just finished, o.c.c. chopper build

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by motorpsycho, Jul 29, 2010.

  1. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    80 c.c. 2 stroke, custom exhaust,(cut up & welded back together) modified muffler, modified engine mount (i used barry's mount off e-bay, but modified it a little), custom gas tank from a jesse james chopper bicycle, all seams, holes & gaps welded closed, fuel pipes added to both sides, smoothed out with bondo, custom metallic black laquer and clear coat, custom made vented gas cap, clear fuel lines with an in line filter, and in line shut off valve.
    I painted the cylinder with gloss black hi-temp engine enamel, polished the side covers on the engine, made a chrome stack for the carb. and used the stock filter element inside of it.
    shortened the throttle and clutch cables, made my own hidden chain tensioner, modified the rear brake caliper to clear the chain, made a new spark plug wire from an accell 8 m.m. superstock wire, with a 90 degree rubber automotive boot on the end. 10 speed seat on a custom seat post to fit the o.c.c. seat post tube, spaced out the left peddle so it would clear the engine case. 41 tooth rear sprocket, rear wheel chain adjusters added to the rear axle, no front brakes, no front fender, modified rear fender to make it sit lower than stock. all wires soldered together, and covered with heat shrink.
    just got it running tonight, and it runs perfect.
    i can already tell that this one is going to be faster than my lowrider (which has a 50 c.c. 2 stroke on it). the rear tire on the chopper measures 24" tall from the floor to the top of the tire. the rear tire on my lowride measures 21" from the floor to the top of the tire. so the difference in rear tire size, is giving me a higher gear ratio. i rode it down the street, and at 1/4 throttle, i was probably doing close to 20 mph...i can tell that htis one wants to just go.
    i made a lot of custom peices for this bike to make it all work right AND look good. this is my second m.b., but my 3rd. m.b. build.
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2010
    Street Ryderz likes this.

  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    I say it came out excellent!
  3. Hawaii_Ed

    Hawaii_Ed Member

    Looks slick! that pedal chian is pretty loose!
  4. james65

    james65 Member


    I clocked it for 60 MPh just sitting there.
    Big thumbs up!
  5. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I'm not too concerned with the peddle chain....i don't peddle it, and i use the peddles just for foot rests. I just got it done last night, and i rode it twice. i still need to do a few tiny things to it, and it does need a full link taken out, and probably a half link put in to make it right...but it doesn't fall off the way it is.
  6. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    Looks great. Add a front brake to help protect you and your investment.

    TREEWK Member


    Camera Out Of Focus, But Bike Looks Great. The Tank Is A Really Great Touch!! Looks Much More Natural. How Did You Do Your Motor Mount?

  8. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    i know...it was a late night and the camera (more like me) was having a tough time focusing...lol i was going to get better pics of it today in the sunlight, but i just had too many things to do.
    I will try for better pics tomorrow.
    I am also going to re-do the gas lines, and filter because i am not 100% happy with the way they are right now.
    as for the mount, i used barry's mount (a guy on e-bay makes the mounts and sells them) but my engine has the big mount in the front (for bigger than standard front down tubes). so, my big front mount was too big for the pipe that barry welds to his mounts.
    so i had to weld 2 peices of pipe over the pipe that he welded on. I had to use 2 peices of pipe, so that all 3 peices fit together snug and each pipe is welded to the mount.
    with this mount, you have to drill holes in the frame for two 3/8" bolts to go through the frame. i really didn't want to drill the frame...but i had to to make the mount work, and so it is adjustable side to side, front and back.
    so to add some strength back to the frame where i drilled the holes, i welded steel sleeves inside the frame where the bolts go through for the mount. the mount is 3 peices, and is sandwiches the bottom frame tube between 2 of the peices. with the steel sleeves welded into the frame, i think it should be ok, and they added a bunch of strength back to the frame. plus, with the steel sleeves, the bottom frame tube can not be crushed or distorted when the mount bolts are tightened up good and tight. i also smoothed out the welds on the mount when i got it (they were not the best welds i have seen), and i welded a second bead over the existing welds. i ground the welds down and put a layer of jb weld over the welds, just to smooth things out. i did not add the jb weld for strength, i just added it as a filler (like bondo)to make everything smooth and look nice.
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    a front brake? what's that?
    no REAL choppa' has a front brake...lol

    actually, i have modified the rear brake caliper and brake pads and now the rear brake works better than any other v-brakes i have ever seen.
    it stops on a dime with no problems.
    heck, my other mb has a coaster brake and no front brake, and it stops VERY well.
  10. TREEWK

    TREEWK Member


    Great Way To Do The Mount Frame Hole`s.

    It Reminds Me Of My Springer Fork On My Stretch Cruiser! The Pivot Bushing`s Are Pressed In And Are Now Loose, A Floppy Scary Situation!

    I Plan On Welding Them In With Some Small Dia Ss Rod. The Old Oringinal Forks Were Made Much Better, But Would Cost A Lot More Now.

    I Bought Some Aluminum Sleeve`s That I May Use On A Diy Scooter Guy Type Build, That Do Not Have Round Frame Tube`s.

