Keep Magneto Safe from elements

Motorcycles have their own issues, mostly are too expensive new nowdays. Plus you should take a rider's safety course Wintertime isn't really the best time of year to be riding powered two wheelers.

But these engines aren't prototypes. they been in production for over 18 years in China and they're based on a very well designed Russian bicycle engine/Japanese minibike engine. The manufacture is very poorly done.

HT engines just demand extremely anal preset-up routines. There's a dozen things I dislike about them. The wobbly primary gears, red Loctited pinion gear bolts, eccentric and wobbly sprockets, the fact they're delivered with not enough lubricant in the clutch axle/bearing, and release mechanisms. There's a lot not to like.

I really think these are best left to hobbyists and people with time to tinker with them. Rely on these at your own job's peril, if you absolutely need to have transportation, I would not recommend riding one.

But the basic stuff, the carb setup and ignition bits should be easy to understand if you have a mechanical bent, Your bike engine shows a lot of corrosion in the magneto case, rust and corrosion that should not be present at all if it had been carefully sealed. And I can't help but think that even with your fenders, you're getting road salt water into the magneto case as spray off the front fender not cutting the road spray off low enough. Is your engine showing any salt spray off the front wheel at all? The aluminum on the front of the engine, is it patchy white/powdery sort of like dry white flour? On my bikes I've always added a flexible rubber spray fender end as a lot of bike fenders still allow road spray onto the pedal chain.

Where you park your bike at work, is it safe from tampering? is it off the street where passing vehicles can splash road water on it? Is there a very remote chance someone trying to sabotage your ride? How about at home? Can you bring it into a sheltered area? Is it out in the weather?
Was lacking enough mechanical know how, came at it with previously owning a computer controlled direct fuel injected car (Different country, much cheaper insurance) knew the basic concept, air fuel mixer and the such, but running one of these 2 strokes really helped me understand more on how these all play together. It's true, as a hobby and not transportation this thing is a blast to work on, issues only make it more interesting.

Regarding road salt, it isn't the case. It's an easy answer, because one I clean and lube my bike often, would have noticed, more importantly they only started salting the roads 2 weeks ago when my freehub stopped locking (My fault, it was due a rebuild ages ago), which is why I left it for 2 weeks as I had exams around that time, and did not have any time to spend on that. Was running fine for 3 months funnily enough. Point being, was using my other bicycle at the time (Regular department store MTB) to get to work and back.

It's at the back of the building, the only danger being people smoking around there (gas tank) and the people there going on smoke breaks half from the restaurant I work at and other half from the restaurant beside us. Been keeping my bike there for months now, don't have any issue in terms of trusting the people around there.

I store it in the backyard under a tarp, full expsure to humdity, and temperature changes. Nothing I can do about, renting a room at the house.
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Regarding a riding course, there is one one April I am eyeing, only thing stoping is winter being 40 percent of the year and I actually want to use it all year. Cycled through snow and ice, not fun, but possible in lower speeds, better yet if I was to add studded tires which are legal during winter. Also the fact that everyone I talked to about this told me to ride like everyone is out there to get me, noticed while cycling people don't really expect me in winter, always point my head with the flashing light at every intersection to on coming vehicles that are logically thinking to yield, but not actually stop for a cyclist to go by around this time. I'll probably go with a used dual sport or enduro
 
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You have a leaking crank seal man. Motorcycles are really cheap to buy, insure and license. Enduro and dual sport bikes suck on the road and suck off the road lol. I would get one for my yacht but that's about it. Used cycles get really affordable in October here in Minnesota but snowmobiles get real cheap in March. My brother in law picked up an old Yamaha maxim for $300. I scooped up my goldwing for $500. If you can handle rebuilding carbs people are practically giving away older carbureted motorcycles. I know where a silver wing is right now for $250. If i didn't have 2 project jet skis and a parts jet ski in my motorcycle garage right now I'd pick it up for sure.
 
You have a leaking crank seal man. Motorcycles are really cheap to buy, insure and license. Enduro and dual sport bikes suck on the road and suck off the road lol. I would get one for my yacht but that's about it. Used cycles get really affordable in October here in Minnesota but snowmobiles get real cheap in March. My brother in law picked up an old Yamaha maxim for $300. I scooped up my goldwing for $500. If you can handle rebuilding carbs people are practically giving away older carbureted motorcycles. I know where a silver wing is right now for $250. If i didn't have 2 project jet skis and a parts jet ski in my motorcycle garage right now I'd pick it up for sure.
I'll keep an eye out for the next few months, and regarding that, my bikes been sitting for the last 3 days again.

Getting back home, irritated and forcefully trying to start up the engine over and over as I got home, took a toll on the clutch, and it wouldn't engage anymore. I am yet to look into it, but now I have a clutch issue along with an engine dying on and off.
In all honesty I am just frustrated at this point, I ask myself if I should take the engine off and ride the bike, it's actually a decent entry level mountain bike compared to my department store backup bike.
 
Might be easiest just to buy another engine at this point if you have the cash. I don't think you have to split the case to change the seal, just remove the magnet. Clutch pads are a little more involved. Definitely be cheaper to fix this engine but possibly faster to replace it. So the question is how much do you value your time?
 
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I guess Trump hijacked this thread

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