Hydraulics are very nice. In that, they're self-adjusting unlike mechanical. They do offer shorter stopping distances as well. The one thing I do caution people who do get them and set them is it's about balance. You want to shorten the stopping distance as much as possible while avoiding wheel lock. Locked wheels mean skids. As a kid coaster brake skids were fun at 10-15 mph. At 35+ mph a skid can mean a trip to the hospital.
I didn't think pics would even be interesting in this case...They still look like regular, everyday, calipers, and they are still in basic black like my manual ones, Nothing to write home about...lol...No snazzy colours, no radical redesign that makes it look overwhelming different, etc...lol...Just an area in the caliper that holds the oil where the Allan Head pad adjuster used to be...lol.
Is the 2 divots in the red center part of caliper for a spanner wrench to adjust/set brake shoe gap with?
I don't think they are anymore aggressive looking than my other ones were...lol...I also have at least three other rotor sets in stock here at home...160mm for the fronts and 203mm for the rears.
Negative...it's printed right on them to not even think of touching that red center...lol.
Yeah you run the same rotor sizes as I do or vice versa, however you wanna look at it. I had a 180 on the front for awhile & thought/felt it was a little much for my liking. I like the 160/203 combo especially if you set your brake bias on a single pull lever.
So if you set them up a little too tight @the 1st adjustment, do you got to bleed them off, like a automotive type caliper? To say reset/adjust them.
Lmao smart azz, but yes I'll attend your mono-tone class tonight!!!
I read your post, maybe not 100% thoroughly, but I was just curious on adjustment if you were to set them up a little tight. I'm curious too, cause I might get me a set at that price. Lmao my old got to adjustment on mechanical calipers is the old cereal box on each side of rotor.