Kill Switch Wiring

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by pucksterpete, Oct 12, 2010.

  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Two wires are needed if the place you're mounting the killswitch is a not very well grounded location, like maybe a painted handlebar.:detective:

    FWIW, I just ordered a 2-wire killswitch from SBP. The reason I need this is because I insulated the engine from the bike frame. Since the frame is now not a very good conductor, one wire of the killswitch will bolt onto the engine block, the other wire splices to the OEM engine killswitch(doesn't matter which color wire goes where for my application).:idea:

  2. RedBaronX

    RedBaronX Member

    another method that works (though I don't know if it has any negatives of its own) is to choke the motor off-- I've done it a couple times, and it works just fine, though I usually just use the kill switch...

    and then there are all the times I accidentally stall it taking off at a green light. Probably do that once a ride during my 15 miles commute...
  3. typtohe

    typtohe Member

    does anyone know what gauge the wires are? I want to hide my wiring as much as possible, found a spot or two, but I would need to extend the wiring.
  4. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    whatever is handy thatis thick enough to work with, ie, not headphone wire.

    thicker maybe bettererer... just lower resistance and all that but its not exactly a high current or critical application...
  5. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    I replace the stock magneto to CDI wires with this very flexible shielded 16 gauge black speaker wire.


    And use these little boxes to cover the connection on every 2-stroke I build, I just don't always put a keylock in it like this one.


    I originally put the keylock in series with the blue wire but there is no need to run the ignition current through the switch.

    Now I just treat the keylock the same as a kill button, it just shorts out black and blue with a key operated switch.

    If this had a keylock it would be in the corner of the box on this flush side just to the left of the spark plug wire in the pic.


    The other side as mentioned is a bit wider for the cable to the magneto and cable to the kill button which you actually don't need to hook up if don't want to, the keylock will kill your engine.


    You then route the wire however you want to the magneto and solder them to the magneto coil.


    Note I cut the white aux wire off every coil and in fact the newest Skyhawk magnetos don't even have a white wire.

    This is same setup with a keylock on the CDI.


    It won't keep a thief from stealing your bike, but it will keep him from starting it without a new CDI if you epoxy that cover onto the CDI ;-}

    Top it off with a BPR7HIX Iridium spark plug and you will feel the difference in your engine performance. It's not a huge boost like an expansion chamber exhaust, but enough to feel and why I make it standard equipment on every build.
  6. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    In short if you take a little extra time you can make most every cable and wire blend in no matter how many you have.


    This is an extreme example of cable matching and hiding.


    8 cables and wires from the handlebars leaving room for a removable basket, the ignition wiring, and odd rear mounted gas tank line.

    It's amazing what a few bucks and some time can do to make your build 'picture perfect' which is what I strive for as a picture really is worth a 1,000 words, I just take fancy pictures ;-}
  7. typtohe

    typtohe Member

    DAMN NICE BUILD!!!!!! I was tinkering today and I found a small enough hole in the backbone that I can run my wiring through. Will have to probably push them through one by one but it's doable. :D thanks and good lookin out
  8. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Thanks for the Kudos ;-}
    Through the tube wiring is nice if it were going to be the only cable showing, but the clutch cable and usually a rear shifter cable go on there anyway so adding a nice black cable with them is nothing.
  9. Hive

    Hive Member

    Fisherman +1.

    IYDM, kill switch should be wired so when bike is at hitch post, no one can start engine and walk away. Add extra step, but does reduce problems and is so easy.
  10. sully1617

    sully1617 Guest

    cut that white wire off and don't use it at all. it is a weak at best wire for a headlight or tail light. if you try to use it, it will rob you of spark performance and your bike will run shitty.
  11. sully1617

    sully1617 Guest

    i forgot to mention that hooking up the white wire is known to burn out your magneto.
    the ones they sell now don't even come with a white wire because so many backyard mechanics are frying the magneto. Yes some people have gotten away with using it but it's not worth it. CUT THAT THING OFF and wire your kill wires blue to blue and black to black. if i had a good clean pic of mine i would post it for you but i wrapped tape all around mine to keep the wiring from getting hung up and disconnected. you should have a jumper that splits the blue into two, connect to either one and connect the other to the mag. do the same with the black and that's it. if for some reason it doesn't start you wired it wrong to try it again you will get it. just DON"T use the white wire for anything, cut that thing off!
  12. Sasha1234

    Sasha1234 Member

    So, what if your kit comes with the wiring of the kill switch with one blue wire and one red wire? I might have put the red wire to the black and the black wire to the red.....Will that fry my kill switch?....Or no?....
  13. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    the killswitch is just a switch. you won't fry it, there's no active components in it