Jackshaft kit pros and cons?

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Hey on a stock motor what's the pros and cons of a jackass kit with a stock motor?

Thinking of buying one on "one condition."

By ditching the 44t sprocket will I get more top speed and range options?


Current top speed is 23mph with assistance and no I'm not finding any flaws in the tuning plugs perfect.

Milk Chocolate brown

 
Pros:
The obvious benefits that come from having gears
No tire or fender clearance issues
Easier on the engine
Easier on the rear wheel
Rear disc brakes

Cons:
Takes more finagling to get everything right
Added complexity = more things that can fail
Power loss from the added chains, shaft and bearings. 36t on the right side would be inherently slower than a 36t on the left side.
 
Pros:
The obvious benefits that come from having gears
No tire or fender clearance issues
Easier on the engine
Easier on the rear wheel
Rear disc brakes

Cons:
Takes more finagling to get everything right
Added complexity = more things that can fail
Power loss from the added chains, shaft and bearings. 36t on the right side would be inherently slower than a 36t on the left side.


Sounds the exact same as with no shift kit.


In addition I think I need a 48t sprocket instead of 44t to help top speed.
 
How so?



You need a sprocket with fewer teeth if you want a higher top speed. More teeth will give you more low-end torque.


Yeah I'm at bay over here some people on the forum think I have a mechanical problem but plugs don't lie, I'm not lean or rich it's got to be a sprocket issue. Some say I have a leak but I don't see nothing wrong but then again I'm not a 26 inch or a 24 I'm a 700c inbetween.

I have "no" idea what direction to go in..
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/zeda-88-muffler-on-50cc.51905/#post-455338

Which is why I want to jump to mods cause ant nothing wrong.
 
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Yeah I'm at bay over here some people on the forum think I have a mechanical problem but plugs don't lie, I'm not lean or rich it's got to be a sprocket issue.
That doesn't mean there's no mechanical problems.. What engine are you using? How many miles? How much do you weigh?
 
That doesn't mean there's no mechanical problems.. What engine are you using? How many miles? How much do you weigh?


A50, 50cc BR6HS NGK, about 4 or 6 tanks worth, first two were 16:1 87 octane 1st gallon.

Next 24:1 second two tanks where 24-25:1 87 octane slightly off oil mix ratios second gallon.

Last up to date 40:1 92 octane tank totaling to 5-6 tanks, I'm still on the first tank of 40:1 partial half of a half a gallon still in their.



In between somewhere after from the first two tanks I think I did a 92 octane mix 16:1...

150-154lbs varying from time to time..



700c wheels 622 x20 at the rim as indicated, 700c x 38c tires.

Be advised this is not bigger then 26 inch wheel but not smaller then a 24 it's in between.

It doesn't stall or backfire and my idles fairly low except at warm up or down n choke the she idles down plugs a sexy milk chocolate brown.


It's a cat in a bag waiting to be let out.
 

The bike riding with me here is a 50cc with stock gear,stock speed carb,No tuned pipe (expansion chamber)stock stator and rotor,stock cdi and wire with the stock boot also the stock cheap ass spark plug.with a 180 lbs 6ft 2" rider upright holding at 30 mph on grades at 3/4 throttle.WE keep trying to tell you something is not right with your set up, There is no added performance parts on this bike in the video and it's capable of going twice the speed of your's with no issue and no assistance needed to do it!Take the advise so many have given you and find the problem.
 
700c (622mm) is bigger than 26" (559mm) by the way.

Having the right plug colour just means your a/f ratio is about normal. That isn't tuning, and it isn't any indication of how much a/f mixture is actually getting combusted.

Two stroke tuning is about FLOW more than any other thing.
You can port your engine, and change your air filter.
Then look at raising the compression.
Then all the other minor stuff.
 
I have one, that I should have seen coming: With the jackshaft kit, you can't use momentum to start the gas engine, you have to kick start with the pedals while rolling, or pedal and start while somehow gaining speed. I have an electric hub motor on the front end, and used that to start the gas engine, but that is still a momentum start, and I couldn't do it with the jackshaft kit. You HAVE to kickstart it with the pedals, which is a pain. And coaster brakes are out, too. At least I saw that coming.
The third time I rode with the jackshaft, I failed to get the engine started the first try, and lost too much speed, so I ended up pedaling the bike, with all the weight, in addition to trying to kickstart the engine, and it broke the sprag clutch, and ended the project completely.
The bike will roll even with the clutch engaged, and the engine off. In that state, only the pedals are connected to the engine, and that's the only way to start the engine. The only reason to disengage the clutch is to pedal without the engine, so you aren't pedaling the engine, but it doesn't effect the bike's ability to roll because of the freewheel, and you can't turn the engine with the wheel to use momentum to turn the engine. Hard one to explain. But this was a big deal for me, weather you realize it or not, you mostly use momentum to start the engine. You don't try to start the engine whilst pedaling away from a dead stop, do you? No, you get moving first. With the kit, you have to either do the same thing as starting while pedaling, or get more speed going then coast faster than you have to pump the pedals to kickstart the engine. It's a pain, and the first time I accidentally tried pedaling and starting at the same time, it broke, that's a huge load.

Just to be fair, here, I bought the cheap, Chinese kit, not the real SBP kit, which is a lot better quality. But I'm glad I did, I just didn't like it, since it made my bike entirely too hard to start, where it was effortless before, I wasted less money this way.
 
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