Mad Scientist Lab test - Boost Bottle

Interesting design.....Variable displacement boost bottle Hmmmm.....

EZ - How well did it work?

Thanks

Andrew
 
I was told my some (so-called) experts that I would feel the difference. It did smooth out the power band but it didn't increase my lap times on my kart which sported a ported 50cc BZM that reved 18,700 rpm. I wish I didn't lose it because I wonder if it works better on lower reving motors.

It was cool to see it work as the motor reved.
 
HI All,

As many of you may know, the boost bottle's purpose is to enhance low to
mid RPM power....the theory behind this can be readily located on the net but in a nutshell, the boost bottle helps low to mid range power by basically smoothing the flow of the air fuel mixture into the carb and preventing it from reverting back into the carb / intake tract when the piston closes off the intake port abruptly.

Much research has been done to determine the optimum size for the bottle
but it seems that the optimal size for the bottle and connections (yes you must include the volume of the fittings and hose which connects actual bottle to the intake manifold) is such that the engine's displacement must be matched to the volume of the bottle/hoses/fittings.

Out of curiosity, I decided to open up my lab equipment (photos attached) to
determine the actual volume of the boost bottle and fittings to see how closely it matches engine displacement.

The bottle I own (yellow item in pic) came from Boost Bottle Industries. It is
Rated as the 70/80 CC kit.

Because the bottle is unvented (only 1 entrance and exit), it would be difficult to pour the liquid (in this case water) out of the bottle (without it spilling and throwing off the measurements) to measure the bottle's volume.....What I did was a 2 step process. First, I filled the bottle only with water. Then I used the hypodermic syringe to extract the water from the bottle and squirt it into the graduated cylinder.

When all was said and done, the bottle itself had a volume of approximately 67 CC.

Next, to measure the volume of the provided fittings, I pushed both hose barbs as far as they would into the supplied tubing.....I filled the entire assembly with water and then poured its contents into the graduated cylinder to measure its volume. This was found to be 17 CC.

In summary, as provided by the factory, the bottle and fittings have a volume of approximately 84 CC....What does this suggest?....the measurements seem to indicate that if one is looking to optimize boost bottle efficiency
(assuming that optimal is exactly matching the engine's displacement) that one would need to run a minimal length of hose....Furthermore, it may be of benefit actually tap another port to the bottom of the bottle (use a nipple along the long edge of the bottle) to minimize hose length when connecting the bottle to the engine manifold. The remaining factory hole could be filled with a bolt of known displacement (of course must be custom made for length for each different engine brand) that can be used to adjust the system volume so that it exactly matches the engines displacement.

Is such accuracy really needed?....well, given the degree of accuracy and engineering required to make an effective tuned pipe / expansion chamber it would seem to suggest that the answer be "yes"....After all, we are basically tuning the intake system so to speak.....a lot of wave theory applies to both intake and exhausts.

Will the boost bottle work as is?.....I have heard more good things than bad but I plan on doing a test of all this when my custom intake manifold is finally done.

Hope this helps all you tinkerers out there!....Comments, questions, and other findings / views are always welcome.

Andrew


I want to ask you to explain your theory of why we should include the length on the hose as part of the cc of the boost bottle. You stated very clearly that we need to include this in our measurements. I started another post yesterday asking the same question but to everyone. How many people agree that the hose should be included with the measurements of the boost bottle? Im not saying one way or another Im asking you and everyone else that visits this thread to respond do you disagree or agree. I will say Ive found many threads thru other forums that disagree with what your saying. Most believe whats important is that you use the correct size hose and fittings as too big or too small can drastically affect how the bottle works. Im curious as to what other people think as well. Thanks
 
Oh and by the way, We are cool Norman. No worrys!!! But I do wanna race. Heads up baby!!! LOL
 
Can I race with you guys? I've only got 46cc so you'll need to give me a big head start.
 
HI Mogyver69,

Concerning the optimal size for the boost bottle I was basically going by a lot of what I had read in other forums.....Scooter forums, moped forums, Motorcycle forums, etc....While, the bottle may not necessarily have to match engine displacement to the exact CC, it would seem that there should be an optimal size somewhere and most people seemed to indicate exact CC including the tube was needed (the bottle need not be an perfect in much the same manner as a tuned pipe need not be perfect (given mounting constraints) BUT the more perfect it is the better off performance will be)...Of course true optimal may also have to consider the original intake runner length and diameter...

Additionally, there was a bit I was reading somewhere (I'll have to try to find it but I think it was an old Hot rod magazine article ( I think by David Vizard (sp?) talking about how to make the optimal intake....they went into how to determine optimal runner lengths, diameters etc.....the bottom line seemed to indicate that a certain runner volume was necessary to achieve optimal performance (in the case of a boost bottle plumbed into the intake tract, the bottle/tube alters the factory intake and resonances for better performance in certain RPM ranges because it alters the overall intake system volume)...

With the article in hand I attempted to make a tuned intake (minus the bottle at first because I wanted to optimize high speed power first then use the bottle to catch the reversion wave at low to mid range)....first test was done here (I can't remember what I titled it but something like 2 foot intake yields performance increase)....so basically, by messing with intake runner lengths, diameters, and volumes, performance can be tailored and increased.....in the case of the 2 foot intake tract....bottom end was great BUT mid and top end suffered (either length too long or diameter too small or combination of both)....I was doing the test with available tubing that proved to be too small in diameter but was the only piping I had available at the time....I have since ordered and gotten larger tubing to help flow (again have to adjust the length of the runner because of the volume change of the larger tubing BUT one can only adjust so much because of wave reflection distance and tuning....like making a tuned exhaust only on the intake side)...

While most people don't go through the trouble of making a new intake tract, benefits can be had....I admit tho' it is easier to simply add a bottle to change the volumes to alter performance characteristics...Given some stock systems this is the easiest way.

Basically in a nutshell, I have been tinkering with intake volume, length, and diameters to see which combo yields the best ramming effect for maximum power production at the top end and then possibly adding the bottle later to reclaim power at low to mid RPMs (theory being smoothing out the reversion pulse at low revs).

Hope this helps clarify.

Andrew
 
Oh while I'm thinking of it, There are some people who feel that boost bottles don't do a thing....My thinking on that is that perhaps their intake system is already optimized from the factory for low to mid range power production.....I.e. since their intake is designed for the low/mid range already there is no benefit to the bottle if there is no reversion pulse to reclaim.

My thought for performance gains for those individuals would be to make an intake tract to optimize the high end power and utilize a bottle to reclaim the low to mid range....

From the sound of the good reports on this forum concerning the boost bottle, it seems
that our factory intake tracts are not optimal for low end / midrange power so that is why the bottle is of benefit (i'm all for maximum low to mid range power so people can gear up for speed! ;-)).

Andrew
 
I replace my bushing with a wrist pin bearing off of my zenoah scooter motor. The stock bushing can't take alot of abuse before they get shot.
 
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