I never install kill switch wiring on first start. Too many times it is the culprit. Recheck your wiring, ensure you have fuel in carb. Did you press the "tickle" button 20 times or so?
try this:
1. Check spark plug gap. If you didn't gap your plug or at least check it there's a chance the electrode is smashed against the center electrode from the shipping process. I often just screwed the plug into the engine without checking until I learned the hard way. A 25-32 thousands gap is ok. PUT ONE TABLE SPOON of oil into spark plug cylinder hole. With all of your start attempts, you want some lube in the engine.
2. Check for spark. Remove spark plug wire from spark plug. Pedal bike as fast as you can and then engage clutch. At same time grap the plug cap with your hand. You should feel get a good jolt. Don't try this if you are elderly, have a pacemaker, atrial fibrillation or other known heart problems. If you are healthy, you'll have no problem. I do this all the time...its better than caffeine in the morning.
3. Check for fuel: Disconnect fuel line from carb and turn fuel valve on. Fuel should be trickling from line when valve is turned on. If not, there is your problem which is probably rust clogging the screen filter or valve. You should always flush out/clean a new tank. I like the idea of gravel in the fuel tank shaken and then removed to clean rust.
4. Check for fuel in carb. Some carbs have a drain screw on the float bowl. Turn fuel valve on with everything connected properly (fuel line) and ensure fuel is coming out of the fuel drain on the bowl. It can take quite a while to prime a new carb.
5. Starter fluid: To rule out fuel over spark issues, a shot of ether into the carb is an easy way to make a differential diagnosis-assuming spark plug gap is correct. Have friend spray either into carb (1-2 second burst) and IMMEDIATELY try to start engine. If it fires up, then you have a fuel issue. If not, probably a spark issue unless you got jolted in Step 2 and know for sure.
6. CHOKE: Often on a new engine, you can't just set the choke and forget it for the start process. For example, one of my temperamental engines requires full choke to start it but IMMEDIATELY requires somewhere between 1/4-1/2 choke depending on temperature for it to continue running. This requires almost constant fiddling while pedalling and driving with one hand. If you don't have the ability or balance to drive with one hand while leaning over to fiddle with the carb, then try repeated attempts with slight variations in choke setting.