Just Finished The Break-In Period

[MoonKS]

Hi all,

I hit 500 miles on my 07 NE5 last night. I have some observations and some questions -

1. The only performance mod I have done is to widen the restrictor plate opening to just a hair under 18mm. I can do 40 on a windless day on the flat roads (all roads are flat in the part of KS I live in) - oh, I also drilled a 1/16 hole in the plastic center on the inside of the fuel cap.

2. She runs better when it is colder outside (early morn) or when she's only been running for a few miles. The hotter the engine gets the more sluggish she is from a dead stop. She really bogs down and slow from a stop - until I hit around 22 MPH at which time she seems to hit a power band and really takes off quite nicely.

3. Blue LocTite - LOCTITE...LOCTITE...LOCTITE - screws, nuts, bolts coming loose are no longer an issue - and the blue LocTite isn't hard to loosen if you need to do so.

4. Change that 40 wt. oil often during break-in. After the first 50 then every 100 miles after that - you will be amazed at how dirty the oil gets initially....

5. CLEAN OUT YOUR GAS TANK ASAP - my bike came from the dealer with about 1/4 tank of gas - so I stopped and filled up - and a few weeks later after another fill-up or two - I noticed the fuel filter was disgustingly dirty - lots of large particulate matter. I looked into the gas tank and I swear it looks like someone used it to brew ground coffee - I even found two strips white plastic floating in there about 1/4" wide by 2 inches long!

6. If you do any performance mods and get your Whizzer going faster than 30 - be ever mindful that your drum brakes, while good, aren't like disc brakes.

7. Brake cables stretch a bit when they are new - adjust your drum brake tension at the lever - nothing worse than having your brakes work only if the brake levers are squeezed all the way to the grips.

8. Replace your stock Whizzer tubes - get high quality thorn resistant tubes - and make sure you know how to change a tube/tire properly without pinching off a tube (getting a snakebite).

9. Check you fuel level often - the Whizzer gets such great mileage that I forgot the check the level once and literally ran out of gas about a block from a gas station - and pedaling a block on a 97lb. bike isn't all that fun - it could have been much worse if I were further away

10. Always remember to turn the fuel petcock to Off when you park for a while - it's gravity fed so leaving it open can flood the carb.

11. Conversely, remember you turned that blasted petcock off before you spend the next 15 minutes pedaling your butt off trying to figure out why it started fine and ran for 20 seconds and now it won't start!

12. Get a better quality spark plug. I got my NGK Iridium but I haven't installed it yet (waiting until break-in was over) - but it's going in tonight and I have heard nothing but rave reviews from the people on the forums.

13. If your local Whizzer dealer doesn't seem to care about an issue you are having with your Whizzer - call Whizzer directly (www.whizzerusa.com) - everyone there is helpful, friendly, knowledgeable and they have great customer service.

14. The Whizzer is no ordinary motor bike - in my humble opinion, you can get performance out of them (with modifications) that put them in the early motorcycle class.

15. BE ALERT - because no one else is. Never expect anyone to see you - always be prepared for a car door to open out of nowhere - always expect that little old lady to pull right out into your path - so stay alert.

16. Be prepared for a thousand questions - Every where I stop I get questions and great comments. I had an hour long conversation with an older Scottish gentleman and his wife about the Whizzer - he said he had one back in Scotland as a child - but the motor quit working so they took it off and he rode it like a bicycle everywhere. The conversation turned to old motorcycles (Vincent, Douglas, HD, Velocette and the like) and we exchanged numbers and now my wife and I have already gone out to dinner with them - Whizzers are instant friend makers!




As for questions -

1. I still have a new 26mm carb that I am thinking of putting on her - I am just new to mechanical engine work and a little intimidated. Do you think the performance increase (if done correctly) is worth the effort?


2. I want better performance from a stand still when the engine is hot - Do you think a copper head gasket will help with the heat? Should Quenton's mushroom lifters help in this area at all? Is this an easy self install? (I really wish I had an exploded view of the NE5 engine - or a set of photos. Heck, I'd even buy a bad NE5 engine setup just so I could have something to take apart and learn!


All in all I am very happy I did not go with another scooter and chose the Whizzer instead. It has been a very gratifying experience thus far. And a huge thanks to the folks here on the forum - your input has been invaluable.

Regards,

Matthew

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Matthew,
Do a compression check, cold and when hot. The copper head gasket will help reduce the heat. A set of stock mushroom lifters may decrease the performance because of the lifter weight. Modified mushroom lifters will smooth out the power through the entire range. While it is true a good set of mushroom lifters will add a little power [very little] in the lower RPM range, the main reason for using them is to reduce the stress on the valve train [camshaft, lifters, valves, springs, & the lifter bores].
The mushroom lifters & copper head gasket are current production items, and can be purchased through most Whizzer dealers. After I sell the remaining inventory of modified lifters, I will no longer offer them or discuss the modifications, however I will stock the heavier production units.
One important issue you didn't mention is trying to start the motor when the kill switch is in the wrong position.
Owning a Whizzer is unlike anything else, and always attracts attention everywhere.
If the 26 MM carburetor isn't an original Whizzer unit [only a few were offered on the very first NE motors], chances are the jetting will be way off for a stock motor. And using the correct Whizzer version will drop your gas mileage below 85 MPG, but will add lots of power. As far as I know I have all the remaing Whizzer 26 MM carburetors in stock, but not for sale at this time.

