Magneto voltage

This should help many in the forum with this guy! Pathological liar vs a compulsive liar You pick which best suits him best! Maybe a mix of both! LOL like many before me I think he is a joke to!​





Pathological liar: A liar lies incessantly to get their way

Pathological liar: A liar lies incessantly to get their way


Below are the differences or symptoms between compulsive and pathological liars.

  • Pathological liar: A liar lies incessantly to get their way and does so with little awareness.
    • It is viewed as a coping mechanism developed in early childhood and is often associated with some other type of mental health disorder like an antisocial personality disorder. It could be that they lie to avoid something traumatic that happened in their lives, such as abuse, or the condition may be genetic.
    • When it comes to pathological liars, it is observed that people who have an antisocial personality disorder (APD) and narcissistic personality disorder (NPD) indulge in lying.
    • A pathological liar is often goal-oriented (i.e., focused, one tells lies to get their way).
    • They have very little regard or respect for the rights and feelings of others.
    • They are often considered manipulative and cunning.
    • They create extravagant stories that may be maintained or tweaked over time, and they often believe their own lies or have a weak grip on reality.
    • Unlike the compulsive liar, pathological liars are near impossible to catch in the act. These people are excellent liars because they lie constantly and make stories up unnecessarily, and often, it becomes extremely difficult to distinguish the truth from false statements.
    • Pathological liars know how to be confident while lying and use their pathological lying trait as a defense mechanism (e.g. they fix their gaze upon you rather than looking away).
    • Some of the symptoms of a pathological liar are: they lie to gain something, they exaggerate things, they keep on changing their stories, and they live in a false sense of ‘reality.’ If confronted, they act defensive and never admit that they are liars. Lastly, they hold no value for truth.
  • Compulsive liar: A liar who lies out of habit.
    • Compulsive liars bend the truth about everything, large or small. For a compulsive liar, telling the truth is very awkward and uncomfortable, while lying feels right.
    • Compulsive lying is usually thought to develop in early childhood, due to being placed in an environment where lying was necessary and routine.
    • A lot of them find it easy to avoid confrontations with truth, hence they stick to lying.
    • Compulsive liars may or may not experience a mental disorder. Usually, it is observed that people with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), bipolar disorder, and borderline personality disorder resort to lying compulsively.
    • Compulsive liars are not overly manipulative and cunning (see, Pathological Liar), rather they simply lie out of habit, which is an automatic response that is hard to break and one that takes its toll on a relationship.
    • Compulsive liars lie because of several reasons. However, it may always be easy to find out if they are lying because their stories usually do not add up.
    • They are also obvious and display the classic lying behaviors, such as avoiding eye contact, breaking out into a sweat, and tripping over their words or rambling.
    • They often lie for no clear reason, and sometimes, for no real benefit, they make lies up more spontaneously, don’t do much thinking, and prefer to tell the sorts of lies that they think people want to hear.
    • They know the difference between reality and lies.
    • They are more likely to admit to lying when confronted, though this might not stop them from continuing to lie.
The success of the treatment depends upon whether the person actually agrees that they are a ‘compulsive liar’ or a ‘pathological liar.’ The treatment options may include:

  • Psychotherapy
  • Repeated counseling
  • Antipsychotic medications
  • Family support goes a long way in overcoming this habit too, along with the treatment.
The treatment options may sometimes be used in combination, depending on the underlying psychiatric condition.
Whos the liar here? you said, I was fully backed by Align for 6 years while I flew in the 90s with nitro, and also stated, 44 first place titles and 12 second place wins on recored 1990 to 1996. 2003 i also flew one of the first fly bar less nitro 800s 3d runs on display at the world finals at the 1/4 scale jet powered finals as part of the show in Finland.
Which is funny since Align didn't even have a team then or a flybarless bird in 03,
After the successful introduction of T-Rex 450X HDE R/C helicopter, Align released the ground breaking T-Rex 450XL CCPM R/C helicopter in July of 2004. With the uncommon CCPM mixing system over the traditional HDE mechanical mixing, the T-Rex 450XL quickly became Align's first best seller. YOU ARE FULL OF s**t!
 
