Mad Scientist Lab test - Boost Bottle

[andyinchville1]

HI All,

Lots of good and interesting information being tossed around here....Thanks!

Concerning the vapor lock issue, I think that seems to have resolved itself...Vapor lock in a fuel line is definitely not a good thing BUT vapor in a boost bottle IS....i.e. you really don't want the fuel vapor in the boost bottle or the line leading to the boost bottle to
to condense out and reform liquid gasoline....If it does....you will have problems.

With that in mind, I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to evaluate using different different materials in the making of a boost bottle and possibly thinking of better locating such a boost bottle....Basically, since we don't want the vapor to condense into liquid gasoline we have to ensure that the air / fuel mix in the bottle stays hot enough so that this does not happen....That would seem to imply that the bottle be located near a heat source (engine or exhaust) and be made of a material that would readily accept the heat from the heat source (in this scenario possibly a metal would be best since metals tend to conduct heat better....I am not sure which is best but in computer heat sinks copper seems to be the metal of choice and aluminum follows as a second).....I am not certain that a good heat sink make for a good heat absorber (unless directly connected to the heat source) BUT following this line of thought maybe a hard metal line leading to the boost bottle would be good too...possibly even going so far as to insulate said metal line and bottle? (I realize that most riding is done in moderate temps so possibly condensation of fuel is not likely?....But then again I do recall a thread in another forum where the user had a bottle with liquid gasoline in it.....)

On the flip side, if we assume that the air/fuel mix is warm enough to stay a vapor for a short period of time....then we need to ensure that the boost bottle and tubing does not lose enough heat to promote condensing the air / fuel mixture into a liquid....In this case
(assuming a cold outside temp), a bottle made of something with an insulating quality
would be beneficial....Perhaps a "foamed" plastic of sorts would be good here (fuel resistant of course)..again possible insulating the line and bottle may be a good idea?

Overall, some of the above thoughts maybe be a little "over kill" in most cases BUT ultimately we have to keep things a vapor for things to work well as far as boost bottles are concerned....Has anybody had condensation issues (i.e. air / fuel vapor turning back into liquid gasoline)?....If so how cold out was it or what were the circumstances around it happening?

As cold as it is out there recently we should have some good test weather! Brrrrrrrr

Andrew

 

[dave1490]

HI All,

Lots of good and interesting information being tossed around here....Thanks!

Concerning the vapor lock issue, I think that seems to have resolved itself...Vapor lock in a fuel line is definitely not a good thing BUT vapor in a boost bottle IS....i.e. you really don't want the fuel vapor in the boost bottle or the line leading to the boost bottle to
to condense out and reform liquid gasoline....If it does....you will have problems.

With that in mind, I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to evaluate using different different materials in the making of a boost bottle and possibly thinking of better locating such a boost bottle....Basically, since we don't want the vapor to condense into liquid gasoline we have to ensure that the air / fuel mix in the bottle stays hot enough so that this does not happen....That would seem to imply that the bottle be located near a heat source (engine or exhaust) and be made of a material that would readily accept the heat from the heat source (in this scenario possibly a metal would be best since metals tend to conduct heat better....I am not sure which is best but in computer heat sinks copper seems to be the metal of choice and aluminum follows as a second).....I am not certain that a good heat sink make for a good heat absorber (unless directly connected to the heat source) BUT following this line of thought maybe a hard metal line leading to the boost bottle would be good too...possibly even going so far as to insulate said metal line and bottle? (I realize that most riding is done in moderate temps so possibly condensation of fuel is not likely?....But then again I do recall a thread in another forum where the user had a bottle with liquid gasoline in it.....)

On the flip side, if we assume that the air/fuel mix is warm enough to stay a vapor for a short period of time....then we need to ensure that the boost bottle and tubing does not lose enough heat to promote condensing the air / fuel mixture into a liquid....In this case
(assuming a cold outside temp), a bottle made of something with an insulating quality
would be beneficial....Perhaps a "foamed" plastic of sorts would be good here (fuel resistant of course)..again possible insulating the line and bottle may be a good idea?

Overall, some of the above thoughts maybe be a little "over kill" in most cases BUT ultimately we have to keep things a vapor for things to work well as far as boost bottles are concerned....Has anybody had condensation issues (i.e. air / fuel vapor turning back into liquid gasoline)?....If so how cold out was it or what were the circumstances around it happening?

As cold as it is out there recently we should have some good test weather! Brrrrrrrr

Andrew

my 2 cents worth

first lets look at the real world application off this:
vapor lock is irelivant {your storing vapors to start with}and will never get hot enough with wind at 30mph{this is not under the hood}
a {plastic} bottel is irelivent the heat will never got up the plastic hose{which is a bad conductor of heat}to reach the bottel anyway even if it was metal{and that,s in the wind also}
i do believe that the hose lenght does make a differance{it,s a sealed system}that i believe doesnt start at the nippel in the intake but at the actual piston face.which means those cc,s have to be included.
as for the guy that whant,s to drill out his carb-moveing the clip on the needel 1 up or down will adjust the opening by .002 that,s 2 thou if you want to drill it out in 5 thou attemps good luck.


ps i did see that guy with liquid in his line and thought what the f***.wait till he try,s to start it and suck,s all that raw fule in.and find,s that it,s flooded

 

[Large Filipino]

I got a yellow boost bottle too! I think that is awesome.

