Engine Trouble Low power after remounting engine to new bicycle

What should I check for next? There is no oil around the case, there is gross grease in the clutch case but idk if that's normal for grease to change color. How do I get the bevel gear on all the way?

EDIT
Bevel gear is on all the way, still no performance change. Idles fine however. ALSO, when I'm rotating the bevel gear, clutch gear and 10 tooth sprocket slowly, you can here a wet sounding air noise coming out the carb. Is that normal?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, just bought my new bike and I can't even ride it I was having blast riding it to work and school and now it will barely get out of my apartment complex
 
it seems the best thing to do now is to run the bike and see if you can find the problem from how it runs - too rich, air leaks, loss of compression, etc.
 
What should I check for next? There is no oil around the case, there is gross grease in the clutch case but idk if that's normal for grease to change color. How do I get the bevel gear on all the way?

EDIT
Bevel gear is on all the way, still no performance change. Idles fine however. ALSO, when I'm rotating the bevel gear, clutch gear and 10 tooth sprocket slowly, you can here a wet sounding air noise coming out the carb. Is that normal?

Yes, the grease on the bevel gear / clutch gear turns black with use.
Wipe it off every second tank of fuel and re-apply a daub the size of a match-head. EP2, Red'n Sticky, Moly, or anything will do.

Yes, a wet sounding air noise coming out the carb as you rotate the gears is normal.

Crassius has pretty well covered it.
Compression test should be more than 90 psi.
Check your muffler for obstruction, loosening it off with a gap will do to test it.
Retorque all the case and head bolts (nuts) with a torque wrench. Do the intake too.
Like he says, run it and see what it is doing. Put in a new plug and see if it is rich, lean or what...
 
Yes, the grease on the bevel gear / clutch gear turns black with use.
Wipe it off every second tank of fuel and re-apply a daub the size of a match-head. EP2, Red'n Sticky, Moly, or anything will do.

Yes, a wet sounding air noise coming out the carb as you rotate the gears is normal.

Crassius has pretty well covered it.
Compression test should be more than 90 psi.
Check your muffler for obstruction, loosening it off with a gap will do to test it.
Retorque all the case and head bolts (nuts) with a torque wrench. Do the intake too.
Like he says, run it and see what it is doing. Put in a new plug and see if it is rich, lean or what...
How can I do a compression test?
 
if you don't have a tester, just make sure it's not leaking compression out the head gasket. you'll be able to hear a little whistle at top dead center if it is.

I don't suspect compression to be the problem. it's probably something stupid like throttle cable adjustment or a clogged jet. the power loss and going from one frame to another is likely unrelated, or at best only tangentially so.
 
if you don't have a tester, just make sure it's not leaking compression out the head gasket. you'll be able to hear a little whistle at top dead center if it is.

I don't suspect compression to be the problem. it's probably something stupid like throttle cable adjustment or a clogged jet. the power loss and going from one frame to another is likely unrelated, or at best only tangentially so.
I ordered a throttle assembly cuz mine was old and dated anyways. I am going to buy a new spark and plug chop. Ill adjust jets accordingly maybe its just clogged. I just don't understand all this. Ive run into to so many problems with MB and I've learned a lot but I've drawn a blank on this issue.
 
When you put the carb back together did you put the pac man clip back on top of the needle? have you pulled the rotor magnet to see if the seal behind it is in tact? If you do pull the magnet mark it with a sharpie before you pull it so you don't put it back on backwards.
 
When you put the carb back together did you put the pac man clip back on top of the needle? have you pulled the rotor magnet to see if the seal behind it is in tact?
Before the shift, I had the needle on the second to last setting with a #65 jet and it was running better than ever. After I moved over to the new bike, upon first start it was tremendously smoky. My whole backyard was smoked out. Literally. I then moved the clip to the Very top or Second notch (sorry I am away from the bike to check). After moving clip and adding woodruff key to the bevel gear I gained a slight performance boost. I have yet (I am tonight after work) to take apart carb and mess with jet and float. I also will mess with the muffler and the magneto seal
 
Before the shift, I had the needle on the second to last setting with a #65 jet and it was running better than ever. After I moved over to the new bike, upon first start it was tremendously smoky. My whole backyard was smoked out. Literally. I then moved the clip to the Very top or Second notch (sorry I am away from the bike to check). After moving clip and adding woodruff key to the bevel gear I gained a slight performance boost. I have yet (I am tonight after work) to take apart carb and mess with jet and float. I also will mess with the muffler and the magneto seal
Do you live in a very high elevation? I live at 5400 ft. abv. sea level and use a #68 jet. A #65 seems very small. According to my main jet correction chart replacing a #70 with a # 65 jet would work for 6800 ft with a average temp of 86 deg. F or 8200 ft, at 68 deg. F .
 
Do you live in a very high elevation? I live at 5400 ft. abv. sea level and use a #68 jet. A #65 seems very small. According to my main jet correction chart replacing a #70 with a # 65 jet would work for 6800 ft with a average temp of 86 deg. F or 8200 ft, at 68 deg. F .
According to the internet, Alton IL is roughly 500 feet above sea level. I have jets 60,65,70,75,80. Running 20:1 Lucas Semi Synthetic. What jet size would you recommend?
 
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