If you charge cells individually through the balance leads you can charge higher voltage packs at much lower voltage. I believe that's what's going on here and for short I'd say they are both right.
 
About Nominal Voltages
I thought (mistakenly) that this was common knowledge, but after a handful of emails on the topic, it was clear I needed to clarify what nominal voltage is.

Nominal voltage is the default, resting voltage of a battery pack. This is how the battery industry has decided to discuss and compare batteries. It is not, however, the full charge voltage of the cell. LiPo batteries are fully charged when they reach 4.2v/cell, and their minimum safe charge, 3.7v is pretty much in the middle, and that is the nominal charge of the cell.

Q: Why do we use voltage, and not capacity, to determine how charged a battery is?

A:The reason we use voltage to determine the charge level of a battery stems from our difficulty in measuring capacity. Voltage is simple to measure — if you've ever used a voltmeter to measure a AA battery, you understand how trivial it is to measure voltage.

Capacity, however, is nearly impossible to measure accurately. We can measure how much energy is going into a battery (at least somewhat accurately), but we can't measure how much is actually in the battery.

Think of it like beakers of water. For voltage, the beaker is transparent, and we can easily see the amount of water in the beaker in the same way we can measure voltage whenever we like. On the other hand, we have the beaker representing capacity, and it's opaque — we can't see through it, and so the only way to know how much is inside is to empty it and measure the water (energy) as it's leaving the beaker (battery).

Because amperage and voltage are intertwined, as we will discuss later in detail, the voltage of a battery does correlate, approximately, to the capacity left in the battery, and while there are times when the voltage can deceive you, in general, it's okay to rely on voltage as our primary measure of how full a battery is.

This question was asked by Donald via email, and made complete sense to include my answer to him on the guide. Thanks, Donald!

Proper Care & Treatment: Charging

It's important to use a LiPo compatible charger for LiPos. As I said in the Introduction, LiPo batteries require specialized care. They charge using a system called CC/CV charging. It stands for Constant Current / Constant Voltage. Basically, the charger will keep the current, or charge rate, constant until the battery reaches its peak voltage (4.2v per cell in a battery pack). Then it will maintain that voltage, while reducing the current. On the other hand, NiMH and NiCd batteries charge best using a pulse charging method. Charging a LiPo battery in this way can have damaging effects, so it's important to have a LiPo-compatible charger.

Simply put what all this states is that you CANNOT charge a 3cell lipo pack when as I originally said you only have 3-6w at 5v, just because this guy says his works doesn't mean it's right or going to last! All he's doing is maintaining a dead state of charge with low draw lights it's far from the correct way to do this. Research and a better understanding goes along way and unfortunately eludes some.
 
The illusion of INFORMATION is far more dangerous than IGNORANCE. There I said it... (carryon) also, To LISTEN is to HEAR more than what is being SAID. just sayin
 
I refuse to be apart of some argument with some internet troll.

18650 lipo:
(Panasonic) 2200 mAh at 4a .5 c burst rate look up the tech data on this lipo. Charge rate 3volts @ .02mAh/60 minutes. Which is 1/4 of storage filled per hour of 2200 with an error of 5%, Max charge rate 3volts @ 3.4mAh/60 minutes which fills 100% of its storage in 1 hour with an error of 5%

Coil :
(BT Motor Sports) Based on no info and its 560 ohms to size. The coil has to be in the ballpark of 3750 Turns of wire roughly @ 30awg wire spun onto it. If you can do simple math this coil produces 10 volts at 1.4 mAh. On average in a rpm range of 2000 to 4000.

Bridge diode:
The (Fairchild) .25 watt rated 3% error bridge diode has a lose of .45% in its function.

