Itty bitty exhaust

[Frankenstein]

I would think that being so small or short of a run that the exit temp would still be quite high with not much to wick away heat in between.I take temp readings at different lenghts of the exhaust with my hand held sensor and the average at the port is 550 f on a stock engine and ten inches away from the port is still in the high 300's even low 400's and of course that will vari with how restrictive the pipe is.

Good point, and even then jb weld isn't the best conductor of heat, if you leave it chopped together and put jb weld between the 2 metal parts the epoxy will insulate some heat from excaping the first part of the header, leading to even more heat build up.

 

[Frankenstein]

Is the answer still an astounding no?

 

[butre]

exhaust temps on an aluminum air cooled 2 stroke can reach about 1200 degrees before it becomes an issue. maybe less with this mystery metal they use for china girls.

vibration is what's gonna kill the jb weld long before the heat will anyway.

 

[Frankenstein]

exhaust temps on an aluminum air cooled 2 stroke can reach about 1200 degrees before it becomes an issue. maybe less with this mystery metal they use for china girls.

vibration is what's gonna kill the jb weld long before the heat will anyway.

Yay it's still no!

 

[Baconator101]

Since we're on the subject of Exhaust. On the generic 66cc 2 stroke kits. I always use the stock muffler, and have never used the that flimsy muffler clamp provided in the kit. It's flimsy but I guess it would buffer vibration . Have any of you folks ever broken a stock muffler due to lack of that clamp? Or am I the only CLOWN to not use that clamp?

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

I've used steel putty epoxy well on fuel and exhaust for temporary fixes. Lasts a few months and rattles off. Vibration is the worst add a little heat and it accelerates that damage.

I'm going to actually wrap aluminum and putty like 5 alternating layers and the joint will hold fine with hose clamps. I dont have soda cans today or I would have done it already.

Baconator, I decided no clamp on my first kit and have just stuck with it. My theory on the reason it is there is so if your exhaust rots off or falls off it doesn't end up in the roadway.

 

[Baconator101]

I've used steel putty epoxy well on fuel and exhaust for temporary fixes. Lasts a few months and rattles off. Vibration is the worst add a little heat and it accelerates that damage.

I'm going to actually wrap aluminum and putty like 5 alternating layers and the joint will hold fine with hose clamps. I dont have soda cans today or I would have done it already.

Baconator, I decided no clamp on my first kit and have just stuck with it. My theory on the reason it is there is so if your exhaust rots off or falls off it doesn't end up in the roadway.

How long did you use that first kit?

 

[DuctTapedGoat]

How long did you use that first kit?

First kit was in 2007, crashed into a Jeep Wrangler that pulled out in front of me one day and blew the motor mounts. It folded my forks so hard the tire was past the frame. Lasted me a year and then I used it for spare parts.

 

[Baconator101]

First kit was in 2007, crashed into a Jeep Wrangler that pulled out in front of me one day and blew the motor mounts. It folded my forks so hard the tire was past the frame. Lasted me a year and then I used it for spare parts.

Now that's a bummer. Did they pay for your bike atleast? Or did they flee?

 

[Frankenstein]

Clamp is a good idea not just for the mufflers integrity but also the cylinder and bolts that hold it there. A pound of steel on the end of 2 small bolts can be straining when the bike is shaking as much as it does on the road with an engine, the clamp just helping to keep the muffler from prying itself off will save on leak related issues, and stop you from having numerous exhaust stud related issues. It can litteraly be the difference between needing high grade steel and excessive locktite and just simple stock grade stuff.

If you have an excessively shaky motor that just vibrates a lot then you may want to look into more formidable clamps or plain fixing the motor since that vibration really seems to kill solid pipe mufflers, anything with a flex tube close to the port (or before anything that gets clamped) seems you have less problems with muffler related issues.

I'm considering when installing the bullet train that I will cut the original pipe in two and then use flex pipe to give myself the assurance that I won't need to deal with my pipe taking a dump on itself.