About a week ago I built my 66/80cc Dragon Fire kit on a cruiser bike. I have been tinkering with the tune off and on since(its very hot right now). It is idling great at no choke but is seems low power with throttling. I assuming its just part of the break in period but wanting to see if perhaps the needle needs to be adjusted for rich/lean. Carb needle is a 4 notch and the clip is on the 2nd notch from the top |-+-->(the way it was in the box. Checked plug and it is an ash grey color. Also the plug is a 3 tip not a standard 1 tip, though I do have a standard 1 tip as well that is still new. A few other details i can think of is that aside from idling good without choke it starts fine without the choke(might because we are under a heat advisory(90F+). Oil type is a full synthetic for air cooled and mixed to 16:1. If you need more details or pics let me know and I will get to it asap. Thanks.
The first thing you should do is decrease your oil to 30:1 if your running full synthetic, after a full tank switch to 40:1 full synthetic. 16:1 may be fine in China where quality oil isn't readily available but here in the states it's just overkill and creates excessive carbon deposits leading to premature wear and tear.
With a stock NT carb, the choke is basically unnecessary to get the bike started (at least in my experience) so I wouldn't worry about that too much.
I'd swap that 3 prong plug for an NGK b5hs/b6hs,b7hs (if your in a hot climate like AZ go for a b7hs otherwise a b6hs is fine for summer use, b5hs for cool weather) and if your feeling up to it, do some plug chops to determine if your running rich/lean (Pick up a 4 pack, that'll give you 4 chops)
https://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Plug_chop
Basically, get the bike good and warmed up, go somewhere with a 1/4 mile stretch that you can max the bike out without issues.
Swap in a
BRAND NEW PLUG, start it and proceed to travel that 1/4 mile at WOT.
Once you hit the end of the 1/4 mile, with the throttle still wide open, hit the kill switch, grab the clutch and come to a stop.
You must not let the engine idle down or it will affect your readings.
Pull the plug out, swap in your old one and ride back to the start/home.
Looking at the base of the insulator where the metal touches, the 1-2mm band of color will tell you your tuning.
Sometimes this requires you to cut the threads off, hence being called a "plug chop".
This will help you determine if your running rich or lean on the top end. This same technique works for anywhere in power band, you just simply need to hold the motor at a specific RPM under load for 1/4-1/2 mile to get a reading on a fresh plug.
Honestly, on a stock NT carb, this is completely unnecessary.
On your carb needle, you are on the 2nd from the leanest setting (lean = top, rich = bottom) which according to the ash gray on the plug, might be a hair lean.
Try dropping the clip one notch and take it for a spin. If you get points where it's sputtering you may have gone overly rich (that sputtering is called 4 stroking, it means it's firing every other time instead of every time due to an excess of fuel) and need to put the clip back.
Lean conditions are a touch harder to tell, it'll run really strong but it'll have a weird hollow sound and the motor will get quite warm/hot.
At the very least, you should see a little increase in power once you reduce the amount of oil in your mix and if you want another small bump in power, grab a copper head gasket.