The buck down converter made by (Texas insterments) takes a range of 5v to 36v and has an output of 5volts dc @ 3amps at 100% continuous max draw of 2.3 amps @ 5volts also has a lose of .37% @ 5v 3amps output without a draw.

Charging board
(No name China Amazon lipo board) 3s lipo inline tender board. Max input of 9 volts @ 1 mAh recommended 5v @ 2.8mAH minimum working voltage of 3v @.01mAh. Has a 4.10volt cutoff charging voltage and a 3volt cell minimum discharge voltage. Can fully charge 3 cells @ 2500Mah of storage at 5a per 160 minutes at an input of 5v@ 2 amps.

Lights: they can run 326 minutes (5hours 25 minutes)off the 3 lipo cells I have made my pack from. With no outside forces influencing its storage by means of charging. That is .6427% of storage lose per minute of use from the packs total storage with 5% error of max storage achieved from charging.

Charging:
Your able to charge the the packs 2200 storage at a rate of .4352% per minute @ the 5v 2amps. From the bikes components

This means if you used your lights non stop for 667 minutes ( 11.1166 hours) your batteries will be at zero% of usable storage no longer able to power your lights. or you would exceed 3 volt cutoff limits So let me know when you ride your motorized bike 11.1166 hours with you lights on and then you can cry about my system then. You wanted math and fact there it is! Btw if you did run your bike for 11.1166 hours and your lights die. Just ride it with the lights off for 2.6 hours and the pack is now fully charged!

This system has been shown on YouTube by a few people and such as well! Hope it helps someone out!
Don't use that crap Yellow coil it shares your coils magneto common ground! The black one with the light has a much better stable output that will not interfere with your magneto and is self isolated. It can run the head lamp on its own zero issues at full brightness!




Question: Do your run your lights in the daytime too?
 
What? Are you talking about? Is that sStreet Ryderz guy still raging.... I hit ignore account for him 5 weeks ago lol... He follows me around on other forums as well trolling stuffi say and a few other people. Hope he beats his mental illnesses! He tried to tell me I didn't have a 20mm carb setup either month ago on the forum cause he's a big shot that knows everything. my responce: yet he still claimed its impossible lol!

Funny part is everything listed above on this light setup. I have used for almost 5 months without charging once for over 300 miles of night riding. So lol he can bash it all he wants!

Dude you're a GOOF! Never claimed majority of that s**t you listed, I don't go on any other forums! And I don't have pictures or videos hell news to me ? LOL , WHO"S THE BUTT HURT TROLL? Maybe instead of outright lying and getting caught in it you could learn something, but I doubt that will ever happen since common sense and the ability to use something so simple as a search function elude you!
 
As proud as Care Bear is about his lighting & charging system. Care Bear's lighting & charging system is flawed.
If Care Bare wanted lights in the day and night he would have to start plugging in and charging his batteries.
So what's the point of having a system like his?
At some point it will run out of juice and have to be ridden with the lights off to recharge the battery. Or plug it in.
Most people with a CG M/B use rechargeable LIon batteries Who cares if ya gotta charge em while your in bed?

The point is to be legal in the eyes of the law.
A M/B should have it's lights on in the day and night while riding. Just like a M/C, Scooter or Moped it's the law.

I don't know anyone who rides for 4 hours or more Except me. :LOL:

I gotta Whizzer M/B with a 8 coil 85w stator supporting a 12v 1.3ah battery for lights & stuff
 
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Rechargeable Lion batteries would be the same thing. Who cares if ya gotta charge em while your in bed.
I think my lighting solution is much more effective at a really reasonable cost...It recharges either by wall plug, USB into computer, or Solar Power...I only charged them once through the wall plug when i first started using them a couple of years ago...The sun has been doing it ever since...lol...Built in horn and will even charge your mobile phone as well...lol...DAMIEN

Left bottom "square" marked video, On the site below, shows it in action, also has unconditional guarantee with no expiration dates.

 
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