Milled head - WOW!

[RdKryton]

Hal
Do you have a set of ball end long reach metric allen wrenches? I got my set at Harbor Freight. With the tank off you can torque the head without loosening the engine mounting nuts. If you only have a foot pound torque wrench divide the inch pound settings by 12 but you probably knew that already. I personally would not guess when torquing the head but that's just me.


Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal & Oscar,

Thrilled you like my work. It would be better if torqued, but I have many times [only on my personal motors] used the "touch" approach. In fact the NE motor that logged 68 MPH on the "Roller Road" at Portland, IN in 2005 had just had the head removed, the copper gasket "softened" with a small torch, and then re connected without a torque wrench. However after racing motorcycles for almost 15 years, I often found myself in a motel room in a new town, rebuilding race motors in the middle of the night. In the beginning I stripped a lot of aluminum threads, but over time you develope the "touch" for working with aluminum.

I will tell you the 10 MM @ 210 inch pounds is actually a heavy number [17.5 foot pounds] so always re-tighten the two 10 MM bolts after you complete the 8 MM.

Here is the risk, it is possible to over tighten the 8 MM bolts and remove threads from the cylinder, especially the 3 towards the rear of the motor. Anyway be careful, and if the head warps, it can be re-leveled.

Have fun,

 

[Hal the Elder]

Allen Wrenches:

The Allen Wrenches I used to remove the 8mm and 10mm head bolts were not the long-reach ball-end types, so I guess I'll have to get a set and use 'em with my 1/2" drive Craftsman 'foot-pound-reading' torque wrench, and convert to get inch-pounds.

OK...so what is the torque spec for an NE head?

Thanks...
HAL

 

[RdKryton]

These are the Allen Wrenches I bought.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94534
The price was right too.

Jim

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey Jim:

I'll get me a set, too!

I can use a 1/2"-3/8" drive adapter on my Craftsman torque wrench and convert to inch-pounds.

Thanks for the pic!

HAL

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal,

8 MM bolts 180 inch pounds [15 foot pounds]

10 MM bolts 210 inch pounds [17.5 foot pounds]


Have fun,

 

[go-rebels]

I wouldn't mind removing the gas tank, as I've done it before, but I wouldn't want to have to shift the engine in the frame to do the job.

Thanks...
HAL

I just installed a custom "high fin" cast head from Quenton and needed to move the motor just a little to get better access to the head bolts. It's really quite easy and worth the little effort and, as a benefit, you'll also minimize the liklehood of scratching the paint on the frame above the head.

Loosen the nut (bolt?) at the bottom of the engine using a 14mm wrench. Then use a small 12mm open end wrench to capture the head of the bolt at the rear of the engine near the drive belt. Use a 14mm socket to loosen the nut attaching the small bent sheet metal bracket to the frame. That will allow you to move the top of the entire motor +/- 1/8" side to side and will give you enough play to get better access to the cylinder head bolts. You don't need to loosen the mount at the front of the engine.

I can loosen both bolts in less than 10 seconds.

 

[jbcruisin]

Well aren't you Davis brothers full of info. Thanks a lot. I just bought a set of those wrenches for next time head removal is necessary. That is what makes this forum great!!
Jay

 

[Hal the Elder]

I find that to get access to the head bolts under the frame tubes, I 'll have to shift the engine THREE INCHES to the left or OVER THREE INCHES to the right.

I measured it.

Hal

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Me too, Hal. We must have the same bike.

I didn't wanna do it; I had to loosen the engine mounts and shift the engine several inches to remove that ONE bolt.

Of course, now that it's shifted it''ll be easier to torque down the head.