Motor chain tension vs bike chain tension?

[Kpi890]

I am struggling with chain tensions on my new build... seems like when I get the engine chain tension just perefect the original bike chain tension has too much slack. Then if I break links on the motor chain to try and adjust I get in between links and it’s either gonna be too tight or too lose. The bike as it is right now runs and rides fine I have my engine chain tension dialed in but the original bike chain tension has too much slack to the point where it’s slapping my wheel when I ride and making noise on the chain guard. I don’t have enough space to brake a link in the bike chain without affecting the motor and causing the wheel to come forward and rub on the frame. I am running a #41 chain on the engine side and I found these half links for it which I thought would work out great! However, it is assembled with a cotter pin style piece of metal and I’m afraid it’s going to get caught up and snag near the drive gear. Just looking for advice on how and if I can use this half link or not? I’ve broken and added links to both chains hoping there would be a happy medium but I cannot find it. Once I get one side where I want it the other side chain isn’t right. Thanks in advance!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Use a chain tensioner pulley whatsit on your pedal chain.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Half links are fine. I point the head in the direction of travel. Also keep it on the side of the chain that faces out.

 

[Kpi890]

Use a chain tensioner pulley whatsit on your pedal chain.

I have been looking to try and find a chain tensioner for that side but can’t seem to find one that will fit in there with the clearance and the chain guard being there... do you have any pictures of one that might work?

 

[Kpi890]

Half links are fine. I point the head in the direction of travel. Also keep it on the side of the chain that faces out.

So you’ve never had any issues with that pin twisting around or anything and wearing/rubbing?

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I have been looking to try and find a chain tensioner for that side but can’t seem to find one that will fit in there with the clearance and the chain guard being there... do you have any pictures of one that might work?

No, no pictures, but I am sure you can make a bracket by bending some flat bar and use the pulley from the kit, since the bottom run of the pedal chain doesn't come under tension like the motor chain does during bump starting etc.

 

[Spare_Parts]

So you’ve never had any issues with that pin twisting around or anything and wearing/rubbing?

Never had any problems.

There are tensioners for fixed gear bikes but I don't know anything other than they exist.

 

[gary55]

View attachment 81768 View attachment 81769 I am struggling with chain tensions on my new build... seems like when I get the engine chain tension just perefect the original bike chain tension has too much slack. Then if I break links on the motor chain to try and adjust I get in between links and it’s either gonna be too tight or too lose. The bike as it is right now runs and rides fine I have my engine chain tension dialed in but the original bike chain tension has too much slack to the point where it’s slapping my wheel when I ride and making noise on the chain guard. I don’t have enough space to brake a link in the bike chain without affecting the motor and causing the wheel to come forward and rub on the frame. I am running a #41 chain on the engine side and I found these half links for it which I thought would work out great! However, it is assembled with a cotter pin style piece of metal and I’m afraid it’s going to get caught up and snag near the drive gear. Just looking for advice on how and if I can use this half link or not? I’ve broken and added links to both chains hoping there would be a happy medium but I cannot find it. Once I get one side where I want it the other side chain isn’t right. Thanks in advance!

Here are some options. The 410 half link would get less wear & tear. If you choose to use the #41 it will have a little trouble getting around the engine sprocket due to the raised portion just below the teeth so I usually put a regular side plate on it, mark it, and then shape the side plates on the half link the same as a normal link on the side touching the gear. Then you have tensioners. View media item 61256View media item 60645View media item 60358

 

[Kpi890]

Here are some options. The 410 half link would get less wear & tear. If you choose to use the #41 it will have a little trouble getting around the engine sprocket due to the raised portion just below the teeth so I usually put a regular side plate on it, mark it, and then shape the side plates on the half link the same as a normal link on the side touching the gear. Then you have tensioners. View media item 61256View media item 60645View media item 60358

I’m running a 41 chain chain because it allows a little more play incase my hub sprocket isn’t perfectly true... however I don’t understand what you mean here by the raised portion just below the teeth? How are you marking and putting a regular side plate on a half link?

 

[Spare_Parts]

The side plates are a little taller on some of the the half links. He is saying to grind down the plates on the half link. I never had to do this.