Mongoose Malus BBR - 2 stroke / Sick Bike - shift kit

[Fishfiles]

The plug you would like to use on the China Girl motors is an NGK-B6HS....you didnt mention what number you wanted to convert from so i have to assume it was the chinese plug that came in the CG kit, number Z-4C or Z-8C series which by the way are total crap plugs...lol...DAMIEN

Yes , it is the Z8C in my E-Zip ---- Thanks for that cross-over , any idea what the different between a NGK-B6HS like you mentioned and a NGK-BR6HS , I know I have seen R mean resistor , like for block interference for a radio

 

[Fishfiles]

On my triple chainring shift kit I too placed a 7 position rear twist shifter on the left handlebar it's right beside of the 3 position front trigger shifter.

The shifting all with the left hand will be done like this:

1(1-3) uphill and pulling
2(3-5) around town general use
3(5-7) open road use.

The reduction range is 66.79:1 to 16.25:1

The 7 position shifter is just like your throttle now you twist down to go faster. You twist up to go slower.

View attachment 104440

I think that is the way I'll go , upside down --- Thanks

 

[Fishfiles]

The bracket cartridge came in from Sick Bike , the bearings are sealed on both ends ---- on my ATVs when the bearing come sealed I pry one side seal off , clean out the OEM grease and heavily pack my own grease into the new bearing with some grease behind it ------what do you'll think , let it fly like it comes or repack them

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

The bracket cartridge came in from Sick Bike , the bearings are sealed on both ends ---- on my ATVs when the bearing come sealed I pry one side seal off , clean out the OEM grease and heavily pack my own grease into the new bearing with some grease behind it ------what do you'll think , let it fly like it comes or repack them

I'd let it go as is. When you start prying factory seals out, you're never going to get the seal as tight as a specialized factory machine would.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

any idea what the different between a NGK-B6HS like you mentioned and a NGK-BR6HS , I know I have seen R mean resistor , like for block interference for a radio

That would be correct...I have noticed that some in the forum have had difficulties finding just the plain B6HS...it is quite alright to use NGK-BR6HS...Even if you dont have a radio on your China Girl...Not as if you would hear it anyways...lol...DAMIEN

 

[Fishfiles]

Looks like the Sick bike shift kit is going to stop me from using the upgrade aluminum head , and I cut the top mount off the bracket to be able to squeeze the engine in , going to have to do some welding or bolting up of a redesigned upper mount , it took a lot o drilling and grinding for the shift bracket to bolt up , the bolt holes were too small ---

the front motor mount stud just miss to fitting the frame by 1/2 a hole , in the pic you see one stud in the engine , the other side don't make it

as it is in the second pic I could squeeze the upgrade head in , but when I use the front motor mount adaptor plate the short head just barely clears the upper frame tube

 

[Fishfiles]

The jack shaft sprocket is 17 tooth and hits the tire , it is a 5/8 bore with 3/16 key way , not really sure what the chain size is , maybe classified as 1/8 inch ? it is not marked or in the description by Sick Bikes , looking to go smaller on the sprocket to clear the wheel , any ideas on what sprocket chainsize I would need and what ratio change would I see by dropping a couple of teeth

 

[Chainlube]

The jack shaft sprocket is 17 tooth and hits the tire , it is a 5/8 bore with 3/16 key way , not really sure what the chain size is , maybe classified as 1/8 inch ? it is not marked or in the description by Sick Bikes , looking to go smaller on the sprocket to clear the wheel , any ideas on what sprocket chainsize I would need and what ratio change would I see by dropping a couple of teeth

To correct your issues, you will need an offset intake and a spacer between the jack shaft bracket and seat post. This will move your engine forward the thickness of the the spacer.

Small framed and fat tires doesn't leave you with much room.

 

[Fishfiles]

To correct your issues, you will need an offset intake and a spacer between the jack shaft bracket and seat post. This will move your engine forward the thickness of the the spacer.

Small framed and fat tires doesn't leave you with much room.

the engine can't go any farther forward , the head hits the frame , might have to loose the shift kit if anything , I can use the upgraded head if I loose the shift kit , Jim suggest moving the tire back if possible , but it is a drop load rear mount , I was thinking about a slightly smaller tire


I think I read where , Jim from Sick Bike told me every tooth smaller on the rear sprocket of the jack shaft is about 10% , if I could find maybe a 15 tooth , but there are not many sprockets out there with 415 chain which is also called #42 or 3 1/6

 

[Chainlube]

I was thinking of a smaller tire, but why buy a fat tire bike then, right? It still will be loads o' fun without the shift kit.

Actually 2-2.50 tires would be better for going faster than those big ones. If you were to get it up near 50, there would be quite a bit of tire vibration.