ghost pedaler
New Member
First things first. What mixture should I start out for the break-in?
Just bought the kit and build progress
- Thread starter ghost pedaler
- Start date
professor
Active Member
Gas and oil.
Hey, Ghost, welcome to Motoredbikes!
I don't have one, but have read a lot of posts and you can't go wrong following your kit's directions.
Hey, Ghost, welcome to Motoredbikes!
I don't have one, but have read a lot of posts and you can't go wrong following your kit's directions.
AussieSteve
Active Member
Yep.
Generally, about 16:1 is recommended for break-in, then 20:1 forever. (That's what's recommended with many kits.)
Many will argue, but I've done that and never had problems. Plug never oils up and is always light tan in colour.
Generally, about 16:1 is recommended for break-in, then 20:1 forever. (That's what's recommended with many kits.)
Many will argue, but I've done that and never had problems. Plug never oils up and is always light tan in colour.
ghost pedaler
New Member
Sounds good to me. Roughly, on these motors, whats the mileage range for the break-in?
AussieSteve
Active Member
The instructions with my kit recommended 500km.
Generally, though, 3-4 tankfuls will pretty well do it.
Don't baby it too much - rev it out a little, but don't hammer it yet.
Generally, though, 3-4 tankfuls will pretty well do it.
Don't baby it too much - rev it out a little, but don't hammer it yet.
ghost pedaler
New Member
3-4 tanks sounds ideal. Since you can probably pull 85 - 110 mpg.
Fabian
Well-Known Member
I've been a strong advocate of 20:1 fuel/oil ratio, but others have spoken glowing praise of 50:1 or even 100:1.
Even at 50:1, a percentage of cooling is lost as there is far less oil to absorb heat, a particularly important aspect when travelling at 5 miles an hour on a 100 degree (40 degrees celcius) day with the engine struggling it's guts out on a steep hill and virtually no forward air flow - it's cooking away and the oil is playing an important part in removing heat.
I'm not sure how the engine would cope with that scenario at 100:1
I've never had plug fouling issues with 20:1 and that's using an NGK BP8HS
The only time i've noticed the BP8HS struggle to stay at operating temperature is when idling for a long time whilst cleaning and lubricating the chain.
Oil naturally falls out of suspension and settles in the crankcase and when the throttle is opened the plug gets a good oil wash and struggles to clear it's throat blowing it out the system- that's the worst it gets.
Fabian
Even at 50:1, a percentage of cooling is lost as there is far less oil to absorb heat, a particularly important aspect when travelling at 5 miles an hour on a 100 degree (40 degrees celcius) day with the engine struggling it's guts out on a steep hill and virtually no forward air flow - it's cooking away and the oil is playing an important part in removing heat.
I'm not sure how the engine would cope with that scenario at 100:1
I've never had plug fouling issues with 20:1 and that's using an NGK BP8HS
The only time i've noticed the BP8HS struggle to stay at operating temperature is when idling for a long time whilst cleaning and lubricating the chain.
Oil naturally falls out of suspension and settles in the crankcase and when the throttle is opened the plug gets a good oil wash and struggles to clear it's throat blowing it out the system- that's the worst it gets.
Fabian
Last edited:
AussieSteve
Active Member
The other good reason for a high oil concentration is that it improves the piston-ring to cylinder wall seal, especially in these horribly made little engines.
Fabian
Well-Known Member
Completely agree with your comment: The other good reason for a high oil concentration is that it improves the piston-ring to cylinder wall seal, especially in these horribly made little engines.
ghost pedaler
New Member
Well, I got the kit in the mail today.
I made sure that the screws were tight on the carburetor. I was curious to see what was in the bottom of the carb so, I removed the 2 screws from that cap and saw that there is a plastic round piece in there. I put that round plastic part back in and then screwed the cap back in. But, now it rattles around in the cap?? That can't be right. Was that supposed tensioned in there or something??
I made sure that the screws were tight on the carburetor. I was curious to see what was in the bottom of the carb so, I removed the 2 screws from that cap and saw that there is a plastic round piece in there. I put that round plastic part back in and then screwed the cap back in. But, now it rattles around in the cap?? That can't be right. Was that supposed tensioned in there or something??
Attachments
Last edited:
Similar threads