I thought about the displacement and how the hose adds to it so I replaced it with automotive fuel line hose for more durability but I find now that the automotive fuel line hose has a smaller diameter hole.
So that would mean like the same size hose would have a lower displacement compared to that clear hose.
That would also mean that my boost bottle may just be pretty dang spot on!
I think that is truly awesome.
I'm a true blue believer in boost bottles. The change in my engine was like night and day. It's not even a performance thing. Your right,Norman. Want more power get a motorcycle. But it's a SMOOOTH thing. It's a "wow,that guy is cool" thing. Without that bottle you gotta peddle more to get your engine singing. With the bottle,no kidding man,two cranks of the peddle and I'm moving smooth.
Oh did I mention that smooth is cool?
And all those people that see the boost sticker asking me if this thing has NOS. I tell them "yea."

 

[Mogyver69]

I got a yellow boost bottle too! I think that is awesome.

I thought about the displacement and how the hose adds to it so I replaced it with automotive fuel line hose for more durability but I find now that the automotive fuel line hose has a smaller diameter hole.
So that would mean like the same size hose would have a lower displacement compared to that clear hose.
That would also mean that my boost bottle may just be pretty dang spot on!
I think that is truly awesome.
I'm a true blue believer in boost bottles. The change in my engine was like night and day. It's not even a performance thing. Your right,Norman. Want more power get a motorcycle. But it's a SMOOOTH thing. It's a "wow,that guy is cool" thing. Without that bottle you gotta peddle more to get your engine singing. With the bottle,no kidding man,two cranks of the peddle and I'm moving smooth.
Oh did I mention that smooth is cool?
And all those people that see the boost sticker asking me if this thing has NOS. I tell them "yea."

Hey Large Filipino, I just wanted to say thanks for pointing out that our kits do work. Ive been feeling slightly attacked by Norman over there. He's put me on the defensive quite a bit lately. We do our best to sell a quality part. We are always welcome to positive critism. If theres ideas you guys out there have that would help to make our kits work more effient let us no. Thanks again, Keith

 

[Large Filipino]

hehehe!

I'm totally looking out for a tuned pipe. Something bolt on for now cause I don't have the welding skills...yet.

I always wondered what the neighborhood kids think of me by now.
I wonder if they have a name for me...

Norm you rule!

And your very welcome,Keith. You definetly sell a quality product.

 

[Easy Rider]

With reviews like these one, I had to buy one! I'm looking forward to testing it with my pipe.

 

[Large Filipino]

I'm thinking too that with the air fuel forces not going back to the carburator or whatever because the boost bottle is giving it a way to go,wouldn't that also mean that your manifold gasket is stressed less?
Less pressure=less stress,right?

mmmmm.....

 

[Mogyver69]

lol

 

[Mogyver69]

I just wanted to let you guys no due to the start of this article Im in the process of doing some more testing of our boost bottle kits. There seams to be a few of you that believe I should be taking into account the length of the hose. So I plan to make a couple new bottles taking into account the hose length. If I find a gain in performance I will consider making some changes. Ill let you know my findings. There will be no recalls. The kits we have now do work fine. But anything we can do to improve them Im not to proud to try. Thanks for all your imputs.

 

[andyinchville1]

HI,

Definitely interested in hearing your test results!....while it really has not been discussed at any great length or in any great detail so far as I am aware, I am wondering if the diameter of the tubing might also play a role in the effectiveness of the bottle as well?..I mean if one were to use an extremely thin tube perhaps the tube would not be able to allow the reverting gases enough room to get into the bottle fast enough therefore negating the value of the bottle to some extent....On the flip side, if the tubing is made too large in diameter would that pose any problems? Just a couple of random thoughts that might be interesting to play with in optimizing things....not that there is anything wrong with our baseline....just trying to tweak things for that last lil bit.

Oh, I know there is another company / person currently working on a reed cage for our HT engines BUT so far my efforts are being concentrated on the tuned intake (without reeds) using a boost bottle....

My thinking is this.....while the reeds are good (probably the best for preventing a reversion wave since it is a physical barrier if everything is working properly) ...I think that reeds won't allow for "ramming" of the air/fuel mixture into the engine as a tuned intake would (operating in much the same way as a tuned pipe for the exhaust "rams" in some extra fuel/air charge into the engine only applied to the intake side of things)....One never puts reeds on the exhaust side! and basically gas flow is gas flow??

Following the example if the tuned expansion chamber for the exhaust, I am wondering if a similar looking pipe could be made for the intake side of things....I have personally never seen this done but would that work?

My intake system would not be that but more or less a "tuned" length of pipe with a carb at the end....the additional length to allow the mixture to gain momentum and ram into the intake....Boost bottle to act as a reversion stopper for improved low and mid range and possibly a lever to shut off the bottle at high speeds to allow for maximum effect of the ramming a high RPMs?

Thanks to Mogyver69 for doing additional tests!

Andrew

Andrew