these...I have a simple and favourite motto for building one of these beasties...lol...lol.

"It is one thing to just strap a motor on a bicycle and expect it to work, It is quite another thing to carefully, methodically and mathematically, (whilst keeping the laws of physics in mind), to build a motorised bicycle that actually DOES work"...DAMIEN

A little bit of prayer doesn't hurt either...lol.
 
"It is one thing to just strap a motor on a bicycle and expect it to work, It is quite another thing to carefully, methodically and mathematically, (whilst keeping the laws of physics in mind), to build a motorised bicycle that actually DOES work"...DAMIEN
Overthinking this just a wee bit, ya think?
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