more nonsense on the whizzer

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by uncle_punk13, Aug 11, 2007.

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  1. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Hey all,
    I've started going back through the Whizzer. I re-set everything on the carb back to 'zero' and went from there. I was cruisin around the neighborhood on it for a few hours, and had it topped out at 45 M.P.H. There is a lack of power that feels like the head is not seating properly for sealing...This coupled with the fact that there is a bit of seepage from the head makes me think it's perhaps warped. I'll take it into work in a couple of weeks and touch it on the lapping plate to see if there are any high/low spots indicating warpage.
    The heads on these are still a little on the small side, with very small/short cooling fins. There's also a very odd wahser arrangement set up on the head and we believe these to be not locking down properly, allowing the head to move.
    I believe I would like to attempt to design and machine a new head from solid stock. I'm thinking a radial fin design, with thicker/taller/more fins for better surface/cooling area... Mostly for fun, but also to see if this helps any with the head and heat issues.
    I'll be working at my old job in the aerospace machining industry starting next week, so I'll have access to all the C.N.C. mills (4th axis, rotary tables, etc.), and the people who are better programmers than I.
    It won't be done this month or anything, but I'm thinking throughout the winter...:cool:
    I'm also thinking, that I'll machine a few other parts, such as the deflector piece that goes between the carb and intake port machined from aluminum, and port matched for better flow.
    I'm also considering getting a stock engine kit (whizzer), to put on the '50 dx, and using this other engine on my other project, which would not be eligible for MB.c as it is a 1948 CZ 125 b frame, albion 3-speed transmission, late 50's Daimler moped front wheelset, Whizzer hydraulic forks, Honda 90 swing arm suspended with a Cushman truckster half leaf spring, honda 90 rear wheelset, andno pedals.
    Well we'll see where it goes and what happens.
    Golly; why, oh why, do I like whizzers so much? Is it the challenge of doing all this oddball stuff with them, and attempting to make long journey's with them? Is it just that they look neat and are very closely related to the earliest of motorized two wheeled devices? I don't know...

  2. gone_fishin

    gone_fishin Guest

    access to CNC!?...what if i said i have an idea for a 4-stroke version of a fully integrated happy-time? after all, winter is on the way ;)

    rif, i completely appreciate the "front line" look at whizzers that you bring to MBc. you bring one down here and we'll go hunting for the local whizzer-dood. i bet we'd meet some cool cats during the adventure, i think he's associated with the "beach barons" or hangs with 'em or something 8)
  3. Whizzer cylinder head

    Hi Rif, If I wanted to do anything to insure sucess with the head, I'd heli-coil the barrel back to 8mm on those critical bolts ESPECIALLY the one above the exhaust manifold. Then you can get equal torque across the head. Then I'd replace the bolts on ex manifold with studs, nuts, and finished with acorns, without the chrome trim. One guy tells me that the intake restrictor material holds heat, and he dropped his carb temp by 50 degrees by using an "isolator" type thick gasket. maybe you know the rest of the tricks.

  4. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    These are some things you and I have talked of, and somew things I gleaned from some of the fellas at the VMBC meet.
    We'll get her there, I'm just takin' my time, and takin' care of other business.
    OOOH! Dinner's burning! Gotta go
  5. Quenton Guenther

    Quenton Guenther Motored Bikes Sponsor

    Hi Rif, Just a few comments concerning Whizzer heads & headbolts. My wife's maroon 2001 just won the "Roller Road Shootout" at Dawson Springs , KY and the motor has over 6000 miles since the head was removed. My 1999 claimed 1st place in the Modified Whizzer class and it also has over 6000 miles logged after the NE kit upgrade. On both motors the bolts were checked & re-torqued after the first 100 miles, and never tightened again. After a close look I found the reason, and recent testing has proven my conclusions. I checked the torque, and all bolts were at 165 inch pounds, however the 2 studs had dropped down to 135 inch pounds. Why did this happen? Was it because of the studs? Although I like head bolts over studs because when torqueing bolts you have more threads in play than with a nut, however the problem was caused by the use of lock washers. It appears when lock washers have been heated many times they lose their spring and become useless. Next I checked the headbolts on a customers bike to find the center rear, and both the 10 MM loose. It took a few close looks to determine why the 10 MM bolts were loose. The results of my tests are as follows: Not using a torque wrench can warp the head, lock washers don't work well with headbolts, no washer under the 10 MM bolts cause the bolt to cup the head bolt shoulder during assembly, removing all washers except the thick flat washers is the correct way to avoid problems. My test heads don't use the two 10 MM bolts, some of my test cylinders use step studs [10 MM to 8 MM] and some have four [2 in each hole] 8MM helicoils installed in the 10 MM bolt holes. Maybe when you start that great new job [some people are really lucky] you can make some thick washers to fit under the larger 10 MM headbolts.
  6. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Thanks for the info! I'm still not really doing anything with it at the moment, other than compiling all this info. To be honest, I've been gearing up for this new job, playing with my new car, and hanging with a new girl...
    I need to get back on track here...
  7. uncle_punk13

    uncle_punk13 Guest

    Fireball 5 Aka Dirty Rat *Beast

    Alright, I'm getting ready to get down to brass tacks with this Whizzer. I've got ideas for intake and exhaust that I'm going to experiment with. I'm not gonna go too far into it, but in remembering and re-reading some stuff about intakes on my slant sixes, and motorcycle talk with some old timers, I'm gonna play. I'l have no cost into it other than my time, and none of this will be a permanent, modification; I can play and learn...
    * family friendly name for the public forum...

    Attached Files:

  8. bill green

    bill green Member

    hi from vancouver wa , use A 10mm1.0 by 8mm1.125 grade 8 stud and grade 8 nuts good to 170 psi compression .Also change 8mm ALLENS to grade 8 but 5mm shorter and delete lock washers .BILL
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2008