Hope this information is helpful,

Have fun,
Quenton

 

[MoonKS]

That is very helpful, Quenton! I know you were lightening the mushroom lifters - and I do know I definitely want to get a copper head gasket.

It is not an original Whizzer 26mm carb - even though the seller said it is - it is KEIHIN and it has the black plastic lever - says PD on it - but if it's going to more trouble than it's worth I will probably just resell it. If I could get an original 26mm Whizzer carb someday I will put it on - bringing down the gas mileage to 85 MPG isn't really a concern for me since my Xterra gets 18 MPG

If you ever decide to see one of those 26mm carbs - let me know!

Thanks so much for all of your input and advice - as always!

Oh, dumb question - how do I check compression? And what should my compression be?

Thanks,

Matthew

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Matthew,
You will need a compression guage with a 10 MM adapter. You might be able to get a local mechanic to check it for you. Be sure to open the throttle completely during the test. If the head is stock the pressure should be approx. 80 to 85 pounds. If the head is milled .070" the pressure should be approx. 110 to 115 pounds. Any smaller readings will point to loose head bolts, or a leaking head gasket. The original steel head gasket can not be re-used, however the copper gasket can be used many times, and can even be heated with a propane torch to soften it for more use if needed. The torque specs for the 8 MM head bolts is 175 to 180 INCH pounds, and the 10 MM bolts should be torqued to 210 INCH pounds.

If I ever decide to let go of my personal stock of 26 MM carburetors I will let you know, but I paid a lot more for them wholesale than you paid retail. The correct version is a KENTSE and has the letters PD on the right side above the float bowl. I have seen many of the "so called" Whizzer 26 MM carburetors, and there are several versions, some work OK, some don't work at all, but none work as good as the original version.
I also forgot to cover the installation of the mushroom lifters, it is very easy and usually takes less than 30 min. to complete. Because of the expanded base of the lifters [.500"] the lifters must be removed & replaced from inside the motor case. It isn't necessary to remove the top of the motor [a good thing], but other than adjusting the lifter clearance, all work can be performed after removing the side cover. Simply remove the camshaft [if it doesn't come out with the side cover] by pulling towards the open side cover, remove the compression cover, loosen the lifter bolts [8 & 10 MM wrenches] and let the lifters drop [use a rag located below the lifters to catch them]. Simply push the replacement lifters up through the lifter bores in the case, re-install the lifter bolts, install the camshaft [one dot advanced, counter clockwise], install the side cover. Adjust the lifters, factory settings are .009" [I adjust mine to .006" intake, and .008" exhaust, but not suggesting you do the same because of possible performance gains].

If you need better instructions, just ask!
Have fun,
Quenton

 

[peter nap]

I have a few more miles to complete the break in.
My observations are much like yours although I have to admit I must have gotten a good engine. After not opening the restrictor plate, which of course I wouldn't do, it will do 48 MPH. It has the high flow exhaust and I did re jet it to 88.

I also have the iridium plug now but can't say yet if it makes a difference. I'm still resisting the urge to really open it up for another 50 miles.

I did have a world of problems with other things. My dealer is new. He's a super nice fellow but still is learning. The bike was poorly put together when I got it. The fender was so close it rubbed all the wires bare and shorted the electrical system. The dealer said the battery was dead aND BATTERIES WEREN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. Another dealer found the wire problem when he fixed the fender.

The rear wheel folded in half after I adjusted the belt. I thought I had tightened it too much but the second dealer said the spokes just hadn't been tightened. The first dealer didn't locktite the brake assembly when he put it back together. It unscrewed itself when I took it off the truck and on my first ride back, I had no brakes (rear).

The second dealer fixed that too.

The chrome on my first exhaust was bad and it started rusting after my first ride. Whizzer sent dealer 1 a new one but he didn't replace the set screw. Dave sent me a new screw and gasket. (The gasket was missing too)

I had a flat on the front after a few miles. When I replaced the tube I found it had been slimed but the nail in the tire was still there. I'm sttill trying to figure that one out.

Either the factory or dealer 1 had tightened the bolt the idler has so it was locked. That's why I had so much squeal. Dealer 2 fixed that and told me about it. I didn't know there was an idler.

All in all, it sat in dealer 1 and dealer 2's shop over a month total. Check them out when you buy them!!

Oh...my wifes Whizzer had the same fender problem when we bought it. The air cleaner fell off and Just about every bolt I checked was loose. Hopefully it will go better. It only has 60 miles on it.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Peter,
Are we having fun yet? If I were to combine all the problems of all the Whizzers I have sold, and all the Whizzers I have "abused", they wouldn't add up to one third of your adventure. Of course I loc-tite all screws & bolt during assembly, adjust all the cables, brakes, charge the battery [which I warranty], adjust the head light, check all lights including the light in the guages, check fender & wheel alingment, test ride, all before I allow it to leave my shop. In fact I can only think of two time consuming events [over 3 hours], and both were wiring problems. The first was a nearby Dealer that couldn't get the motor to fire, because he had neglected to plug the rear wiring harness in and completing the circuit, and another that couldn't get the brake light & horn working [wasn't using a battery], which was a simple matter of connecting the red wire to the high side of the horn to supply 12V alternator power to the circuit. Most of my personal repairs were self inflicted, except for leaking front fork seals [1999 model with over 6000 miles], and dealing with the earlier center stand. I bought the 1999 used and the stand issues were most likely the fault of the previous owner.

Have fun,
Quenton