Kings upper assembly?

:cool:The proper solution is to first measure actual piston-to-head clearance. If clearance is excessive compared to engine specs, then the cylinder head is removed and machined to restore proper clearances. If clearance is limited, then the piston's crown is machined to attain proper clearance.

Any other way compromises engine performance.

If I were digging into my engine's innards and visiting the machine shop, I would also balance the entire reciprocating assembly.

I have to chuckle whenever anyone mentions stacking cereal box gaskets.

Myron
 
yeah? only on a happy-time, eh? there wasn't any chuckling when it did 35mph! 'cruzin ran it hard and it wasn't a gasket problem that led to it's final demise, i tellyawut.

there may be a "right" and a "wrong" way to do something, and i'm well aware of the difference...but no way i spend more to machine an engine part than the engine's worth. if cereal box does it, then cereal box it is :)

btw-"stacking" is because of the thickness of the original gasket, if you can find something of the proper thickness, then certainly you should use only one.
 
I wonder if the cylinders have the same I.D. (internal diameters). If one fits but the rings aren't as snug as they are supposed to be, when the motor warms up, they may not seal completely. Also there would be a difference in compression ratio's.
P.S. I'm with Augie on the cerial boxes. They have held longer than OEM for me several times and not just on Happy times.
Doc
 
:cool:Maybe stacking gaskets isn't so bad after all.HOWEVER, you should realize that doing so without measuring piston-to-head clearance might attribute to a loss in compression and power.

When you're working with 2-3hp engines, a mismatch WILL be noticeable.

I might've been subconsciously crossreferencing to cast iron CHEVROLET engine blocks I've worked with. Stacking gaskets was not an option on those engines. Machining the piston crowns or decking the block's mating surface was the only way to correcting or blueprinting mismatched pistons/heads/engine blocks.

My apologies if I ruffled anyone's feathers.

Myron
 
my feathers are fine :)

i too make the common mistake of applying my "real" experience to the happy-time...with the exception of basic theory, it's apples and oranges...

i keep hoping to find a happy-time in my next box of cereal, sure beats a secret-decoder-ring anytime! :LOL:
 
Feathers, what feathers? All I have is black fur with a white stripe. Everyone has a right to their own opinions, good, bad or indifferent, it's all good.
Doc
 
hmmm i didnt think the bolt pattern was the same. for head bolts. I have a pk 80cc yeah right 65cc and I have a couple others i picked up used cheap and i noticed the headbolts where spaced differently. must not be daxs I guess?
 
When I bought my first engine from Kings, I ordered a spare spark plug from Dax but the threaded end was about .100 longer than the one from Kings. Out of fear of the piston hitting the longer plug I put 2 compression rings on the plug. That would mean my Kings head was thinner than the Dax. Right?
Doc
 
king's does the "80"(sheesh! you'd think he'd take a HINT!)...6mm studs, right? dax's original 50 & 70 both use 8mm, his "65" uses 6mm.

there's a really cool "spark plug" topic that discusses plug lengths and such, anybody have it?

2 different patterns, yes, and the quick reference is stud size....don and i were just comparing 2 the other day.

it seems that anything that has 8mm headstuds (usually just genuine 70's) is (probably) interchangeable...???

maybe the same with the "80"/65's which use 6mm studs?
__________________
"....Get a bicycle. You will not regret it. If you live." — Mark Twain
 
Back
Top