Kill switch sticky!!!

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Lunardog, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. Lunardog

    Lunardog Member

    Ok guys I think we need to do this and do it right once and for all. I joined here a month or two back and have spent most of my time reading and researching without being a nuisance but..... Im not the only one thats confused and tired of reading different sets of information. (sometimes from the same person I'm afraid) Those of us who are just learning, take info from here over the instructions we get with the kits without a question because theres so many years experience tied up between all the old timers (experienced builders) here. Can we have a vote from the old timers only or something similar on correct kill switch wiring????? Im up for any method of decision at this point. I currently don't use mine but I also dont have the engine fine tuned to the point it idles at a stand still at the moment. But hopefully I will and this may be info to have. Thanks in advance guys and all the help you give is much appreciated. Motor on. Lunar

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    The best way on the kill switch on a HT is run one wire to the two blacks joining the Magneto and CDI together, the other wire will go on the other wires. Color from kill switch makes no difference. Solder and heat shrink connections. Slide heat shrink over the wire first. Grounding to the frame can cause problems down the road. Also cut or insulate white wire from the magneto. Luckily, I have not in 5 builds, as far back as 3/2009, have had any problems with one.
  3. Lunardog

    Lunardog Member

  4. Dymaxion

    Dymaxion New Member

    You got it

    While there are a few different ways the kill switch can be wired up, Ron gave you the most common and least troublesome way. The link you posted shows the same wiring as Ron also. All you need to do is short the two CDI wires together to kill the engine.

    In my experience, the key thing is to be sure to solder your connections and insulate them as well so they cannot ground out or touch. I've see many people struggle with engines that would not run because of a splice that came apart or grounded out.
  5. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    do it the way Al describes. it's the best way.
    also, solder and heat shrink as al suggests, because it will save you from having problems down the road.
  6. Max-M

    Max-M Member

    Sticky kill switch

    When I saw the heading "Kill switch sticky!!!," I thought that Lunardog was referring to the common type of springloaded kill switch sticking in the "kill" position (and not springing back out after it was pushed in). Now I realize that Lunardog was probably suggesting that this should be made a "sticky thread" on the forum!

    Nonetheless, I'd like to mention that I had that sticking problem on my "kit" throttle's kill switch (no doubt the result of non-existent Chinese quality control), and that the problem was solved when I changed over to the pictured jackhammer grips/new throttle and needed a separate kill switch. I bought this rocker-type switch from Sick Bike Parts.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 9, 2012
  7. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I have to laugh...kind of... I have not had a OEM kill switch go bad, All my builds started in 3/2009, and my last in 4/2011. Just lucky...I guess.
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