loud noise over 35 mph...

[KCvale]

theoretically id like to put disk brakes on the rear and since the v brakes work so well in the front, leave them as is. usually i see the opposite though...why?

Is it difficult or expensive to put disk brakes on the rear as opposed to the front? my front brakes already make me stop abruptly enough to seemingly send me flying over the handlebars. i cant see needing more stopping power than that.

Well ya it's hard and expensive to put a disc brake on a direct drive MB.
First your frame doesn't have mounts for a disc caliper, you have to change your back hub for something that will take a disc rotor, and then you have to find some way to get your drive sprocket on around it, unless you start with a bike with a rear disc hub and Jacksfat it like this NuVinci based Caddy.

id also like to change gas tanks, as the stock one just looks so silly on my bike. i saw some cylindrical looking stainless ones that mount in the rear that looked cool. any ideas? ?

Sure there are other gas tank options.
I went through Coyote Tanks for this custom aluminum tank, less than $150 delivered.

Just a thought.

 

[Slogger]

KC- that is one fine looking machine- I looked into those tanks but the cost put me off a little bit, but yours looks great!
I don't really like the m/c gas tanks the engines come with, since my bike is trying not to look like a motorcycle, I have ordered a steel recipe card file (it's OD green with army eagles and stars on it, a genuine collectable, man ) big enough to hold a plastic minibike tank inside. When the rear rack I ordered comes in, the box will be back there looking like a little trunk, sorta.
I pressurized the big top tube of the frame to try to use it as a tank, but the air whistled out into the chain stays. Boohoo.
I'll only have 38.4 oz of gas, but it will be enough for my short rides.

 

[piecepatrol99]

Spencercan

I would best be able to answer how dangerous it is if I were to ride your bike or at least hear you go by.
Going with how you describe it, I have to say its a time bomb. Bad enough if the bearings fail at cruising speed...if the cups go you're really going to have a suddenly wobbly wheel.
As I have driven a fork lift, I can tell you as fact rear wheel steering is incredibly responsive! You don't want that on a bicycle.

I also recommend upgrading the grease while you have the axcel out. I'm using wheel bearing grease for a car (and a healthy amount at that) for the added life and temp tolerance.
Brain storming all the possible things that could be wrong... it could just be dry bearings.
If you have cassette gears, those bearings could be dry or over tightened too.
If you're using a jack shaft (as I am), the freewheel on the right crank arm has bearings that require lubing and the bearings in the bottom bracket.
You say the noise/vibration is coming from the rear. I wouldn't rule out the BB.
Bikes with motors are strange creatures...I've learned to check and recheck everything. I got happy when my boost bottles came and was in a hurry to try them out. Forgot to lock down the arm on my roller brake...destroyed the adjuster nut, ripped the brake cable (the cable lock bolt is now MIA) and shredded 6" off the jacket.
Take your time and make sure everything is righty tighty ;-)

As for the after market or upgraded parts: BikeBerry, SickBikeParts, GasBike.net are a few of the companies I've ordered from that haven't given me major reason to be displeased.
There are a few other I can't think of off hand right now.
I think PistonBikes might have the tank your looking for...
I've got a schwinn stingray that is getting the 2 stroke I'm using now. Its getting a 1.5 Gal Hieneinken minnie keg as a gas tank ;-)

 

[piecepatrol99]

Nice ride KC. Very nice.

When I grow up, I want to be just like you ;-)



I'm still working on fit and longevity. When that's done I'll go for finish and polish.

 

[spencercan]

happened again once today...sounded like i was riding on a tire that was aboot to be flat in aboot 3 seconds. i must say this does not bode well for me, as i finished off my first two gallons of break in fuel today, i was looking to improve performance not backtrack lol. i really hate road rash a lot though, so....you gotta do what you gotta do!

 

[piecepatrol99]

I've developed a new squeal on my ride. It motor is about 4 years old and now has about 450 miles on it (the last 350 from this summer). The bike is 2 years old and this summer is the first time I've really ridden it.

My new noise is coming from my jack shaft bearings. The bearing are good, but where they mount the paint has chipped/worn off and the bearing assembly is now spinning in the hole.
I mention this as it also came with a vibration. If you're using a JS like me, take a look at the area around the JS bearings. If the paint is scratched off under the snap ring, it needs to be locked down.

I plan to drill a hole at about the 11 o'clock postion and place a small bolt at the gap in the snap ring. As similiar concept as the lock screw on the clutch adjuster nut.
If I don't, the snap ring will act as a holesaw until the bearing fails from the extra heat or the bearing falls out from cutting the motor mount which will then have to be replaced.

A little off topic, but I hope this helps you "keep it between the ditchs".

 

[piecepatrol99]

Also, what RPM range are you riding?
Lugging any motor will make it shake like a New York Chiwawa in January...

 

[spencercan]

my roommate was suggesting maybe it was the spokes...has anyone on here had issues with your sprocket loosening some of your spokes and thereby causing a pronounced wobble at higher speeds?

 

[HeadSmess]

my roommate was suggesting maybe it was the spokes...has anyone on here had issues with your sprocket loosening some of your spokes and thereby causing a pronounced wobble at higher speeds?

not if the spokes were tight in the first place.

another source of strange noise is the headset bearings, they get loose, they get clunky... want them tight enough so theres no shudder when you break, but no "notching" when just plain steering. fiddlu darn things, headset bearings. thank um... ill say buddha today... that theyre ball and cone rather than taper needles... unless you have an "aheadset" type...

 

[piecepatrol99]

my roommate was suggesting maybe it was the spokes...has anyone on here had issues with your sprocket loosening some of your spokes and thereby causing a pronounced wobble at higher speeds?

Sounds to me like you're using the direct drive on the left side of the wheel.
I never had that option (or loose spoke issues) due to the jackshaft kit I had to install from day one. My 7 speed internal rear hub has a roller brake where the sprocket is supposed to go. At the time I couldn't figure out how to get both to fit.
I wasn't riding with only the front brake.
Been there, done that...glad I still have my front teeth.

Sounds like HeadsMess is on the ball on this one.