12v though it's actually higher than that being non regulated.What is the best voltage for the loop 12volts or 6volts
?????????????? I think I'll have to back to school, just to keep up with the lips and such.If you use a bridge diode and convert your ac to dc that the coil makes. Put a 5v voltage limiter after that and a 3s lipo charge board. I used 18650 lipos. Runs all your lights with little effort if there led! $5 Diode, 5x for $5voltage limiter, LIPO charge board 3s 2x $5
?????????????? I think I'll have to back to school, just to keep up with the lips and such.
Which coil were you using, the stock one or the aftermarket alleged "12V coil"? This is the one I'll be using.Ther
Your idea will not work with a pb battery. Already tried it! I even custom wound a coil to attempt it after stock coil failed The task as well. Your coil will be 6-7 volts at idle and in the area of 11-15 volts in upper rpms. Now this is in ac values. When you use a bridge diode you will drop volts in the conversion to dc as well. This coil does not produce the current needed to charge a 12v pb. Plus it's heavy to lipo weight. Lipo only needs a 1-3v a cell to charge. @ 5v input most 3s lipo boards love this voltage with maximum charge rates since there limited at 3v each cell as it alternates cells in bursts of 7 to 10 seconds each cell rest goes toward powering the board.
I'm not sure I'm following. If my coil only has one black wire coming off of it, how do I make sure the ignition and accessory coils don't share a ground?12v after market coil. You can't use the magneto coil it has no secondary coils. White and red are soldered at the same point on the mag. White is intended to go to a capacitor for older cdi coils. The "high performance" cdi has a ceramic cap already inside it making white wire useless. The 12v aftermarket coils are only 12volts when your motor is doing 8000rpm lol pretty much. About 6v in the 2500 range. Not like an alternator in a car where it produces a constant voltage any rpm. The light there are intended to run is one like they used for friction generators off the tire. Its a 6v incandescent lamp "not frame grounded" bobber type light. If you use a grounded light the primary coil with short and you bike won't run since your primary and secondary will share a common ground point which will always be opposite direction charges in ac form since the North and South of the magnet is passing by each coil at a different time. I have put light kits and to charge High power servo battries on a few 2storke 1/5 scale rc's and over the years to get more run time lol "few meaning lost count" but these bike motors are the same thing pretty much. Hope it helps some. The main thing most people can't understand and why there coils never work or there bike wont run is the secondary coil needs to be 100% isolated closed loop circuit after the lead leaves the case and the line wire off the coil. Nothing in the light system can share a common frame mounted ground Period! Or your primary with short! Think of it as taking two batteries and touching there +to- and -to+ creating a short. Same idea just in ac current form!