Mongoose Malus BBR - 2 stroke / Sick Bike - shift kit

It sounds like your bottom bracket cartridge or spindle is to short. If you email Jim at sickbikeparts and tell him what you have and what you're doing he will make sure you get the right part. Sickbikeparts is very knowledgeable And is very quick to respond. They have excellent customer service and know what they are doing and talking about.
Hi GreasyChris , yes , the bracket cartridge SickBikes sent is way too short @ 68 x 131 cartridge , I had e-mails with Jim@SickBikes before I ordered the kit , he set me up on what to order for the big tire bike , as far as adding a longer 5/8 x 8 inch jack shaft and extra collar ------------ the bracket on the Mongoose is 112 wide and the width of the Mongoose crank shaft is 178 , I e-mailed Jim yesterday , he e-mailed me back during the night and said I can use the stock cartridge on the Mongoose -------- but I didn't mention to him , yet , that I have a pull start cover that I would like to use and not sure , yet , but think I will need a longer crankshaft for the pedals to clear the starter cover , like on my other E-Zip build ---- I have heard the pull start can be a problem as far as the rope not retracting , but since I have it , I would like to incorporate it in and try it for myself
 
Since this is a motorized bike forum , let me show you guys one of my other motorized 2 wheeled toys , it is pretty rare as I have it for 10 years and have never seen another one out there , 1972 Honda XL250 with a Missile Engineering Big Tire cloned kit , the engine is a MotorSport and came that way from the factory , it was the last year they put MotorSport engines in the XLs , they detuned the engine the following year , I ragged it a little too hard and stripped the out put shaft , gathered up all the new OEM parts to replace the shaft , just have not gotten around to it --I put a lot of love into this one , had the hubs bored for oversize bearings and better seals then what it came with , re-drilled the rims to relocate the valve stems and added extension hoses to make air filling easier , welded in the speedo drive to the hub and got the speedo working , the bike was a barn find , it had not moved since 1976 and all the lights had been removed , I found all the blinkers , tail light and head light and got it back to "street legal " , LOL --technically it isn't street legal with those tires , but the vin # says it is , it has registration and a title , so it's back road legal and I have never been stopped on it , yet

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Thanks , cool build there ^^^^ ------ I have seen people's shift kit build videos , where they shifted two gears at a time , as one gear is too little of a difference --- the Malus is a 7 speed , figure 1/3/5/7 , it will be a 4 speed in reality

Funny you brought up about the spring seat post , I just had to take on off my wife's Schwinn as she wanted the seat lower and the shock prevented it from going any lower , her legs must have shrunk , cause it was OK last year

So what you think is real the purpose of all the holes in the rims with the tube's inner flap sticking thru , was thinking it is a form of shock absorption , or could just be a weight thing , but you really ain't talking much weight there
If you use the 1,3,5,7 method on a 7 speed 28-14 freewheel then the cogs are 28,22,18,14 a 644 jumps. Which isn't bad for widening the range between the ratios.

However you still have a cross chaining issue along with the fact the chain is being spread over two sprockets instead of one when shifting. This is going to cause your chain and sprockets to wear out a lot faster.

The advantages to the four speed freewheel is the 34t will allow a larger sprocket 16t to to be the high gear while keeping the same reduction range. You'd have to change the larger sprocket on the jack shaft to a smaller one. Also because the 16t is in the fourth position on the freewheel it'll mean the high gear the 16t is in a direct line with chainring. Unlike the 1,3,5,7 method where the smaller 14t sprocket is in the seventh position on the freewheel thus creating lateral stress due to cross chaining.

I personally like using a Shimano HG71 chain.
 
