Is this catastrophic?

[Chrisingippy]

We have very good consumer laws here. A major failure entitles the purchaser to a replacement or full refund. The seller (not manufacturer) bares the responsibility. They take it up with the manufacturer. The fact it has 24 miles on it and clearly shows no sign of abuse and use of 'correct' oil mix makes.it hard for them to dispute. They can test the fuel if needed.
I might look into buying another engine casing and salvage everything for a second engine..
It hasn't been apart so they can't blame me for overtightening anything either..

 

[Chrisingippy]

Break in with non synthetic conventional

Semi synthetic ok? I have semi and full synthetic..

 

[Street Ryderz]

We have very good consumer laws here. A major failure entitles the purchaser to a replacement or full refund. The seller (not manufacturer) bares the responsibility. They take it up with the manufacturer. The fact it has 24 miles on it and clearly shows no sign of abuse and use of 'correct' oil mix makes.it hard for them to dispute. They can test the fuel if needed.
I might look into buying another engine casing and salvage everything for a second engine..
It hasn't been apart so they can't blame me for overtightening anything either..

I agree you are lucky to get a replacement because those laws don't mean s**t to most and they cover themselves in the fine print! The fact that it has 24 miles and that wash pattern on the piston tells a very clear story, you revved a non loaded engine. These engines are cheap and thus have to be treated with a bit of common sense and care as there is a plethora of thing that can and will go wrong,and you can't tune you're bike on a stand it needs to be loaded and ridden.

 

[darwin]

Semi synthetic ok? I have semi and full synthetic..

2 things st ick out in my belief in quality syn oil. 1 is my chevy truck, 16yo, 60k on the clock. W/dino oil my top end has an endless tick tick tick. Worried the hell out of me. Someone suggested trying syn way back and the tick is no more, never. Sounds like a new motor. Syn will get to the top of the motor in amounts that the motor was designed for. Dino is just way too thick even 5-30 on a warm sunny day. Made a believer out of me. The other issue was reading about high end BMW motors w/2 camshafts and the driving cam gears are made out of some nylon[?]. A lot of those motors were driving crappy and after only 60k on the clock a few model years BMW figured out it was a lack of oil getting to those drive cams. Folks were cheaping out on the oil they used and that was the cause effect. We're talking 7 grand/+ to tear that motor apart and fix it, complicated MFer. Very few shops can tear it apart and put it back together according to specs. BMW is serious about the oil to be used and mobil one syn is the no1 suggested oil to use besides the dealer house oil which is probably mobil or castrol[?]. Think about it, makes sense to me if a billion $ co thinks that way there must be a damn good reason. Even American cars from the factory use full syn now and recommend it.

 

[Vikingimike01]

Darwin, please don't forget this engine is based on a really old soviet one and I don't think they really thought about using full synthetic oil back then... Just use what you can, I prefer semi synthetic because it's the cheapest.

 

[Chrisingippy]

Hi Guys,
I thought I'd share what I found out today.
I have already received a replacement engine from the seller who provided the kit, but I wanted to know what had gone wrong. The new engine came without mounting studs so I was going to take the old ones out and use them until I could get new ones, but, once I started pulling things apart, I just kept going.
I was expecting to find something broken in the crankcase but didn't. I left the piston on the rod until I had the whole crank out of the engine.

The failure.... the piston pin snapped in half and the castings of the piston were the bits I reported earlier. Some will assume this is the result of engine abuse. I found something else out and I believe it was the cause of everything. The answer is in the photos, or rather, its not in one of the photos and should be....
Who can work it out?

 

[Oddball Matt]

Man, never seen a wrist pin snap before... So the casting pieces WERE exactly where I thought they'd be from after all. Never seen one of these engines taken apart but that shaft in pic three looks a lot like the thing that bolts onto it has spun so my guess for the missing part is a woodruff key?

 

[Chrisingippy]

Matt, you got it in one! I removed the magneto coil and expected to be able to just lift the magnet off. It wasn't having it. I had to unscrew it and pull at the same time. It took ages. When it finally came off, I realised that it wasn't meant to be screwed on. You can see at the base of the crankshaft where it has been slipping. I'm thinking that the magnet has altered the timing to the point where it was firing on the compression stroke before TDC. A couple of times i thought I'd heard pinking but dismissed it.
There is a small chunk out of one of the crank weights when it locked up, but otherwise, everything else is undamaged. It explains why i couldn't get it to run well, 4 stroking, a high speed miss on occasion and some surging..