    A Sleeve Is In The Center Of Pic, It Has A Split Collar Clamped On. Before Welding Them In, I Will Get Them Adjusted Sideways To Need Mimimum Of Spacer Washers When bolting on the motor plate. Thinking It Will Be A Neat Set Up.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  11. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    here's better pics. of my chopper.
    also a pic of my chopper and my lowrider. (note that the lowrider is missing the drive chain for the engine.) I needed to use use a few links out of it for the chopper chain. a new chain is on the way for the lowrider. i also re-did the gas lines on the chopper and i am now running 2 small fuel filters (one in each line coming out of the tank). i was also able to tighten up my peddle chain today, but i did that after this pic was taken,so it's still loose in this pic.
    plus, the lowrider will soon be getting a makeover. I am going to re-do all of the wiring to hide it better, and shorten the clutch and throttle cable to get rid of all the extra drooping slack.
    notice the difference in the height of the rear tires?
    this is why the chopper will have more top end speed than my lowrider.
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2010
  12. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    I'm in the middle of re-mouting the engine to the lowrider. I never liked the angle that it's sitting at in these pics. the carb is at a pretty drastic angle and it would flood over sometimes at w.o.t. (gas out the overflow tube.) i had to make a spacer plate to go between the rear engine mount (the aluminum bloock that goes around the seat post) and the engine block to get the mount at the right angle. now the engine is sitting in the frame straight and the carb. is level with the ground. I had to take the head off and turn it around because the spark plug was hitting the top frame tube. by turning the head around and having the plug angled to the front, i have all kinds of room now. when i first built it, i had no idea that i could turn the head around, so i just put it in the frame as best as i could at the time. I had to re-do the exhaust (one thing leads to another). I made a new muffler for it, and added a 7" section of chrome pipe between the exp. chamber and the muffler. I also made a support bracket to support the muffler. I used a stock, un-modified muffler to see how it works with the exp. chamber (but it might get modified later if it's too restrictive.) i'm going to shorten the cables and the re-do all of the wiring to try and hide it out of the way. i'm going to re-locate the cdi box and make a new spark plug wire for it too.
  13. TREEWK

    TREEWK Member


    Nice Pic`s And Super Builds. Suspension Banana Seat!! Thanks For Sharing. Ron
  14. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yeah, that suspension bannana seat is great combined with the springer front end.
    the lowrider got new muffler design last night, re-wired and shortened throttle cable. i also re-located the cdi box to a place where it isn't visible (under the engine)
    I like my builds to look clean...i hate wires and cables hanging all over the place.
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2010
  15. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    where did you get the fork for the chopper? I want to (eventually) get something that looks more motorcycle for mine
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    the forks on the chopper are the ones that came with it. They are the original schwinn o.c.c. forks. these are the early one tho (2004) that have no front fender, front brake or foot peg provisions.
    they later changed the forks to add a front brake, fender and fold down foot pegs. you can find these forks on e-bay fiarly cheap, but they are getting tough to find because this style is smooth with no welded on brackets or bolt holes.
    I just added a headlight and a tail light and they look really cool. the tail light is a bullet light with a chrome bezel and visor. I put 2 led lights in it, powered by 4 watch size batteries that are 1.5 volts each (6 volts total). the wiring is all hidden under the rear fender, and the batteries and on/off switch are hidden under the seat. The headlight is just one of those cheap tung-lin battery powered lights, but it's 3.5 inches in diameter. surprizingly, it's fairly bright for only being a 3 watt incandesent bulb. it has a "high beam" and a "low beam" (2 incadensent bulbs, one in the center of the light, and one at the top of the light. it's all just how the bulbs are aimed, there is no real high and low beams). it's powered by 2 AA batteries that are inside the headlight. i might upgrade it to take 3 led lights in place of the single incandesent bulb that's in the center of the headlight. i will take pics. of the bike with the lights on it tomorrow.
  17. Nice build i really like the tank and seat changes, made a really great looking bike. Is this a 24 inch chopper bike or was it a 26 inch frame and you just put on a 24 inch front wheel..To me the 26 wheel just is too big with the rear tire i like your combo alot.
  18. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    no, it's a 20" frame with the original 20 x 4 inch rear wheel & tire. the original rear tire is 24" tall because of the thick sidewall, and it's 3.75 inches wide. the front wheel is 24 x 2 with the original 24 x 2 occ stingray tire. and that's what came on these bikes when they were made as far as the wheel and tire combo.
    this is a 20" schwinn occ chopper frame, forks, handlebars, cranks, wheels and tires. a 20 inch front wheel would look way too small on the front of this bike because of the rake of the frame, and the way the forks are.
    the gas tank is from a jesse james west coast chopper bike, and i have a ton of work in the tank sealing it all up to make it actually hold gas.
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010
  19. ironman66

    ironman66 New Member

    being a 20'' bike how tall are you does it fit you good?
    was thinking of building one of these im 6'1''.
    do you know of what other sizes they sell in the occ bikes?
  20. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    well, i'm a little guy (5'6", 150 lbs) about the same size as your average 8th grader...lol.
    the bike fits me pretty good.
    they do make a schwinn spoiler chopper which is a longer bike. it is similar to the occ with a slightly different styled frame and a springer front end.
    The spolier uses the same 24" front wheel, and the 20 x4" rear wheel as the occ choppers.
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2010