Lets talk chain cleaning and lube

To clean a chain? The best and cheapest thing to use is kerosene. You can use it, capture it, filter it, and re-use it multiple times. Kerosene is a great solvent making it awesome at dissolving other petroleum products. Off the bike, soak the chain in a tub. On the bike, go buy a spray bottle at the dollar store. Once the chain is wet with it, use a brush to help work it into the grime and loosen all the crud up. Rinses and wipes right off. I like to use chain brushes, but old tooth brush or paint brush works too if you are trying to be as cheap as possible, just takes a bit longer. My favorite brush I have used so far. https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-DMB00...1715576324&sprefix=chain+brush,aps,183&sr=8-7

Once that's done, let it "dry" for a little while. Putting lube on something wet with solvent is just an exercise in futility.

As for what type of lube to use. Hands down the "best" chain lube is gear oil, the heavier the better. The downside to gear oil is mainly that it slings like any other liquid oil and tends to have dirt stick to it. The upside is that it easily gets into the rollers and between the link plates, preventing wear.

Wax is great for a longer lasting solution that is a bit better at avoiding collecting dirt and other crud, but it also doesn't work its way into the rollers to properly lubricate the chain so it doesn't wear. The best way to get around that is to actually bathe the entire chain in melted wax. Paraffin wax melted and mixed with graphite is the absolute best way to do it. Cleaning wax off tends to also be a little more labor intensive.

Grease is one of the best lubes, but it collects dirt worse than oil does. You can actually grease bath a chain just like you do with wax, but you need something that gets hotter than what can melt wax since most grease has a melting point north of 350 degrees. A food fryer is actually a good way to do it, or a pan you don't care about. Just be very careful melting grease over an open flame, as it really likes to catch fire when in liquid form.
 
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I clean them with an old paint brush and solvent. Then paint on a coat of chain saw chain oil with a clean paint brush and wipe the excess off with a rag. Cheap and effective and doesn't fling off too much.

On this new 4 stroke with the rear disk I'm going to have to come up with a wax type that Nick mentioned because the disc is so close to the chain I'm worried that oil will get on the disc.
Even with my soaking system of chain lubing, that isn't really much of a problem.

Wipe the chain down as much as feasably possible once it is cleaned and lubed, then take it for a ride...Then take some rubbing alcohol on a cloth and simply wipe down the disk to eliminate any excess oil splatter...I also do the same with the pads and haven't had any braking problems.
 
This…
Local shops…$10
Doesn't the chain need to be VERY clean before using this stuff? Again I REALLY (I cannot stress this enough) do NOT want to have to remove both chains. Cleaning and re lubing is easier. May not be the cleanest but easy.


Now guys, I read in other forums that using motor oil is not that great an idea. Something about temp makes it thick or thin and that it may not get into the tiny pins etc. BUT I keep seeing this, so maybe that's wrong? IDK. SO many ideas here, looks like there is no best one huh?
 
Doesn't the chain need to be VERY clean before using this stuff? Again I REALLY (I cannot stress this enough) do NOT want to have to remove both chains. Cleaning and re lubing is easier. May not be the cleanest but easy.


Now guys, I read in other forums that using motor oil is not that great an idea. Something about temp makes it thick or thin and that it may not get into the tiny pins etc. BUT I keep seeing this, so maybe that's wrong? IDK. SO many ideas here, looks like there is no best one huh?
Assuming you have a master link in the chains, just bite the bullet and remove them and soak to clean properly. Maintenance cleaning on the bike is ok, but you really need to get it very clean, then use a proper chain lube. I have used the chain wax on all my regular and power bikes but after removing and cleaning the chain.
 
I use a rag and brush to clean.

Put the bike on a stand, start it, get the chain moving at a high idle and carefully spray the wax on the inside the chain so centrifugal force helps some to push it thru while it’s wet.

This method can be very hazardous to the fingers. You have to be sure your hands and anything else like sleeve or rag cant get caught up in the chain and sucked your hand in.

Then kill it and let it dry.

Slung grease or oil from a chain is a peeve of mine. The spray wax is good for not slinging it once it sets up.

It may not be the best method but at the cost of slinging oil all over I’d rather forsake some chain longevity.
 
Now guys, I read in other forums that using motor oil is not that great an idea. Something about temp makes it thick or thin and that it may not get into the tiny pins etc. BUT I keep seeing this, so maybe that's wrong? IDK. SO many ideas here, looks like there is no best one
Nobody said motor oil that I recall. I said gear oil, but those are both much thicker than many chain lubes sold on the market.

The critical part of chain lube is that it gets in between the plates and inside the rollers. The only thing it does on the outside is prevent corrosion, and it doesn't need to be thick to do that either.
 
Bicycle enthusiast and mechanic for some 40 odd years with a lot of small motorbikes thrown into the mix. My take, I had a can of Bardahl's foamy chain lube last me through 7 motorcycles and 10 bikes until I lost the still 1/3rd filled can in a move. Granted most of the motorcycle had 420 sized chains. Bardahl's foamy chain lube penetrates and then evaporates leaving behind a very heavy oil in a very thin layer, just wipe the excess off.
 
I haven't seen Oring or Xring chains in a 415 size but I'd buy one if they were available. Links probably too wide for clearance on my bike though.
 
I haven't seen Oring or Xring chains in a 415 size but I'd buy one if they were available. Links probably too wide for clearance on my bike though.
They exist, but considering they cost as much as some people's bicycles...
 
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