Longevity of Japan 2 strokes over Chinese 2 strokes

[FNTPuck]

Yeah, a remote hard reboot on a server is definitely great tool in some cases where the server won't respond otherwise, and the function needs to be restored ASAP. I used to do a lot of remote control-systems support for plant equipment. Sometimes, the plant couldn't wait for me to drive an hour or two to them to get something up again before things got dicey or expensive. I usually could guide a human to force the reboot, but automating it where it makes sense and is safe to do is the ticket.

I did control systems - PLCs/DCS/HMI/SCADA/DAQ engineering work before my body broke down a few years ago. LOL, probably from being on call all the damn time! The meds I have to take now and the pain I have cause some frustration with doing technical work that used to be easy for me. But I can still code anything I really need, and the support libraries for arduino and pi are ubiquitous and decent. The possibilities are endless indeed.

Your peltier cooler sounds cool. (but clearly you don't want to let it get too cool, lol. liquid water is no bueno there.) Replacing your controller with an arduino and your own code will be great. BTW, I've used 10K NTC thermistors for easy temp measurements on arduino. I built a crock pot controller for making yogurt and sous vide cooking. And also to pasteurize eggs without cooking them to make safe to eat cookie dough and cake batter for my kids, LOL.
I've worked with thermocouple inputs a lot industrially, but for my CHT, I'm going to try a MAX 6675 module from eBay. Interface is SPI, so I'll need a micro. Total cost of the CHT monitor will be around $10. Maybe a little more depending on how I display it.

I haven't done much raspi or arduino work since my son graduated HS. I used to mentor his robotics team. So, I'm a little rusty, but it'll come back as I need it.

So in my infirm and uncertain retirement situation, I hope to have some fun and share some ideas. I'm not very sharp anymore, but I ain't dead yet either.

Yea, I use lab grade 10k ATH thermistors that have a very fast response time which is important when you want to run at a dynamic 1* above dew point. For 24/7 use that means the cold plate is usually around 18*c but I can get it down to 3-4* under load if I want. I used to run a chiller in line with it and it had no problem holding 0c with the peltier plate at only ~40% duty cycle, so I know it was capable of well under 0c but controller wouldn't allow it.

These are the thermistors I use vs the big cheap slow ones which made it difficult to hold a set temp (it would ramp up and down constantly). They are glass bead and epoxy sealed with a sub1s thermal response time. Most cheap thermistors like for the adafruit and RPI are up to 10 seconds to fully adjust to temp changes. Its rated to 270c which is over 500*f so would be great for a CHT probe.

 

[Will'smotobikes19]

Ok I have no idea what you guys are talking about btw but Floridaboy that seems to be a cheaper but still good quality choice engine wise. Some of the engines I was looking at are $300 or more so it would be more affordable.

 

[darwin]

Will are you dead set on a smoker? Staton still has the tanakas for sale. If a 4 stroke why not a Huasheng 38cc or a 49er. Both great lil motors and cheap to buy, plus parts are readily available. Just don't fall for gas bikes ebay ad on the 38cc for $325 or so. You can buy them for $125 if you look. Then there's the good old honda gx 35cc for $250 or so new.

 

[Will'smotobikes19]

They say it’s half the cost to run a 4 stroke because the oil stays in the motor without burning, with a 2 stroke you always add more oil when you fill up. With this small of a 4 stroke it only should take a few ounces and it can last from what I’ve heard 300-400 miles. before changing, might be worth it. I would like to try both the 2 stroke and 4 stroke engines. Probably will go with the gx35. I will try the electric start Mitsubishi clone first that I already have. That opens opportunities for a horn, taillight, turn signals, the works which is what I’m going for. Just need a new carb and battery. If I don’t like it I can just unbolt it and put on a different motor. Was thinking I could use a 4 inch light bar as a headlight maybe even get some fairings fenders are required though and not sure what I’ll do about that.

 

[junglepig]

Yea, I use lab grade 10k ATH thermistors that have a very fast response time which is important when you want to run at a dynamic 1* above dew point. For 24/7 use that means the cold plate is usually around 18*c but I can get it down to 3-4* under load if I want. I used to run a chiller in line with it and it had no problem holding 0c with the peltier plate at only ~40% duty cycle, so I know it was capable of well under 0c but controller wouldn't allow it.

These are the thermistors I use vs the big cheap slow ones which made it difficult to hold a set temp (it would ramp up and down constantly). They are glass bead and epoxy sealed with a sub1s thermal response time. Most cheap thermistors like for the adafruit and RPI are up to 10 seconds to fully adjust to temp changes. Its rated to 270c which is over 500*f so would be great for a CHT probe.

Yeah, with thermal sensors, the response of the sensor is often a first-order dynamic. If you know the time constant of the probe, you can model the response into a nice prediction of the actual temperature you are trying to measure. Take the derivative, or slope, of the temperature measurement and multiply it by the time constant, then add it to your current measurement and you will get a surprisingly accurate approximation of the instantaneous temperature you want to measure. This is how good digital "instant read" thermometers work, e.g.
Once you get the slow dynamics of you measurement device out of the control loop, it is much easier to achieve stable control.
That's why you will be able to do so much better writing your own control on the arduino.
You should be able to essentially take your 10 second response time element, and after taking two readings 0.5 seconds apart predict the temperature it would read if you waited for it to approach it's final temp. A little math turns the 10s element into a 0.5s element!
You can use the same trick with your fast element too, of course, and make it that much better.

Thanks for the info on the thermistors you're using. I generally like thermistors for temps closer to 25 degC that don't change too much because it's easier to pick a divider resistor and focus on a narrower range of temperature and keep good accuracy over the range of interest, but I might try one for head temp, and thread the type K into the exhaust header for exhaust gas temps, just for fun.