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Hi GreasyChris , yes , the bracket cartridge SickBikes sent is way too short @ 68 x 131 cartridge , I had e-mails with Jim@SickBikes before I ordered the kit , he set me up on what to order for the big tire bike , as far as adding a longer 5/8 x 8 inch jack shaft and extra collar ------------ the bracket on the Mongoose is 112 wide and the width of the Mongoose crank shaft is 178 , I e-mailed Jim yesterday , he e-mailed me back during the night and said I can use the stock cartridge on the Mongoose -------- but I didn't mention to him , yet , that I have a pull start cover that I would like to use and not sure , yet , but think I will need a longer crankshaft for the pedals to clear the starter cover , like on my other E-Zip build ---- I have heard the pull start can be a problem as far as the rope not retracting , but since I have it , I would like to incorporate it in and try it for myself
The pull start is going to give you problems with clearance also they break very easily and don't last. Your life will be easier if you just go without the pullstart. That Honda you posted is really cool. I run a jackshaft on 1 of my bikes. I use a combination of the sickbike kit and the Chinese kit and some custom made stuff. I also run an internal geared 3 speed sturmey archer rs-rk3 hub. Using an internal hub makes the chain angles alot better. Last summer my bike topped out at 57mph. Last weekend I replaced the engine with a 73cc Minarelli hybrid. Just waiting for some nice weather this Sunday to get it all tuned and dialed in. If everything goes well it'll top out in the mid 60's.
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'Chris , That is a cool looking bike , I going to leave the 57mph to you , LOL --- back in the day I was into speed , in high school I had a 1972 Kawasaki 500 triple 2 stroker , guy pulled out in front of me , hit him at 70mph , did a couple of weeks in the hospital that time
 
Ordered a new bracket cartridge from Sick Bike , the bearings in there now are not smooth , had read where some Mongoose owners found metal shaving in the bracket from production , started to just clean them up and re-grease then , since I was right there might as well go new --- Jim@SickBike told me the stock bracket cartridge on a big tire bike will allow room for a pull start , already have the pull start and going to give it a shot

started putting all the controls on the handle bar , got a double brake lever for the right side , guess I am going to move the twist shifter on the left hand upside down, on my E-Zip I have a lever/dial type , can shift it with my thumb without taking my hand off the bar --- kind of lucky to have a flea market 1 mile from my house and there is a bike guy , he has a lot of stuff , Saturday going to see him and see what kind of shifters he has laying around

Unboxed the engine and hope to assembly the engine this weekend , still waiting on some anti-vibration motor mounts to show up

Broke an axle last weekend on my 4 wheeler want to get it changed before Sunday ride with some buddies , so might not get a lot done on the bike this weekend , I am really into 4 wheelers , lucky my buddy owns 440 acres that surround my neighborhood , got a mud park going on ---- this is short video of my 2000TRX450SS the pride of my fleet , it took about a year to build , the list of mods is endless , running a 500 sleeved jug with custom built piston , 34% gear reduction , 8 inches of lift , 6 inch stretch , hydraulic/disc brake conversion all wheels , it screams

 
This could be a good mod , hydraulic conversion for a fat tire , just wouldn't want to have three levers , two brakes and one clutch



On my Honda 450 , I converted to hydraulic disc back and front from cable/drum , and have the front hand lever and the footbrake both going to the rear wheel and that set up works good , don't know how it would work out if you had rear and front brakes on the same lever , you would have to have a meter valve to adjust the pressure so the front would be a little less , a mod to think about
 
Question on the mongoose build , I moved the 7 speed twist shifter from the right hand to the left hand , it is upside down now , any ideas of the best way to rig a 7 speed shifter to the left hand


called the local auto stores and searched the net for a cross over for the spark plug , none could come up with plug



I put 11 miles on my E-Zip yesterday ---- 32mph is top speed , 22 seems the comfortable cruising speed
 

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Question on the mongoose build , I moved the 7 speed twist shifter from the right hand to the left hand , it is upside down now , any ideas of the best way to rig a 7 speed shifter to the left hand


called the local auto stores and searched the net for a cross over for the spark plug , none could come up with plug



I put 11 miles on my E-Zip yesterday ---- 32mph is top speed , 22 seems the comfortable cruising speed
On my triple chainring shift kit I too placed a 7 position rear twist shifter on the left handlebar it's right beside of the 3 position front trigger shifter.

The shifting all with the left hand will be done like this:

1(1-3) uphill and pulling
2(3-5) around town general use
3(5-7) open road use.

The reduction range is 66.79:1 to 16.25:1

The 7 position shifter is just like your throttle now you twist down to go faster. You twist up to go slower.

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called the local auto stores and searched the net for a cross over for the spark plug , none could come up with plug
The plug you would like to use on the China Girl motors is an NGK-B6HS....you didnt mention what number you wanted to convert from so i have to assume it was the chinese plug that came in the CG kit, number Z-4C or Z-8C series which by the way are total crap plugs...lol...DAMIEN
 
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