Motor Mount Metal Fatigue

Timbone

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:33 AM
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
1,098
Location
Louisville, KY
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
Please forgive the twisted pics - I consider it a website issue - but this does tell the tale.

I think making motor mounts is the most fun part of building a motorbike. There are no rules and its success or failure will lead to learning something important about building motorbikes.

KC gave the best tip ever: use U bolt muffler clamps to hold the motor to the frame tubes. Saves a million problems, immediate and down the road.

I've been using these thick pieces of steel angle 4" X 2" with good success. Drill some holes to connect big Grade 8 bolts and lock them down with red Loctite. Very strong.

My piece on the tire shows the piece in theory, while the pic above shows how a small crack can become a major fail. I noticed that the exhaust was shaking at high frequency and I saw a long crack in the metal. Released the mount from the downtube and it literally melted into two right in my hands. No pressure whatsoever - complete fatigue of the metal. (Notice how the crack was no where near a drilled hole. I would expect that.)

I got the idea to go bigger. I found these unistrut angles and hoped to use four of them. I lacked space. My original design was just a hair too tight to make proper fitment. After lots of measuring and configuring, I came up with a hybrid design, using the unistrut angle and the builder's angle with support coming from a 1/4" mild steel adapter plate and a crossmember on top tying the two single prices of angle on the motor.

I ground on the top half of the round fitting part of the muffler spacer so I can lay the adapter plate back as far as possible to get the piece perpendicular to the engine mount studs. Worked well.

The unistrut angles have big 1/2" holes so I cut bushings to cover the motor studs and filled the gaps between the 14mm studs and the 1/2" holes.

Front to back I have: 1) muffler mount; 2) 1/4" adapter plate; 3) builder's angle; 4; unistrut angles 2 pcs; and 8mm engine studs protected by 5/16"x 1/2" bushings.

My first 30 miles have been magnificent. The bend on the builders angle is where I expect any metal failure.

=Timbone=

image.jpeg
 
Is that stuff used for bringing studs together while building? The metal in that stuff probably isn't the best if so, not for vibration at least, maybe use some angle steel... I tried a few different things but only seems like angle steel has the guff to stay whole for motor mounts.
 
The angle I have been using is the thick steel pieces made for framing. They are very clean and smooth and at least 1/8" thick. They are strong, but not crazy hard to drill holes in. I had another one fail a couple of years ago. Super easy to replace.

I am really interested to see how these unistrut angles hold up. They are thick and strong - I can't imagine them failing. What's interesting is that each motor stud locks into its separate angle piece and I tied them together on the top.

So far, so excellent. The bike is flying with very little vibration.
 
The angle I have been using is the thick steel pieces made for framing. They are very clean and smooth and at least 1/8" thick. They are strong, but not crazy hard to drill holes in. I had another one fail a couple of years ago. Super easy to replace.

I am really interested to see how these unistrut angles hold up. They are thick and strong - I can't imagine them failing. What's interesting is that each motor stud locks into its separate angle piece and I tied them together on the top.

So far, so excellent. The bike is flying with very little vibration.
I trust your judgment to pick out a sturdy metal lol, I've just had bad luck I suppose with less sturdy bits.

That set up is close to what I did but without the muffler clamp saddle. I used an angle steel and drilled downward onto the front mount perpendicular to the original mount holes. Put 2 bolts straight though.

The front of the angle that was closer to being parallel with the downtube was anchored to the downtube with basically a u bolt. The prying on the metals I used probably couldn't handle that type if stress while the steel can.

The saddle does make a difference, if you have a really good line up you can pull it off rather well, some bikes though are just awful.
 
Back
Top