Spare_Parts
Well-Known Member
Im going to contact you about these later today.
Lightened Gudgeon Pin
- Thread starter Stoneman
- Start date
Getting good feedback with these pins
I’m having issues with the drill bits lasting that is making it very hard to gauge how much they are worth, so I’m sorry to anyone waiting
For example I just had one drill bit shapened for $20AU and got one pinned drilled
When the bit was new I got 7!
So I’m not sure if it’s the sharpening guy or the angles still need to be worked on for optimal cutting
I’m having issues with the drill bits lasting that is making it very hard to gauge how much they are worth, so I’m sorry to anyone waiting
For example I just had one drill bit shapened for $20AU and got one pinned drilled
When the bit was new I got 7!
So I’m not sure if it’s the sharpening guy or the angles still need to be worked on for optimal cutting
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springfieldscooter
Member
My experience, is that NOTHING cuts like a new blade or bit.
Chain saw blades are great examples....
They cut excellent when brand new, and are short lived when sharpened.
Dosent matter if I sharpen, or the pro sharpens, there never as sharp as new.
Chain saw blades are great examples....
They cut excellent when brand new, and are short lived when sharpened.
Dosent matter if I sharpen, or the pro sharpens, there never as sharp as new.
Have you considered using a small insert type boring bar to open up the hole?
You would probably need a carbide shank bar because of the depth of the hole, but carbide inserts cost much less than carbide drills.
I'm not sure what diameter hole you're starting with, but something similar to this may work.
http://everede.net/everede_2014_catalog_series_e_thru_h_boring_bars.html
You would probably need a carbide shank bar because of the depth of the hole, but carbide inserts cost much less than carbide drills.
I'm not sure what diameter hole you're starting with, but something similar to this may work.
http://everede.net/everede_2014_catalog_series_e_thru_h_boring_bars.html
springfieldscooter
Member
Where are you finding a bar and bit small enough to go inside the piston pin?
As I mentioned, I don’t know the dimensions of the stock pin. I’d need to know the existing hole diameter and OAL of the pin.
Insert style boring bars can work in a hole as small as .180”, and solid carbide bars can go much, much smaller. The limiting factors here would be the length to diameter ratio of the hole, and the available RPM of the lathe. Carbide doesn’t like running too slow.
Insert style boring bars can work in a hole as small as .180”, and solid carbide bars can go much, much smaller. The limiting factors here would be the length to diameter ratio of the hole, and the available RPM of the lathe. Carbide doesn’t like running too slow.
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
I don't see any sign's of cutting fluid being used? even wd-40 would prolong the life of the bits greatly,When drilling the cranks if cutting fluid wasnt used even with the tungston carbide bit you might get half a hole done and the bit would be garbage,with the fluid I bought two bits this year and have done 12 holes allready and there still fine cutting clean.
Different metal streets, I’ve learnt a lot since buying the machine and cooling is one of the first along with cutting angles and relief angles for good chip removal.
I have drilled the cranks with no fluid and the bits are fine
Here’s the mister
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Nice job on the MQL mister, much less mess than flood coolant.
Couple thoughts on this. As you're finding out, carbide drills don't like opening up existing holes, they much prefer drilling from solid. All carbide drills are not created equal and there are tools designed for high hardness steels. OSG Tap & Die has tools that will drill into the 60's HRC, and I've seen demos of their tools drilling and tapping files. Many other companies have similar tools, but I'm not familiar with distribution in Australia. Word of warning, as the technology increases, so does the price.
Maybe consider trying carbide reamers. They are designed to open existing holes and can take fairly large depth of cuts. Might take a couple of different diameters to arrive at your final dimension. Or, if your finished dimension matches that of an end mill, feeding a four flute end mill with a large corner radius would cut that pin all day.
Not trying to complicate your life here, just throwing out some ideas that might work. Good luck!
Couple thoughts on this. As you're finding out, carbide drills don't like opening up existing holes, they much prefer drilling from solid. All carbide drills are not created equal and there are tools designed for high hardness steels. OSG Tap & Die has tools that will drill into the 60's HRC, and I've seen demos of their tools drilling and tapping files. Many other companies have similar tools, but I'm not familiar with distribution in Australia. Word of warning, as the technology increases, so does the price.
Maybe consider trying carbide reamers. They are designed to open existing holes and can take fairly large depth of cuts. Might take a couple of different diameters to arrive at your final dimension. Or, if your finished dimension matches that of an end mill, feeding a four flute end mill with a large corner radius would cut that pin all day.
Not trying to complicate your life here, just throwing out some ideas that might work. Good luck!
