Urban Fatbiker
Well-Known Member
Attached are pics where I modified original bracket and clamps. Its sized large enough to grip tube with flexible PVC sleeve (well pipe). U used the clamp brackets from original U-clamps, welded standoffs, clamshells, and all to the bracket.
The outside clamps came from pipe anchors I happen to have.
Even a good mcmaster shaft fits loose in quality PGN bearings. (I saw the unwarranted grief SBP got for their shafts. I also saw prices for close-tolerance shafts, no one is paying that). Unless you want to press in a hi-tolerance shaft, next best answer is to sandwich both sides of sprocket / bearing points.
I set up everything, marked, disassembled, then drilled recess dimples for every set screw on sprockets and collars. It should be only deep enough to capture the cup point of set screw. Feather edges before reassembly.
You absolutely must use a third bearing plate and a chain tensioner. Otherwise, you'll never be able to rigidly lock engine to bracket, always having to readjust. And, no anchor on LH side means too much leverage on RH side. That's what starts everything breaking loose.
Same for RH side, screw moving engine to adjust chain! Two simple mods, one complex mod, its a world of difference. I've literally done NOTHING to it since, now 250 miles of abusive riding. It literally runs thru gears like a speedbike.
